CV Joint inner dust seal?

I am working on rebooting the CV joints with my 15yo son's truck ( A bit of a project). We have really enjoyed the resources here as they have really simplified the project.

We removed the CV axle and the gold ring that I assume is a dust seal just popped out with it (see photo).

We have watched several videos and have not seen that happen or addressed. (My usual result).

My plan is to just tap it back on in the orientation of the ones in the video, but want to make sure that this would be a good approach.

My other question is does everyone just replace the inner seal when they pull out the CV joint? We have 162k miles but they are not leaking, but $12 may be worth the assurance. Are they an easy pry out push in item?

Also, I am hopping that someone can assure us that these are OEM axles as I would hate to rebuild some cheap ones. I have read the thread regarding identifying OEM and these seem to match. The dust cover was perfect and there was the a bit of green wrap on them (a very small bit but no paint).

Thanks in advance.

 

That seal is just for dust and debris. Clean it then remount it.

That CV looks OEM. There was never paint but the remnants of that green sticker denote OEM ADD CV axle.

 

Thank you for the quick response. We are doing the rack and sway bar bushings at the same time so it's a fun project.

Would you advise a new seal?

Rookie question..what does ADD mean in this context.

 

ADD=Automatic Disconnecting Differential. It stays locked at the wheel and comes in and out of 4WD at the differential.

I would advise a new outer seal but the inner one is fine unless completely bent or mangled. It can’t fall into the differential so just reseat it back on the that inner hub once your reassemble.

 

Does anyone have a good approach to removing the outer dust seal without damaging the inside of the differential (where the seal fits)?

I found the video of the slide hammer approach but I do not have one of those. I currently plan to just pry it out with a screwdriver but wanted to check to see if that is the approach everyone else uses. I am planning on the pvc tap in method to install the new ones.

Thanks again

 

Just wipe that one out and clean it. If it ain't leaking then don't mess with it. Use a seal remover to remove it. It will destroy it and it cannot be reused, the seal remover with mangle and destroy it.

 

Ok a couple more questions.

While cleaning the axle my son cleaned the paint stick clean off. How big of a deal is it if they are not back to the original orientation? If anyone has had a big problem with it I could jut buy a Napa one and not risk any damage/vibration.

Also, any tips beyond just rotating the axle to get into the Dif? The ring is definitely wider than the shaft and I can't imagine it's going to magically slide in ( I put the new one on). I kept is straight and rotated about 20 times to try different positions. I saw one guy tap on it but others highly recommending against it.

Thanks

 

Not a big deal for orientation.

Use a dead blow or brass hammer to tap the CV end while rotating within a couple degrees clockwise and counterclockwise. You are trying to depress the C clip and not damaging spider gears or pinion. The teeth must line up however they are beveled for that reason, the c clip is what is preventing it sliding into position.

 

Great news, thank you. So that means that the inner part that the cv slides into must be angled in a way to compress the clip as it sticks out about 1/16 from the side. Didn't think it was going to slide in by hand.

Thanks again