The anonymous and most annoying P0172 Code

I'll go easier on you since you're new to working on vehicles.

Still do the proper diag before buying parts. I would recommend a scan tool capable of looking at live data to start. Fuel trim codes can be kind of tricky sometimes, this is for sure an issue that's in the advanced stage to learn on but that's okay.... long response incoming

 

100% percent support your DIY ethic, I am also a DIY-guy, not a pro mechanic.

There is.. lots to learn!

There's a lot of good youtube content out there on how to diagnose issues -- how to track down the root cause by a logical process of elimination.

This video is not specific to your exact code or issue. Rather it's an example of a massive parts-cannon attempt that failed (by an earlier mechanic) followed by how this pro auto diagnostician goes about tracking things down, rather than just parts-changing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Au49Z1SM8Hg&t=0s

 

So don't think you can really tackle this problem without a scantool that can read live data.
Still, your p0172 code is saying the engine is receiving too much fuel. The P1130 code from what I found is stating an issue with the O2 sensor. The two codes could possibly be related. Ideally you want to look at the live date for the short term fuel trims or sensor voltage. Fuel trims you want close to 0% rarely is it ever at 0% but between -7% and +7% is no cause for concern. You'll probably see something like -25% as it's trying to pull back fuel but it's getting too much to compensate. Hence why it's throwing the codes. For the sensor voltage here you should see a consistent sine wave between almost 0V and almost 1v on the scan tool. That is proper operation. You wouldn't see that since it's running rich. It'll be pegged. While it's running and you can see that data, pull the hose off the pcv or brake booster and see if the O2 sensor voltage and/or short term fuel trims come closer to what they should be. This is a quick and dirty check to see if the O2 sensor is working as it should respond to that and will most likely idle up. If you get no response then either get an oem O2 sensor (aftermarket ones usually suck hard) or reinstall your old one for testing. If it responds then next I would rent a fuel pressure tester and connect it to your system. Cycle the key to the on position then leave it there and read the gauge. I don't know the exact spec here but between 40-70psi I would say is normal. Leave that for 5-10 mins then come back and look again. If you have more than say 10 psi (again I don't know the Toyota specs here) then you have a leak somewhere. Based on your symptoms I would make the next step checking for a leaking fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator. If the stars aligned for you then you may see a leaking fuel injector get a spark plug or cylinder wet with gas. Otherwise you may have to remove the fuel rail and cycle the key to see which one it is. If you have a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail with a vacuum line on it then remove that line and see if it's wet. Sometimes those regulators leak through themselves and the fuel will be sucked in the vacuum lines and in turn into the engine.

Next thing that I would check also requires a live data scan tool. Get someone to drive your truck on a secondary highway going around 70Km/H or maybe 40MPH and look at your engine load parameter. While you're looking at the load, have your buddy crack the whip on it as if you're passing someone on the highway aggressively and see what the load percentage goes to. You want it to be over 80%. If it's less than that then either clean your MAF sensor by turning off the truck for a couple minutes, hosing the sensor down with specific MAF sensor cleaner while not ever touching it as they're very fragile, let it air drop completely for a minute or two then repeating the test. If it's still not at 80% but especially if it changes the load % then either reinstall your old one or go get an OEM one. They're pricey i'm sure but delicate sensors like that I don't recommend aftermarket unless they supply OEM parts like Denso, NGK, Delphi, etc.

Last thing I would try for fun if all else fails is a compression test.

Start with that and see where it gets you