LS6 Swap 2nd Gen Build + New Tundra

Taking a vote.

the cooler lines going into the trans are extremely difficult to access, would require dropping the trans cross member, but then I’d run into my trans pan coming down on my coolant lines, so those would have to Scoot out of the way, but I’m not sure they have that much wiggle room, so they’d more than likely need to come out, which means draining my coolant. After that, it’s still a massive pain to access those fittings.

Assuming I do access them, the 6an PTFE is a lot stiffer, and even with the banjo fittings or even some 90* fittings I’d probably run into trans tunnel interference issues.

I'm currently planning just to chop the 3/8 hose where its first easily accessible (12” from trans fittings) and install push lock to 6an fittings, and go 6an PTFE the rest of the way back. I haven’t had so much as a drop leak from those fittings, nor have the hose clamps come loose or the hose slide or anything.

 

My friends like to fuck with me too much to do that. If I did, I’d get some pic of my truck In some weird spot a few months later and never be the wiser.

 

Yeah I can’t get it into program mode. @Dm93 any tricks into forcing it into program mode? Maybe giving it 12v on the program wire?

 

YOOOOOOO I GOT IT TO WORK THIS SHIT IS AWESOME. I used my spare key. Maybe my “primary” key is a valet key.

 

That'd be hilarious if you've been Valeting yourself in your own truck.

 

Honestly I think I have been. Good thing the Toyota key is good for nothing other than the immobilization and starter relay.

 

I hate PTFE AN line. Automotive hose service is gonna come by tomorrow and make me these lines.


Straight female-straight male 8 FT
Straight female-straight male 8 FT

Straight female-straight female 6ft
Straight female-straight female 6ft

Straight female-90 degree female ~1ft (need cooler to find out)

Straight female-90 degree female ~2ft (need cooler to find out)


Once the cooler is here I’m gonna chop the bed up, install it/mock it up and give him a call. He’s gonna come over and make all these lines for me pretty quickly.

I got the 6AN bulkheads installed, old cooler removed, all the old lines removed, and everything’s ready to go for the new cooler to go in.

Picked up some ABS sheet to cover the beside holes that I’ve never had covers to, and also picked up hardware to actually bolt the bedside rails to the bed. Tired of hearing them crunch when I step on them. After tomorrow the bed should be fully finished.

 

Did you determine what caused the fuse to blow on your drive home?

 

No I haven’t. I can’t for the life of me remember where it goes, obviously my fuel pump is one of them.

 

New cooler in place. Still working on cleaning it up.

 

He's going to be covering it like a big vent. Just not done yet...

 

This. Just not exactly sure how to do it yet.



Got these ABS panels to cover up some holes in the bed from the previous owner. And to cover up the part of the cubby that isn’t there anymore.

funny enough, this Derale cooler is actually smaller than the last long and wide wise but it’s quite a bit thicker. I have room for a second one of these now, should I need it. Hope I don’t.

 

Gonna 3D print a shroud to protect the trans cooler from dirt and debris.

also, this things working great so far, keeps temps at 170. The Derale thermostat at its closed position directs 90% flow back to trans and 10% to cooler, the. When it’s open it’s 100% to cooler at 180*. Just set the level in the trans again, so I’ll see how hot I can get it tonight.

 

@Dm93 Gopedully I can lean on you a little bit for this. I’m about to install my condenser and receiver drier, I need AC working sooner than later. Ideally, I’d like to have the stock AC amp control everything. Can you send me the pin out of the AC amp? Is the logic for turning on and off the compressor clutch all inside the AC amp? I know it’s looking for RPM and ECT, I’m assuming at a certain waveform. I’m thinking maybe a waveform generator to just trick it into working whenever I press the switch. What about the thermistor to prevent freezing? Or are there any pressure switches?

 

Yes between that and the control panel.

You also need a compressor lock sensor signal if you aren't using a compressor with a built in sensor.
The waveforms for all the signals are in the pinout pdf.

It's on the evaporator so if you haven't messed with that or the wiring to it nothing should need to be changed there.

There is one dual pressure cutout switch on the high side line of the factory system that turns off at pressures below 27 psi and above 440 psi protection against excessive pressure and to shut down the compressor in the event of a total loss of refrigerant.


There is also an A/C permission signal from the PCM and an idle up signal to the PCM, you may or may not want to use these but the A/C permission wire needs to be 12v to allow A/C operation.

 

You’re the goat.

so, waveform generator for:

RPM SIGNAL
ECT SIGNAL
COMPRESSOR LOCK SIGNAL
AC PERMISSION SIGNAL

And really just one pressure cutout switch. Should probably get an OEM one.

and after that when I press my AC button, I should get cold air right?

what RPM should the RPM waveform be telling the AC amp it’s at? The Holley has an AC WOT cutout that I’ll put in line with a normally closed relay to take care of over revving the compressor, I just want the AC amp to act and behave like it should.

is that dual pressure switch on the high or low side? Edit: looks like it’s on the high side, please correct me if I’m wrong.

 

You only need to provide 12v to the A/C permission wire not a generated signal.

It shouldn't matter as long as it's in a valid range, the lock sensor signal doesn't have to be too precise as far as voltages go but it does need to be present.
I have a scope capture of the tach and lock sensor signal at idle. I can grab the temp signal if needed but it may be a few days before I get around to it.

If everything is correct.

 

I have some guy on Fiverr making me an arduino program to generate these waveforms. For me right now based off of the TIS examples. We’ll see how that goes. Theoretically I just need to pipe in those 3 signals, the 12v to ac permission, and then hook up the pressure sensor and I’ll have working AC! Ya know, once I have the hardware installed.

 

Aaaaaaand my 4L75E is done.

ripping around the waterhole tonight and now it won’t shift into 3rd. Since it won’t go into third it won’t go into 4th either. It’s not leaking any fluid, no weird noises or weird clunks. Just stopped shifting. Can’t even command a 3rd shift. Don’t know what to do at this point.

 

Damn that sucks... Hopefully it's something easy but the 4l75e is just a 4l60e with a couple internal upgrades. I think for the abuse of offroad you really need to go to a built 4l80e. Offroad is way more than "it handles xxx torque" there's so much shock loading and weird dynamics that are way more brutal than launching your car on tarmac, which is where all these power ratings come from.