Post alignment specs. Any good?

Got my alignment done today after installing eibachs stage 1 with the Tacoma lean spacer. Feels better driving down the road but not great. I do have jba’s on order and will be installing them in a month or so but for the mean time how do the specs look? I did go to a reputable alignment shop and asked for as much camber as possible too

 

Good ol' Toe-n-Go - The simplest form of alignment

However the camber and caster seemed fine before.

 

They didn't even try to adjust left side camber. Toe and Go alignment.

 

Need more caster

 

Going to search for a better alignment shop I guess once I install my new ucas

 

Reputable by who?

Looks like they didn't even touch your camber.

 

Had a few buddies go there and say they are good, but I will definitely be looking else where when I install my new ucas

 

There are way too many things on these charts that make no sense. First of all, when was the last time anyone has seen actual negative caster readings. Is that even possible, I don't know. And then look at the camber readings for the rear. Really? Four tenths positive camber in the rear. If you somehow so overloaded your truck that it bent the axles, you more likely get negative camber on the rear - y'know - like an old Beetle that's sagging (obviously excluding some dune buggies that run lots of pos camber in the rear on purpose). I'd be wondering two things and neither of them are good for this shop. First is when was the last time they had their rack calibrated, and two, did their techs get the wheel attachments on correctly. And set aside your current measurement numbers for caster being in the red, how does any self respecting alignment tech look at those numbers and be okay with them, and if there was something in your suspension that kept them from getting normal caster numbers, they should have certainly mentioned that to you and suggested a plan for addressing it.

 

Issue is, who do you trust? Lol. I’ll be the first to admit I don’t know anything about alignments. I mean I do have jbas on order so I will be installing them asap

 

were you referring to maximum caster? that would help a lot if you are trying to fit larger tires without rubbing the cab mount. Just for reference my caster is around positive 3.5deg

 

That’s the reason I bought the jbas. I’m currently running 33s but I rub only on reverse. I was going to do a cmc but if the higher caster will allow me to run them without a cmc then I will hold off

 

Well, there are a ton of clues in the printout sheet you posted, so you now know who not to trust. If there is a 4WD specialty shop in your town, sometimes they'll have their own alignment service or can recommend one to you. Alignments have really gone up in price and you do wan to get your money's worth, which you're not getting here. It would be quite interesting to put it on another rack right how to see how different the numbers are from the last shop but you might have to pay for that and if you're going to do an upgrade anyway, you probably don't want to pay for an extra alignment.

 

i had the CMC when i was on 33s but with ~3-4deg of castor. i did not rub on my cab mount at full lock and full uptravel. but i had the cmc i am sure the alignment helped too.

 

yeah, $220 cad… lol. Gonna hold off for about a month until I get my new ucas installed and find somewhere else

I have the plates to weld in, was going to do it this weekend. Even with that caster I still think you need a chop. I’d think just looking at it and how it will travel

 

Caster is way too low, anything less than 1 degree is like a shopping cart. Find somewhere capable of doing it properly.

 

If your LCA cam bolts are rusty I don't blame them for not touching them. Those things are always frozen and refuse to spin. The cam tabs get flattened immediately, the bushings rip, customers get pissed..

I've mentioned it before, but you need to know if they're frozen or stuck before dropping it off for an alignment

 

Green = good
Red = bad

 

How would I check to see if they are? And if they are, order a new bushing kit?

 

Loosen the bolts and (carefully) try to turn the adjuster. see if they move without dragging the bushing around in a circle or flattening the cam tabs.

If seized they'll need to be cut out. So a bolt kit and bushings

 

I also know nothing about alignments but I'm curious what clip you have the Eibachs set to? I have the Eibach Stage 1 lift set to the 2nd clip with no lean spacer and still on stock UCAs (with ~2.75" lift in front). My caster is significantly different from yours. My truck still pulls to the left after 3 alignments, so I ordered some aftermarket UCAs to see if it fixes the pull.

My recent alignment printout shows the following on stock UCAs:
Front Left Caster: 1.5* ------ Front Right Caster: 1.9*
Front Left Camber: 0.5* ----- Front Right Camber: 0.4*
Front Left Toe: 0.05* --------- Front Right Toe: 0.04*