Replacing UCA's - The Ugly Choice

I am going to be doing a 6100/5160/RTX Leaf Pack on my 22 OR. I was considering doing the UCA while I was there. I was watching some videos on how to replace the UCA and the two most common ways were to cut the bolt and replace it or to bend the pinch weld to get the bolt out.

Couple of questions/thoughts:

1. Even if you cut the bolt, aren't you still putting the new one in backwards basically (head of bolt on opposite side) of OEM config and don't you need to bend the pinch weld anyway to get it in?
2. It seems that the head of the bold being on the upward slope side would help keep the bolt in place should the nut come off (it would not be able to slide/shimmy out) but with the bolt backwards if the nut comes off it could shimmy/fall out (Granted I understand that if the nut came off I would ultimately have bigger issues, I think I my OCD is just getting to me and I always feel like Toyota did it this way for a reason. Not sure how you could do it the OEM way with the clearance you have in there though.
3. Is there a better way? I hate the idea of mangling my pinch weld or cutting/putting in a bolt backwards - but if that is the only way then so be it.
4. Since I am doing a 2" or less lift and running pizza cutters that will not require a lift is replacing the UCA really necessary? I mean I know I don't HAVE TO, but should I anyway? Since it is just a alignment and not a strength part I am thinking I could leave it for now and replace later if needed.

Appreciate all the thoughts and ideas. I learn so much from you guys.

 

Install the UCA bolts properly. A good friend of mine temporarily bricked his truck when the UCA bolt came loose, slid down and contacted the alternator line, then chafed through it blowing the alternator fuse. Downside was we were a fair ways from asphalt, let alone civilization when it happened.

Not to say that will happen with any certainty, but proper install avoids these issues entirely.

 

Something like this is what I am talking about. If you could put the bolt back the way it came OEM with the head on the up slope side of the bracket it would not be able to fall out like that. I imagine is would still rattle and be noisy but would still have a better chance of holding things together.

I didn't even think that was a real scenario and that I was making up bad possibilities in my mind.

 

Backwards with a lock nut.

 

Bending that thin piece of metal out of the way is super easy. If you have two people replacing the upper control arms can be done in an hour. The key is when installing them you have someone in the wheel well lining up the arms and the bolts while someone is in the engine bay pushing the bolt though. I thought it was going to be a difficult job but I did it just recently with no issues.

 

put a towel around the channel locks when you bend the inner fenderwell and bend it back, thereby not marring the paint