Possible Cab mount chop?

Hi there!
Currently running stock wheels with a +30mm offset (or +25mm one of the two), 285/70/17s with a 3.5in lift kit. IF I didn't have these 1.5in spacers in they would be a nightmare on the rubbing issue, currently they rub on the cab mount. With the 1.5in spacers I currently have a -8mm offset (or a -13mm) and it just so barely rubs on the cab mount while turning all the way left or right. Would getting a wheel with a negative offset such as in the range of -12 thru -20 fix my rubbing issue with the cab mount? I don't mind trimming the fender or plastic parts, what would be annoying is to do the CMC in general. I hope that running -12 thru -25mm offset wheels will fix this problem. This would also be nice because I could get rid of the spacers in general, but I would not mind running them at all (or a different size) just as long as it doesn't rub on the cab mount. Please let me know Also, if my only option is a CMC then that is fine, I just don't like the rubbing sound when i'm turning into a steep driveway/curb. I would LOVE to be able to take her out off-roading without any rubbing issues, also please bear with me I just bought this truck a month ago.
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running a more negative offset would make it worse.. lmao

 

That is what is confusing me, so instead of going negative I should find a positive offset? I feel with these size tires and a positive offset it'll rub on more components on the wheel well

 

Positive offset - rub on UCA, LCA
Negative offset - rub on fender flare and cab mount

With 285-wide tire, 0mm offset will minimize the amount of cutting.

If your lift kit includes "high caster" UCAs, they cause the rubbing to be worse.

 

Generally you will get the most clearance for the widest range of sizes with a zero offset. Stock is something like +25. You will most likely rub the suspension with your current tires and no spacer. You can run a 255/80/17 on stock wheels if you want to go that route. With 285 im pretty sure you will rub no matter what without a CMC. Do some research. This is the most asked question on this forum. Problem is that nobody agrees and everyone has an opinion.

 

Get an alignment that adds caster. But odds are lifted that high with a high caster adjusted uca your likely chopping especially if you add more negetive offset

 

Thank you so much, I really appreciate your insight on this I will consider getting a wheel with a closer to zero offset...and just play around with it until I find a sweet spot.

 

^Ask any wheeler, any real wheeler. It don't matter if it's 1/4 of an inch or 1/4 of a mile. Clearance is clearance.

 

Clearance is indeed clearance

 

Hell yeah brother

 

0 offset would be the best to avoid the rubbing youre having, but as mentioned, after lifting 3"+, negative offset pushes the wheel out and will rub the CMC more, positive will move the wheel inward therefore rubbing the UCA/LCA/Spindles.

Also wheeling with pressure down vs full 35psi makes a difference too in how much clearance you have, also full ride height on the pavement turned vs offroad dynamically with body roll it can be worse. Youd likely be safer doing the CMC to get the extra clearance, clean up the wheel well and be able to run whatever tire/wheel you want vs being locked into a 0 offset specific setup.

 

Damn I forgot how little clearance I had with my flaps mounted the way rokblokz says. Ended up buying material and remaking all 4 wider for $47. Much more room for activities now. This is the result of 16x8 - 25mm with 255/85r16.

 

Spacers made my 265’s rub on the cab mounts lol

wheel out=wide turn arc and more rub

 

I trimmed the RokBlokz to the second cut-line so it's positioned under the cab mount. I also moved the well nut one hole aft. Plenty of clearance now. Been wheeling for two years in the current config, and the flaps haven't been pulled off or eaten by the tire:

 

Right on dude I'm not hating I just forgot how large the body mount is from factory. Yea people make it sound like having clearance with mudflaps is impossible lol. I didn't have flaps with 35s on my old truck and the paint was destroyed. Not going to repeat that again, just hated the price I paid for the rokblokz especially since I only use the hardware at this point.

I've got the flare and metal under it trimmed at a angle, then I drilled a new hole for the fender mount behind the factory one. Being that it got cut off and used that to mount the L bracket, Works very well. This is the new ones I made

 

^Yeah RokBlokz flaps are expensive for what they are. For my old 4Runner I plagiarized the design with Home Depot brackets and Husky universal trim-yourself flaps. I can always drill another hole in the Home Depot brackets to move it back some.

 

Your spacers is what's causing the problem