Budget-friendly build (mostly) DIY

2/10/24 I bought a 2008 Taco: SR5, double cab, 4x4, 6’ bed, tow package, limited slip diff. It looked like it was a grocery getter that saw little to no off-road time.

This will be a general purpose pickup for me. I take a couple hunting/camping trips each year in the intermountain west where I crawl some 2-tracks to get from A to B. The full-size pickup wheelbase and low breakover angle are not ideal for the tight turns and steep drops of mountain roads, and I will have to navigate within the vehicle's limitations. On the positive side, the long bed is great for home improvement and landscaping projects, and the seating accommodates my 4 kids.

The previous owner of 16 years made no mods...how can you own a Taco and not make mods... Anyways, this makes for a great blank palate for my own projects. I started with a thorough inspection and an inventory of work to be done. Day 1:


General maintenance to date: clean brakes, front and back diff fluid change, grease driveshaft, and clean cabin air filter. Retorquing driveshaft is pointless because the fasteners are rusted on. I created my own maintenance schedule based on the CarFax report, owner's stack of paper maintenance records, the owner's manual, and the wealth of advice on this forum.

Fixes to date: Replace headlamp, remove broken front fender splashguards, replace upper ball joints, grease and reboot lower ball joints, remove an acorn from the blower motor, rebuild CV axel.

Mods to date: Wheel center cap delete, nerf boards delete, Glue grease cap covers on rear hubs, repaint stock wheels (thank you @stevo27), Cooper Discoverer AT3 LT265/75/R16, ECGS bushing, Wulf 1" rear lift blocks, Bilstein 5100 shocks (set to 1.75" front lift), KSP 1" wheel spacers.

I got an alignment today and it is 100% within factory spec. Ride is VERY smooth. NO vibes!


Upcoming projects (with more pics): center console vault, topper, cargo rack, pull dents, remove exhaust stain, high clearance exhaust reroute, weld patches to front body mounts and adjacent frame (contracted), drop trailer hitch, repaint spare wheel, floor mats, seat covers, front fender splash guards, tire chains, roof mildew removal.

Probably dreaming...let's be real, this is a $8k rig with a frame that will rust out in 8-10 years, so probably best not to go too crazy. If I score a sweet deal on parts or accessories I might splurge a little bit. Rock sliders, armor/skid plate kit, remove/repair scratches, remove frame rust and recoat, ARB front bumper, winch, USB ports/stereo upgrade, TRD grille, blackout license plates, OME springs, upholstered bed, dash cams, Hi-Lift jack mount, premium UCA's, add-a-leaf.

 

Pressure-washed the inside of the frame today. The ramps in front help everything drain in 1 direction. 15 mins on the freeway to get it nice and dry afterwards.



It seems like part of Toyota’s catastrophic frame failure is due to debris building up inside the rectangular 4-wall frame sections, trapping salt, and drying slowly after becoming saturated.

Before washing I dug about 3-4 lbs of rust, dirt, sand and gravel out of the frame using a long screwdriver and a toothbrush. I also used an angle grinder to start prepping the front body mount areas that are getting repaired. I see the welder on Monday.


No way to stop the cancer, but I can slow it down. Plan to keep the frame clean and dry as much as possible, and the truck stays in a heated/insulated garage that I finished last year.

Last little fix, replaced some missing and broken trim fasteners on the rear fenders.