LC Engineering E-locker Manual Cable conversion - hints tips tricks?

I've been leaning toward ordering this to replace the E-locker actuator in my 2nd gen. My only real concern is cable routing. Has anyone installed one, or had one installed? I haven't been able to find much anywhere. Saw one pic of a Tacoma on a different website with the handle mounted on the side of the console, in front of the front seat, below the drivers right leg. That's where my HAM radio is now, but it'd be easy enough to move. No other details in that thread.

Sounds pretty straight forward other than that cable routing, and I love the idea of being able to lock/unlock anytime I please, 2wd, 4wd, hi & lo.

Let me know if you have any info!

https://www.lceperformance.com/10-E-Locker-Manual-Cable-conversion-p/2051222.htm

 

Good question, I'm curious as well. I would seriously consider this if the price weren't quite so steep.

 

My actuator is dead. OEM is $$$, Aisin is a bit of $300. Amazon special is $100 to $200. I kinda consider the $500+ of this an upgrade over the Aisin, so to me it is worth it. I like the idea of locker anytime.

 

@YF_Ryan
I have this on my truck. Do it!!! I ordered mine directly from the maker, Chillkat designs.
Works like a champ!! I used the 10ft cable option. I have it entering the shift tunnel near the e-brake cable entry- (under the console) and I have the shifter portion mounted on a bracket I had made, bolted at the base of the drivers seat. The only extra thing needed for install is two longer m8 studs to mount the bracket at the rear diff. I also went ahead and put heat wrap on the cable, and exhaust since it is routed near my exhaust in the back. Awesome to be able to lock out anytime. Here’s some pics!!

 

Well executed.

 

Thank you!!

 

Thanks for the pics, exactly the sort of thing I was looking for! I had started thinking that pull handle might be better just yesterday (over the big lever). We'll see if I need to ping you again once I get it.

 

Yeah I opted for the handle over the lever because the lever seemed like it might be larger than I’d like. Feel free to DM with any question!!

 

I actually just sent a message off to Chilkat asking about those M8 Studs. They say they're a complete kit, so I found that odd. Not a big deal, I just want to make sure I have everything when it comes time to start taking stuff apart.

My buddy really liked the way you mounted the T-handle. He's the one that will be doing most of the work and can fab up the mount. I'm more of the "hold this here", "pass me that wrench" sorta helper when it comes to installs, lol. I've had the third member out myself, replaced front hub assemblies, but those were simple unbolt this, bolt this back on sorta things. Be good opportunity for me to learn how to get a stud out, possibly, lol.

 

Thanks man!! The install instructions on LCE performance’s website say you “may” need longer studs for rear diff. I ordered some Dorman M8 x 1.25 x 50mm studs- they could be a little shorter, but the 50mm worked fine... I definitely needed them to make space for the bracket. Easy enough to ‘double nut’ the original studs to remove. Additionally, I rummaged my grommets for the cable entry point.

 

Something like this? or just a straight threaded 50mm like the 2nd pic.










Again, really appreciate the feedback. And super glad you told me it was made by Chilkat. Already been able to find more information, posts, etc compared to looking for LC Engineering.

 

No worries dude!! I’m super happy with mine, and you’ll be stoked to not have to wonder whether it will work when you actually need it.

You don’t want straight thread as you can go too deep into diff. These are similar to the originals but longer on the outside portion. The short end goes into diff. You can probably find them locally, but I ordered these:

 

Mine failed in the locked position, lol. Had to drive 100 miles home on pavement, loaded with my camper, hahaha. I didn't feel like disengaging it manually, and wasn't even sure I could with just my bottle jack. Helped having both wheels off the ground when I was moving it to get the 3rd member in/out...

 

Damn!! Yeah that’d suck. Haha! My back and neck at my age aren’t happy climbing under there for stuff like that anymore.
I had the wheels off the ground during install to check for lock/unlock easily. It takes a few to tune. Once installed, you pull the cablle/handle as you kinda steer back and forth- the cable will then pull out further, and engage the locker.

 

I mean this looks cheaper than putting an Eaton elocker in for $1300 parts alone just to accomplish the same result
Not including labor in setting up a diff

used actuator might work but no garuntees for how long

 

I could just buy a new actuator, just thought this was a fun option to have more control over when/how I can use the locker. Since I'm already re-geared and such, I definitely don't wanna pay the money and pull the 3rd to install a Eaton or Air locker.

 

I looked at aftermarket lockers, and honestly was gonna go with an OX locker, with cable actuator… but have read that the Toyota locker is a stout unit- so I didn’t bother changing when I regeared. I don’t trust the electric stuff to work all the time. This, along with FJ transfer case, and ADD delete makes me more comfortable that it’ll all function when I need it to.

 

rumor has it that 8” is weak, 8.4” stronger, other lockers like ARB air more instant to force on
But again $$$

 

The differential itself is supposedly stronger- but I haven’t broken mine yet. Haha!! If I had, I’d just build a Dana for it. I was just talking about the locker though- they say it’s solid. I didn’t want air lockers either because I’d have to depend on an air compressor and electric to run it. To each their own. I personally just like the simplicity of manual operating systems.

 

Very cool.