Help with Decode of the door jamb placard please

I have a base model, Reg Cab, 4 Cyl, Auto trans, baby Taco. Happy with it.
Recently had the rear axle bearings replaced after listening to it growl WAY too long….
That got me thinking about other routine Maint I might have let slide…. Trans Fluid RR.
So, just as I found when looking for 5 lug axle work help on the web, the trans fluid replacement posts I find are focused on the big trucks. Nicely done write ups, with hints and tips.
Is there something like that on the 2nd Gen forum for the little guys?
I started this quest looking for info on What trans do I have? The forum led me to the door jamb sticker, and of course it uses coded info. Please tell me what my engine and trans are. Sounds dumb I know….. I think the high lighted area is the clue?

 

I can look it up. Have a picture of the door jamb sticker?

 

2.7L 4 cylinder Auto 2wd has the A340E transmission.

 

At the bottom of the label it says “A/TM and then follows the codes for the rear axle diff/transmission.

 

Thanks!
Opps,….. sorry, photo didn’t load 1st attempt. It’s there now.

 

Where do you get a Tacoma repair manual? At the parts counter?
Still hope to find some reports on that job here, but the only mention I have found in the glove box scheduled maintenance book is on the last page, 120,000, “driving while towing”.
Is Dry fill indicating the converter is empty? Truck has 143K on it, runs fine, independent Toyota shop told me to leave it alone…. Truck has NO leaks….

 

https://techinfo.toyota.com/

$25 for 2 day
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$505 for a year

Download whatever you want/need for any Toyota/Lexus/Scion vehicle

I keep a yearly sub just because I look up so much stuff for here and work.

Dry fill typically means exactly that, empty converter and freshly built transmission that has never had fluid put in it.
A pan drop and filter change is typically around 1/3 to 1/2 of dry fill so 3-4 quarts
Drain and fill capacity is pulling the drain plug only and not removing the pan.
More info for the A340 transmission can be found in the thread below.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...sions-write-up-your-4-speed-automatic.325531/

You will get many opinions on this, some will tell you do it every 30-60k (I'm in this camp). Others will tell you never change it.
I'd say if the fluid isn't burn't drop the pan, change the filter, and refill it.

I would recommend doing the other fluids (coolant, rear diff, brake fluid, etc) too if they have never been done.
Also would be a good idea to check the coolant bypass pipe if it's still the OE plastic one as it's a very common coolant leak point on the 2.7L

 

By coolant bypass pipe do you mean the one that leads to the reservoir? If so I can second that since I had to add a ring clamp to fix mine leaking.

 

No, it's on the back of the thermostat housing.

1-3 hr job to replace depending on your proficiency and tooling.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2007-2-7l-coolant-bypass-pipe-replacement-info-photos.805019/

This is what they typically look like when they are leaking.

 

Thanks for clarifying, mines not leaking from there yet but I’d heard about it.

 

Dm93 Thank You for the input, answers, and the links to tech and the 4spd trans thread! This is a big help! I do plan to drop the pan, RR filter, and hopefully get it back together again leak free. My experience so far with this type of work, is that the OEM machine undisturbed as delivered is generally better regarding leaks.
My wife’s V6 Highlander has been a nightmare since the timing belt replacement. Not something I can handle at home. Can’t even find an old fashioned steam cleaning shop to start with a way to locate the leak source. It’s coming up on the 2nd belt job, have a quote, and I’m embarrassed to have the shop look at it!