TORSPD: NEVR

=(

 

Hmmm…
Per your earlier comment you said something to the effect that the BRZ had 4.10 or 11 or 4.30 rear gear and could probably launch from 3rd gear and taking off in first was like a Mack truck or words to that effect. I would think going to 3.73 would still be low?

Also that’s sweet having a pre built exhaust system with 3” 304 tubing is a sweet deal. But I think I would want to add some more or bigger mufflers to the system to keep it quiet and a sleeper.

 

Why the long face? 90k on the used and abused trans, that can be fixed easily is still a good deal.

 

Yeah, we tested the ratio by marking and rotating the gears. Definitely a 4.30:1. According to the Tremec ratio calculator, he seems to be happy with the ratio of 3.73. The plus is that the diff was so cheap that it was good for testing the gear swap. Now that he knows the gears are a direct swap, there are other ratios available that only cost around $250. If he isn't satisfied with the 3.73, then he might go to a 3.5x.

 

you are right I am on my third transmission so I was thinking how it felt to have a messed up transmission

 

Fair enough!
I went from the 3.73 I swapped in, back to the 3.31 that came in the truck actually I purchased another one w/ about 6k miles. I was just thinking a little bit about fuel economy, say on the open road. And going to an LS forum most said @ 75 mph their vehicles were turning 1700 to 1900 most everyone who replied to my question were below 2200 rpm @ 75 mph. No big deal.

 

Your trans has only 5 gears and higher numerical values per gear. Which is well suited to a 3.31 final drive.

 

The BRZ build is going on a little break. We dropped the transmission today, and loaded it up to be delivered to the repair shop tomorrow. Hoping to have the rear diff back within the week.

The diff will go back in when the transmission does. Makes the job easier to get the transmission in with the differential out, due to the car being on jack stands.

I'll make sure to get some more photos and videos soon.

 

Nothing big to update on the BRZ really. We received the transmission back. The 2nd gear synchro had all but disappeared. According to the shop.

We reinstalled the transmission and rear diff. Got the rear drive-train buttoned up. No need to keep reposting pictures of the same things.

I used the Mr.Gasket rear main cover installation tool to get everything lined up properly. Went together smoothly, but was a little tight. May or may not have to do with tolerance differences between a GM rear main cover, and a Dorman brand.

Things to reinstall/finish:

Shifter arm
Driveshaft
Intake
Gear oil

Test drive to see if this is the proper gear ratio that he wants.

Build Y-pipe to finish the exhaust.

 

Been a busy few months since the last post.

Driving the truck daily again, and it really makes me want to refine delayed projects on it. Those will be coming this year. Long delays no more.

On the BRZ, I have had a little time to work on the y-pipe. As of last night, this where I ended. My welding is a bit out of practice, but it is thoroughly fused. Win.









I will finish out the driver side of the y-pipe next Friday. I cannot wait!

 

Beautiful work! Where are you getting your vband parts from? Specifically the clamps. And have you ever had an issue with the threads gauling and locking up when you try to remove them? Just had 3 in a row do that on my boat, so looking for some good ones.

 

V-band clamp/s just make sure to use a magnetic to see if it’s real 304 and make sure it has a metal lock nut. Nylon lock nuts are worthless! There are others to pick from…

$26 EVIL ENERGY 2.5" V Band Clamp with Flange Male Female Stainless Steel

https://www.amazon.com/EVIL-ENERGY-...qid=1710119600&sprefix=V-bands,aps,155&sr=8-6

This stuff is expensive and VERY messy but worth every cent. Look at the temperature rating. I use it to build Titanium bicycles w/ aluminum & Ti. nuts & bolts. Make sure to use a lot.

$25 MMC78 Nickel Base Anti-Seize Lubricant Compound 2500°F (8oz)

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Anti...&qid=1710119420&sprefix=Anti+s,aps,156&sr=8-5

 

Hah.....those are the exact clamps I just had to cut off. 4" clamps, but they were from evil energy. Maybe the anti seize is the missing piece to the puzzle.

 

The one on the merge is Ace Race Parts. They have a thicker shoulder than the Vibrant Performance flanges, so I prefer those for welding.

I have had that same problem of gauling with nearly ever brand that I have tried.

www.reidwashbon.com are the oldest ones that I have, and still going strong. Mainly because I tapped out the lock nut to make it regular.

Ace Race Parts threads: I have had to chase or tap a lot of them. But tall shoulders.

www.stainlessbros.com Has good threads. (Ticon Industries)

Vibrant Performance has decent threads.

www.reidwashbon.com has good threads.

I would like to try www.blacksheepindustries.ca v-bands. They have tall shoulders also.

 

Ace Race at least comes with two nuts. One for fabricating, and one for locking. Except that the locking one typically will destroy the threads.

 

Always a wealth of knowledge! I'll try some higher end clamps and tap out the lock nuts. Great input on the shoulder thickness.

 

thinking out loud here..... Wonder if using the non locking nut, and then nailing it with the center punch once its tight would be enough to lock it in, but still be able to remove it. Really just making your own stainless top lock nut, but controlling how much "lock" you get. Single punch may be enough vs the 3 punches on a grade 8 top lock

 

It could work, but a punched end next to threads, may damage them if you need to remove it. If I understood you correctly?

You could also use the simple double nut method. I prefer that on these the most. I do have a tendency to remove them many times though.

As a note, the quick release are my favorites. The nut doesn't have to traverse much thread length, compared to non quick release clamps.

 

Never looked to see if they're available in stainless. Essentially the interference fit of the hardware world. Look at the little dimples around the top of the nut.

 

That could be a good choice.