Any permanent/ reliable fix for 2nd gen 6speed manual throw out bearing chirp??

Hello this is my first post.
I have been looking at all the forms on these damn throw out bearing chirps on the 6speed manual trans on the 2nd gen’s. Has any one found a reliable or permanent fix for this throw out bearing issue?
I have a 06 access with 138k miles that’s been chirping since 65k miles and has gotten progressively worse. At 133k miles I had a shop drop trans and put in a new TB (aisin), new clutch, new shifter bushings, and replaced rear main. The chirp came back only 2k miles later. The work is under a 1 year warranty so the shop put in another Asian TB. I’ve put about 3k more miles on and the damn chirp is back! I love this truck I really do NOT want to sell it. Seems like this trans wasn’t one of Aisin’s best.
Has anyone come across a reliable fix on this?? looking to hear from people who have personally delt with this issue
Thank you

 

there’s multiple kits marketed as upgrades. Take your pick

-newer trans with replaceable sleeve
-URD larger TOB
-CM HydroTOB
-Tilton HydroTOB
Etc

 

Have you personally used any of these?

 

Tilton HRB seems to be the way and the reason I chose it for my auto to manual swap. Clutch Masters hydro is plagued with its own set of problems.

All the info you'll ever want and more on the Tilton is here:

6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans | Tacoma World

 

@DesertRatliff damn looks like going hydrologic is going to be $$$

 

Yeah, unfortunately the end user has to take on the burden/cost of Toyota's poor engineering here, regardless of the decision made to address the chirp. At least there's a documented permanent fix from a company with a proven, reliable design. I don't plan on getting rid of my truck anytime soon, so it made sense for me.

 

The throw out bearings in these trucks chirp. Always have, always will. That said they are reliable even if they are annoying.

I have never heard of a catastrophic failure from an OEM bearing blowing up. They regularly go 100k+ miles chirping most of the way. Yours is brand new, you know it's brand new. Run it another 140k and replace with the next clutch.

 

I have put the URD sleeve/oversized TOB kit in both of my trucks this past year and no noise yet. To be fair, my one truck wasnt making noise before but I already had the trans out so figured I would do it while I was in there. But my other truck made noise all the time. So nice to finally have that noise gone

 

@GearHead899 sounds good! how many miles on the trans have you had the URD set up?

 

Not too many honestly. The one truck is a garage queen so maybe only has 500 miles on it since install. The other has about 5k since install. The chirping is usually caused by the quill of the trans that the bearing rides on, not the actual bearing being worn itself. Thats why so many people have the noise come right back after just replacing the bearing. The quill is aluminum that the bearing rides on so over time, it gets grooved and worn uneavenly which causes the bearing the kind of rattle around on it and thats what the noise is. The URD kit comes with a machined stainless sleeve that slides over the aluminum quill to give the new bearing a nice smooth surface to ride on it and its much tougher then the aluminum so it shouldnt wear. Attached is the pic of the quill on my one truck after running some fine sandpaper over the quill. You can really see the grooves in it

 

@GearHead899 thank you for the info! This maybe the way to go. I have appointment with the shop this afternoon (the TB is under warranty) I’ll see if we can get urd in the trans

 

I have the CM HydroTOB and really don’t know what to think about it. Noise seems to have gone away.

but pedal bite seems to change. I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve crawled under the dash with stubby 12 and 14mm wrench to adjust the bite point. I try to set it where they say to, after the truck is at operating temp and not warm.
At some point am going to try switching from regular DOT4 to DOT4LV in the hope LV doesn’t change as much in temperature (ie thick cold start)

it used to be fluid came out dark bleeding which looked odd. Don’t know if that was from my old master cyl behind the pedal (plastic) that I replaced with metal.
because if I bleed brakes on any other car after a longer period of time it doesn’t come out discolored like that.

Theres a guy on here who makes hardware kits to adapt the Tilton. I ordered a kit to keep on hand in the future anticipation I may end up needing to swap to a Tilton later on and want to have the adapter kit before it’s no longer made. Either that or someone posted the specs of what’s needed and machining dimensions.

 

Just got my truck back from shop. We did end up going with the URD sleeve kit. The clutch feels super smooth now. Friction point grabs in a good spot. Truck feels and sounds good so far.

I will update after I get some thousand mile on it but hopefully that damn chirp is gone for a while.

 

My truck has 140K on the stock clutch/throw out bearing and zero noise. Does this throw out bearing issue happen with all 6 speed 2 gens, or is it flip a coin?
Just curious because I've seen this topic pop up before. I do plan on swapping in 2016+ trans when my clutch goes though.

 

I dunno man. By that point I had crazy chirp.

also, the sleeve is said to wear and not replaceable. Maybe yours is wearing. It can eventually break.
You don’t really know the condition of the stock sleeve until the trans is out.

I don’t know if there’s room to sneak a $30 lighted borescope to look without trans remove. If there is, great.

there was also a guy who said he knows a way to carefully lubricate it but was not interested in sharing that information out of suspicion the instructions would not be followed and people would get lube all over their clutch (bad)

I kind of miss mechanical. Except for the issues.
Feel was a bit tough but feel able and consistent.

my CM HydroTOB softened bite to where it seems a bit more vague and inconsistent. Even though I have a stronger clutch and PP that I was hoping would even out with that.

makes sense why they use it on performance cars that run way more power with way stronger clutches, that if anything may require hydroTOB for that reason as the pedal would be inoperable if it was mechanical with that much force.

don’t know if Tilton would be any different.

technically HydroTOB may not even be needed using another setup like 3rd gen with replaceable quill
Or maybe even URD kit…
one can always try that first and see what happens.

properly driven at your miles I think a clutch and flywheel can last that long but I wouldn’t bank on a stock TOB lasting that long or PP fingers still being straight and not bent.

 

Interesting information.

I have a borescope camera I'm going to see if I can get it into the case some way. I haven't touched my trans minus fluid changes and deleting the accumulator valve.
I have a 08 tsx 6-speed (modded) and I'm at 190K on the stock clutch and flywheel also, so yeah I don't really hammer on my vehicles at least not my daily's lol.

 

into the trans or into the clutch?
the quill is probably wearing either way. It’s a wear item. And why every other vehicle it’s a $30 part you change with a clutch job held on with a couple bolts.

except here. Would be the same idea if they made an engine oil filter integrated and not removable or weld wheels to the hub at factory.

I guess kinda like how on 4th gen they welded hitch to frame.

didn’t beat on my truck it still ended up chirping even though flywheel and clutch looked fine. Flywheel looked new machining marks visible. Clutch had lots of friction material.