Door lock knob depresses when lifting outside door handle

Hey Guys,
Anyone run into this problem? When lifting the outside door handle to open the door, the interior door knob moves half way down to the locked position. Then when opening the door, the door knob depresses fully and locks the door.

Previously replaced the OEM plastic door handle assemblies with aftermarket door handles

Thanks in advance . . . 245K & counting
Steve

 

I have the same issue on the passenger door. I haven't gotten around to tearing into it, but from the last time I did some research I seem to recall it being due to a broken/bent piece in the lock mechanism that requires disassembly of the door to access.

 

I have the same problem. Replaced the outside handle and within a few days noticed it was too lose and moving when I pulled up on the handle. Took the door card back off and cranked down on the bolts holding the handle on. Then it started locking itself when trying to open from the outside. I can do it real fast and it will work or I have to unlock and try again 1 or 2 times. I'm sure something is in a bind in there since it started after I cranked down on it (and it's an aftermarket handle so maybe something is not perfectly aligned) but I've been too lazy to take the door card off and fiddle with it. I previously replaced passenger side door handle with OEM (at 10x the cost of aftermarket) and have never had a problem with it.

 

Darn...the exact same thing was happening to my passenger door lock...very aggravating...but, for whatever reason, it worked itself out

 

Dug around and found some additional info that should help.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/problem-with-my-door-lock-latch.410814/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/passenger-door-wont-open-from-the-outside.189458/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzEqA9Rk0XA

 

Same problem! Whats the fix?

 

Same here...would self lock trying to open. But for some odd reason it worked itself out. However, exterior handle snapped and I replaced. Point is there are nylon connectors, gotta take door panel off to access them, that snap onto door lock and opening rods that should get a hit of white lithium. And also the actual lock mechanism itself. And would be an excellent idea to replace inner and outer door handles while you're in there.
I get all my parts exclusively from O'Reilly's. All this crap about dealer oem, blah, blah, blah. Many, many ex-Toyota mechanics will tell you that the dealers get alot of their replacement parts from the same place you do. And that's the truth.

 

Ask Google, "where do Toyota dealerships get their parts?"

 

You have to be an idiot to believe something like that when you can easily compare OEM and aftermarket parts and see obvious differences.

 

If you've been told this, I would imagine this is subject to a few nuances. I could totally see a dealer picking up a Denso Coilpack or something along those lines from a parts store, as it doesn't expose them to much if any additional liability. On the other hand, a dealer isn't replacing critical components (ball joints, etc..) with Moog junk.

Also, any company with infrastructure like Toyota knows its best customer is itself. Why would they give O'Reilly's $100 for a set of ball joints when they can buy from their own inventory? They likely have procurement restrictions to prevent such a thing. In business anytime you can keep the money in house, you keep it in house.

 

Remember that a huge part of of the profits made by service departments is on parts pricing markups, so they aren't going to be going to O'Reillys for for a coilpack because they would be losing money if they did that.

 

Finally got around to pulling the door panel, lubricating the latch mechanism per the video and it worked as advertised. Thanks!

 

Resurrecting the necro-post, but just did this on my driver's side door. Thanks for all the information. I also put some sound deadening mat on the door while I was in there.