Dealer mechanic video of multipoint inspection

I have a 2002 Prerunner. It's been a wonderful truck that doesn't ask much, and it's time to repay the favor.

A few questions for this post:

1. Can anyone recommend a good undercoater in the Charlotte, NC/ Columbia, SC area? I'd like to get as much rust off the bottom as possible, then give it a nice coating. It spent a year parked on the street up north, and I was shocked at what the salt still did to it.

2. How easy is replacing the drive shaft carrier bearing?

3. Heater control valve/AC compressor - easy to replace yourself?

 

The carrier bearing isn't hard, it's just a bit cumbersome to work with. Like any 2 piece driveshaft.
The heater control valve is super easy.
The valve covers are not "too bad". But will take a few hours or 3.

The Timing Belt and Water Pump are a pretty big job.
It will take the better part of a full day if DIY in the driveway.

As foe the inspection. It looks about normal for a 22 year old truck.
I'd like to have seen the frame get a little more attention. Maybe it was inspected better, but shown in the video.
From what I see, it looks like a pretty solid truck.

 

I say get in there and get it done.
Make it last another 180k

1. Timing Belt - https://adventuretaco.com/guide/ste...r-3-4l-v6-5vzfe-also-4runner-tundra-and-t100/

2. Carrier Bearing - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replacing-carrier-bearing.260283/

3. Heater Control Valve

 

Thanks brother I'm getting the heater valve from toyotapartsdeal right now. Do you know where the best place to get an AC compressor is? toyotapartsdeal has OEM for $280

 

I know it's only 4 more bolts but I did the carrier bearing replacement without removing the driveshaft. Mine also did not require a puller of any kind to remove it. The one and only time I did the timing belt job (belt, idlers, water pump, thermostat..) it took a day. Part of that was cleaning all the crust from the leaking water pump and second guessing the belt positioning.

 

Why do you need a compressor? Maybe I missed it but the inspection didn't mention AC compressor only the heater valve.

 

they sent me over this post visit summary document that said it was leaking

 

The problem with doing AC work yourself is you have to find a way to drain the refrigerant and refill it when your done. Probably worth having the dealership do.

 

Yeah, the diff service and transmission fluid I’m going to have someone do

 

If you can change engine oil, you can do those.
You have a dipstick on the transmission. Easy to get right.

Use 2nd and 3rd Gen guys. We don't have it that easy.
We have to use a scan tool or put the truck in Temp Check mode.
Toyota decide we didn't need a dipstick.......

 

The dealership trick is to measure what comes out and put a little more back in.

 

As far as undercoating IMO…..

Shop would just spray coating
The rust will now be under coating
After a period of time, the rust will expand and crack coating.
This creates a ‘pocket’ to collect water
Doubling the chance(time frame) of frame failure due to rust

I will contact my neighbor
He swears by this stuff
Once brushed on, inhibits (stops) rust then dries as a kind of ceramic coating
Then paint

prep is paramount.
Buy a few wire brushes!

gemme a lil bit to text him……..

 

https://www.unoclean.com/641016qc-q...MIk4rw8OGBhQMVYkx_AB3IJwiJEAQYFiABEgIvJvD_BwE

 

It’s all coming back to me

wanted to paint my rear drums bc of rust and new rims that ‘advertised’ the rust
Neighbor showed me this
WOW pricey!
I went cheap route, grinder/drill with round wire brush attachment

but
If you investigate rust inhibitor products out there……this is only one that dries with an acrylic coating left over.
As long as properly prepared and rust is primarily ‘surface’ rust….this is best way to go
Now, rusty drums, wouldn’t spend $300 for a $35 part X 2
But a frame…..I might consider the purchase as an investment for the future

 

You had to disassemble something along the driveshaft's route. Where did you do the disassembly (inquiring minds want to know...)?

I'm still running on the original carrier bearing (120,000 miles) but I know I'll hafta replace it sooner or later.

 

Of course, the rear shaft has to be seperated from the flange at the support bearing. At that point everything that needs to be accessed to remove the carrier bearing is accessible. Sorry if I wasn't clear enough, the instructions linked said to remove the front drive shaft and bring it to a vice. That wasn't necessary in my case, I was able to complete the work without removing the front shaft from the vehicle. It's only 4 more bolts to remove it if need be, speaking only for myself, it wasn't necessary. I've even seen a video showing complete removal of both front and rear driveshaft to do the job, absolutely unnecessary.

 

Thank you for your quick reply! I kinda figgered that would be where to split the drive shaft.
Thanks again!!

 

Yes, it has to be split there to access the 1 bolt that holds the flange to the front shaft. Separating the rear from that flange was actually the hardest part on my truck, it was stubborn.
All the other parts came off easily, as I mentioned earlier, in my case, no puller was needed for the flange or support bearing. That could also be a factor in deciding whether or not to completely remove the front shaft from the truck.