Tacoma Lift FAQ/Guide - READ THIS

Currently running these tires, I needed it full a set of coil-overs front, rear plus spring shocks and leafs to lift my truck 2.5 inches

 

Questions here from a novice.

Planning on upgrading my 23 TRD Off Road with the full BP51 medium load kit from **********.

I was thinking about getting Falken Wildpeak AT3W 285/75 16s. I don't want to run spacers on the suspension. I don't know if these tires would fit, or if another size would be recommended. The other size I was considering is 235/85 16s.

Any input would be appreciated.

 

If I want to give my truck a 3 inch lift, how much time do I have to change the UCAs before the stock ones are damaged? Should I just wait and save up until I can get the entire kit? I’ve seen a lot of people on YouTube doing a lift without changing the UCAs which I know is not recommended but doable.

 

I would say it’s more of an alignment issue and tire clearance, than it is a a damage to your uppers.

If your lift is under 2”, then you can get away with the stick uppers.

 

I had about 2.5" up front with stock uppers before I settled closer to 2.25". Stock UCAs are fine, I don't think there's any risk of ball joint binding or damage, probably not even at 3", unless it's a spacer lift (because the max extended length of the shocks is now 3" lower than stock). The problem with stock uppers is that your caster is extremely low when lifted that high. Though low caster doesn't cause unnecessary tire wear, you have poor on-center feel and your truck will feel twitchy.

 

Are longer brake lines necessary? I see those as add-ons a lot with a lot of lift kits.

 

In general, longer brake lines are not needed for the front unless you do something like a long travel or spindle lift. I would probably do extended lines in the rear. What lift are you doing?

 

I know there are more expensive (and probably better) options for leveling, but what's the group's opinion of the Rough Country 0-2" M1 Adjustable Leveling struts from Extreme Terrain ( https://www.extremeterrain.com/roug...nch-m1-adjustable-leveling-struts-502075.html )? I think a previous post said 1.75" leveling was enough to level a Taco (2023 TRD off rod, 6' bed). I'm not looking at getting a larger tire size and plan on pretty simple overlanding.

 

Took measurements before Westcott Design lift arrives. Fronts both at 21” even. Driver rear at 21-1/2” passenger rear 22”. All tires at 30psi cold. Moved truck 180 and 360 degrees, no change. 2017 TRD PRO stock. Any suggestions as to adjust the 21-1/2” to meet the 22” before install ? I understand that the driver should be a bit higher to compensate for weight. Mine seems opposite.

 

Perhaps a bad shock ? I read here that someone had an issue with one rear shock not coming back up all the way after compressed ?

 

Not sure where to ask this. Looking to go with Bilsten 6112/5160 possibly. Where is best place to buy an all inclusive setup with everything I’ll need whether that be the shocks struts ucas or whatever

 

I’m not sure if Exit Offroad does Bilsten or not, but I like there Dobinson options. They tell you everything you need.

 

thank you

 

A lot of good information on here & other threads, but I’m having a hard time finding the exact answers I’m looking for in regards what I want to do with my truck. 2nd Gen Tacoma DCLB 4x4. I’m looking for a modest lift on my truck. 2-2.5” and keeping the truck level or wouldn’t mind a slight rake in the back. I don’t do any crazy off-roading and want to keep the daily drivability of the truck comfortable. Truck is stock minus the soon addition of an RCI Bedrack(100lbs) & RTT(150lbs) that I will probably keep on all year round. I don’t expect the bed weight to ever be loaded with more than 500lbs total. I do tow from time to time, but not too frequently. I’d say 10-20 days max out of the year with a 20’ boat & trailer (4,000lbs) and motorcycle trailer (1,200lbs)

After a lot of research I decided the setup that would work best for me would be Bilstein 5100’s all around with OME 2885 or 2886 springs up front and either HS or ICON 1.5” Progressive 3 leaf AAL in the rear with added 1/2” shim to get it to 2”. Right now, I’m running stock OR wheels and tires, but plan to get some bigger tires in the future. (Potentially 285’s if I can get them to fit, but I understand that’s a whole other conversation)

I pulled the trigger on this setup but after some more research I’m having 2nd thoughts due to some negative feedback I’m reading on the HS/ICON 1.5 Progressive AAL setup. From my research, these packs are not recommended to be installed with the stock Overload spring (although I know some people keep it anyway) so I’m concerned about payload capability with these since I do tow from time to time and will have up to 500lbs in the bed. After scouring through other threads, it seems that instead of running this setup people are recommending to rid of the OE leaf springs completely and instead go with the ICON RXT or Dakar HD full replacement leaf pack. There are three setting options on the ICON RXT pack, and it seems the option that would make the most sense for me would be option 2 which would give me a 2.25-2.75” lift in the rear. This would be okay with me however, I’m reading the 5100’s may not work with this option and I would potentially need a longer shock (5125 or 5160).

With my setup and usage listed above,

1: Will the 1.5 Progressive AAL be sufficient or would it make sense to go with the full leafpack replacement? Do you think it’s okay to keep the overload spring in or will this cause more problems than it’s worth?

2: If I do decide to go with the full leafpack replacement ICON RXT on option 2, can I use the 5100 shocks or do I need to buy others for the rear?

3: I understand with the ICON RXT leafpack I may need to extend the brake lines, but am only seeing this for 3rd gens. Will I need to extend them on my 2nd gen if I’m running Option 2?

4: Would you recommend going with OME 2885 or OME 2886 springs up front?

Anyone have some insight or running a similar setup on their 2nd gen that can chime in it would be much appreciated.

 

So I went up to 17" wheels and tires and I am getting a bit of rubbing on the outside of the fender when I turn. Will a lift of 2 to 3 inches fix this?

 

I did the same. I put 17" Nomads and 265/70/17s. Had to take off the front mud flap and trim a little. I was wondering the same thing.

 

So, I'm currently running a 3" level kit from rough country. I planned on doing a whole swap to maybe Dobinson shocks and old man emu leaf springs. Is there a way to predict what I would need to maintain it level and not return to a factory rake or a slight Carolina squat if I plan on adding a smartcap and front and rear bumpers and gear? I'm just trying to plan ahead so I can. Do it right the first time, also explaining anything in layman's terms would be greatly appreciated as I'm a sailor, not a mechanic.

 

DAMN! you have an awesome garage!

 

Really good looking truck

 

I'm running a '23 TRD OR 4x4. I'd like to do a King Suspension lift and 33" Baja Boss. I'd like to maintain the stock look of having the front end be about .5" lower than the front to maintain the aggressive look and to minimize squatting when I tow.

I don't know much about this stuff...yet, but what height lift should I get? From my research, it seems to get 33" with no rubbing or anything, even off road, I'd need at least 2.5". Likely 3". I'm guessing at that point I would need to replace my UCAs as well, yes? Is a body mount chop necessary to complete this? Or any truck mods other than suspension and UCA?