Fumoto Fact(s) You Might Not Know

I went with the longer nipple...and it fits guarded under the TRD Skid.

 

I guess you don’t understand how the $30 of cost can be made up through the removal of particular issues that could happen with a regular drain plug. Bet someone here can tell you the time they mistakenly threw out their drain plug because it fell into the oil catch and forgot to retrieve it- ooooops. Reference bullets 13-16 in post #1.

 

I kind of want one just because it makes people mad

 

Hee. It doesn't make me mad, it makes me wonder why?

If you can't manage to put a drain plug back in or you throw it out
It would probably be better to take your Tacoma to the dealer for your oil changes.
Our garage heater burns waste oil so I like used oil.

 

Hey to each their own but what does it honestly matter lol. It’s a simple upgrade that makes the process easier for folks who want that. You can always just go pour oil on your hands if it makes you feel better.

 

Or after you change your own oil for 25 years you get so you Don't dump oil all over your hands.
It isn't a requirement that you make a mess. I worked for a fleet service for awhile so I did alot of changes.

 

Like I said, it makes it easier for HIM. I just find it funny that so many people are getting worked up over it.

 

I just turn the engine on and use the airbox hose to vacuum all the oil out through the valve cover. Way easier

 

Unbelievable that this entire 21-page 3 years-old thread has not a single mention of the heavy-duty spring clip Fumoto makes to help ENSURE that the lever on the valve cannot open accidentally, e.g. due to road or trail debris. This $2.00 clip is about 50x stronger than the little plastic clip that comes with the valve.

Here, fixed that for you:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fumoto-valve.325259/page-2#post-28228005

To be clear, this is an official Fumoto accessory with its own catalog # etc, not some janked-up solution I DIY'ed with a pair of pliers and some fence wire:
https://www.fumotousa.com/all-products/f-lock.html

 

I’m a fan of big nipples. You just have to be careful you don’t poke your eye out.

 

After you change your own oil for 40 years, you realize the worth of a smarter way of doing things. The drain valves are smarter and easier than a plug in the pan.

 

I looked at the TW thread and see that heavy duty spring you're talking about. That Fumoto looks flatter than even the short-knocker stubby one (I got the long neck).

Anyhow, the small handle to open the valve is spring-loaded and according to my son-in-law, required heavy torque push action and side-slide to open the valve.



I'm surprised the little plastic "Fumoto" cover had not flown off!

 

Yep, bought one of these when I ordered my valve. Works positively to prevent incidental opening. I will say that I've used the plastic clip on my Subaru for over 6 years without any worries.

 

OMG!

I'm being serious right now and you're full of jokes???

LOLOLOLOLOL

EDIT: It must be Friday!!!

 

Yes, do be sure to check part # compatibility, the Fumoto "F-lock" spring clip is only compatible with some of Fumoto's range of valves, not all.

Since Fumoto's product is a $30 part with a potentially $30,000 to $150,000+ liability if it fails (causing an unseen oil leak,) I'm sure they have done vast amounts of design & reliability testing, even on this little plastic clip, and it is no doubt adequate for 99.99% of use-cases on paved roads.

But I like the belt-and-suspenders approach of putting the massively-strong metal clamping spring on there for light-to-moderate off-road use. Let's say the truck is zooming at 25-35mph over mostly-open terrain with occasional bushes and maybe sticks/small rocks around that could bounce up into or catch against the valve -- that spring clip will be a lot more likely to stay in place than the plastic clip.

For ultra-heavy-duty off-road use (basically, bouldering & driving over large rocks routinely, where there is any chance of a large part of the vehicle's weight hitting even momentarily directly on the valve body,) I would still go with a plain, solid steel drain plug. But that's in the 0.0001% use-case scenario I personally will never put my combination work/dailydriver/weekend-warrior truck in.

 

Basically a repeat of what I've said before.. they are a game-changer when you have a skid-plate installed. The opening on my RCI skid is only about 2-3 inches wide, no way I can get the plug (and my hand) out of the way in time to prevent splashing. I don't want oil puddling up on top of the skid, and I don't want to drop it every time I change oil.

The worries about leakage or it "magically opening on its own" are completely overblown. Mine has been on since the skid went on 8 years ago. No leaks, no drips, nothing

If you're driving over loose rocks and boulders I'd be more worried something bouncing up and ripping a hole in the auto trans pan not the oil pan

 

Please post make/model/part numbers for these parts of your setup:

- Pump
- Bypass filter
- Filter mount assembly

Thanks.

 

I use a small $15 pump from Amazon. For the bypass filter I use an Amsoil bypass filter along with an Amsoil bypass filter mount.

https://www.amsoil.com/c/bypass-oil-filters/31/

https://www.amsoil.com/p/filter-mount-assembly-bk303/

 

Thanks. Does the pump have any special ratings to be solvent-resistant? I mean is it an aquariump pump, a repurposed water pump, a gear-driven pump?

How many hours or what quantity of fluid do you run through the filter before changing the filter?