LS6 Swap 2nd Gen Build + New Tundra

How much longer until she is running again?

 

2 months probably. Maximum off-road transmissions gave me a lead time of 6-8 weeks

 

AC time

 

@Dm93 Since I sacrificed my OEM harness, and cut all the connectors off, where can I tap into the wires that usually power the Ac compressor clutch? Can I access them on the back of the ac amplifier? If not there, where?

 

Rife oil temp sensor installed


Fumoto valve installed

 

Do you still have everything in the underhood fuse box? The MG CLT relay is in there, the wire going to the compressor clutch is on connector EA1 Pin 3 (Violet). As long as you didn't cut any wiring between the A/C Amplifier and MG CLT relay you should be able to run that wire to your A/C compressor.

 

Oh and you may want to do the blower relay mod before your switch melts, by the color of that wire it looks like it's showing early signs of heat damage.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...lay-mod-prevent-blower-switch-failure.827331/

 

Yeah everything still in that fuse box, but I’m not sure if the wiring between it is still there… time to break out the continuity tester I suppose.

 

What wire on the back of the ac amplifier goes to the mg cult relay? Is it a positive trigger or a ground trigger? I’ll just add an extra relay.

 

Pin 21 (Green), it's ground side switched.
The A/C Amplifier is behind the glovebox.

 

Oh I’ve been mistakenly calling the ac controller where the knobs are as the ac amplifier. Oops. I don’t even know what I’m looking for now.

so pin 21 green is the ground trigger for the ac compressor clutch. Could you give me the 3 pin locations and colors for the RPM, ECT, and compressor lock signals where I need to inject those waveforms? Safe to assume it’s in the amplifier as well?

 

Well we have engine oil temp now! Also using this to trigger the oil cooler fans on and off. Pretty surprising there’s no way to monitor this.




This is what came off the magnetic drain plug before I switched to the fumoto valve. Took a sample of oil to send to blackstone again. I’m around 750 miles. I don’t know that I should be concerned considering the engine is still breaking in, the oil was dirty but not metallic at all. This is my first built motor so I’m not sure what really is normal and what isn’t.

 

Is this 100% for sure @Dm93? He wants me to buy a bunch of external hardware and potentiometers and I/C’s to make the modified sine wave. Sounds cleaner and easier to just have the arduino by itself.

 

It's a small black box with a single connector a bit bigger than a deck of cards, if you look straight up in the center of the glovebox opening it's right there. I'd get a picture of it but it's raining here atm.

It's all in the diagrams I shared.

Pin 5 (Orange): Pressure Switch
Pin 6 (Red/White): Lock Sensor Signal
Pin 7 (Blue): A/C Permission
Pin 9 (Green/White): A/C Idle Up Signal
Pin 19 (Grey/Black): ECT Signal
Pin 21 (Green): MG CLT Relay Control
Pin 22 (Black/White): Tach Signal

Well I mean I've done some messing around with it and it seems to be happy as long as there's a signal on that wire, I think you could feed it a 2-3v square wave 30ms low and 30 ms high and it would be happy.

 

found the module. Pulled the casing off to actually solder the wires directly to the board. Did everything with the exception of the idle up signal. The Holley will self accommodate when it notices the RPM drop from the ac being engaged. We’re cooking with gas now! @Dm93 thank you so much for your help.

so the pressure switch wire goes to one wire on the pressure switch, the other wire on the pressure switch goes to ground?

 

Yes.

 

What we we all do without @Dm93 ?

 

Well I can tell you for sure that I wouldn’t have a running, starting, driving truck with AC or reverse lights. Or anything for that matter.

 

Well the AC wiring is 100% done. Just waiting on the dude to finish writing code for the arduino so I can plug that module in, and still waiting for my binary pressure switch to get here so I can plug it in as well.

condensed mounted on one side:


Still haven’t exactly figured out the other side:


Receiver dryer is mounted:



“Changed” the oil again, only had about 750 miles on it. By “changed” I mean I drained the very little oil remaining after draining most of it out on the ground when I put in the temp sender and fumoto valve. AMSOIL oil and filter.

Overfilled it a quite a bit, since the filter, new bigger oil cooler, and accusump are all empty. Will check the level again once it’s running again. Good news is if it’s still overfull I have a valve to open and drain the necessary amount!

 

Have you figured out your dash instrument cluster and center console shifter area solution yet? I’m curious to see what you’ll come up with for those.

This is an amazing and awesome build project!!