Help-Oil Filter too tight!

A buddy and my first real jobs after high school were at U-Haul. Poor U-Haul!

 

Link to a good metal filter housing?

 

$55 Genuine 04152-YZZA1 oil filter with Genuine 15620-31060 Oil Filter Housing Cap and 15643-31050 Cap Plug includes APSG Wrench and crush washer.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-0415...ta+tacoma+filter+housin,automotive,118&sr=1-3

 

Same thing happened to my 22 TRD Sport. The service tech tightened it so much I had to use a breaker bar to undo it. It seriously felt like 60-70 ft lbs torqued on.

 

Old thread, same old story... 2022 Tacoma TRD Sport, dealership changed the oil at ~20,000 miles as per the factory recommendation. Now that I'm out of warranty, it was my turn. Changing the oil should be easy, right? Well, the mechanic must've gotten pissed at my TRD Pro skid plate and decide to get revenge by tightening the plastic flange. Even with the right oil 'wrench', it was tighter than a cylinder head bolt: 1/2 inch ratchet, no go, 18" breaker bar, nada, massive torque wrench set at max (240 ft. lbs.), no joy. At this point, I relinquish myself to catastrophic failure or an afternoon with the Dremel. In one last desperate longshot, I bring out the impact gun. Geez, the force applied, let me count the seconds, attempt #2, #3, The plastic fins cracked, meaning the flange cracked through, but it came loose on that third try.

Below, I wanted to show that you should never have to use an impact gun at full setting on a plastic oil filter flange.

I'm glad that I listened to this thread, and got the aluminum flange beforehand (thanks @clownkillerloaf for the link). The purchase was a just in case; well proper planning prevent poor performance today. And I note, there is a dot on the aluminum flange that aligned perfectly with that little clip on the oil filter housing:

 

Is there a spin on conversion kit for the 3.5?

 

Yeah, it's kinda pricey: https://www.baxterperformanceusa.co...k-cartridge-to-spin-on-adapter-universal.html

 

Wow, yeah I’ll stay with my Mobil 1 elements,lol, thanks for the link, I appreciate it

 

Wait what does this do? I read the description on the website

 

Converts the cartridge filter to spin-on. They also have one that has a remote upside-down filter kinda like a 2G.

 

Same experience I had exactly. No amount of force was making it budge; took the 1/2" impact and buzzed it off. Thought everything was okay, and quickly found out after a refill and crank to check for leaks, that one of the fins had cracked and come off, leaving a small hole in the housing. Only took a second to see and hear oil spraying everywhere. Took just a few seconds to dump multiple quarts through that pinhole, so needless to say, my system's pressurization is great lol.

Side note, had another failure with one of the replacement aluminum housings a couple oil changes after that. No issues of it being too tight, but there was somehow a microscopic crack/hole in the very corner of the housing drain plug piece. Thought maybe the gasket had split or something causing the leak, but I was able to pinpoint the leak to a teeny tiny crack in the plug itself. The crack was so small, you can't even see it; I just noticed an oil drip and eventually traced where it originated. It would only drip after the oil had warmed up; I guess the hole was so small, cold oil wouldn't seep through. So because I've had so many issues with this trucks oil filter housing, I just remove the entire housing without draining it first. Its the same amount of mess either way for me and less tools/parts to fool with.

 

Another option for the filter removal tool. Made from forged steel, much heavier than the aluminum tool.
I just got it to replace the cheapie aluminum tool that grips the "ears" on the housing.
Very nice, tight fit. Tool moves just a hair, should make it easier to take it off.

$28 MichaelPro 64.5mm Forged Steel Oil Filter Cap Wrench for Toyota, Lexus, 14 flutes | Easily Remove Stubborn Oil Filters | Tough Lexus & Toyota Oil Filter Tool | MP009081

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHHTPCH9

 

Sounds like a crack in the square indentation for the wrench? Remember to replace the O-ring under that plug occasionally.
Your story is a good reminder for me not to over tighten that cap. I started using a 1/4' ratchet with an adapter and holding it right by the head, to minimize the torque I apply. Maybe I should break out the torque wrench next time.

 

Exactly, just a hairline/pinhole crack in one of the corners of the square indentation; couldn't even see it, but oil would accumulate there. Figured I'd just be through with even taking that piece off ever again to access the hole for plastic drain piece. If the O-ring ever decides to fail, I've now got a whole box full of them as extras lol.

 

If you need to replace it, it is sold separatly.

$7 Toyota - Plug, Oil Filter Dra (15643-31050)

https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-15643-31050-Plug-Oil-Filter/dp/B00TNNKTDI

 

I just bought a whole new housing since I was on a time crunch that weekend. Figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a spare with all the mishaps I'd already had and nightmares I've seen on here everyday lol

 

what is the spec on these they use to be like some super small newton meters, or torque on the plastic ones, which when I actually did the math to figure out FT LB/Tq wasn't much tighter then snug and a bit more for me at least

 

30 ft/lbs drain plug
20 ft/lbs filter housing
10 ft/lbs filter drain

 

18ft lbs
important to spread oil on the threads and O ring with you finger before screwing it on

 

That's the key. Gotta put generous amount of oil on the o-ring and the threads.