Let’s see some subwoofer setups!

Amp is in. Created a simple rack out of the leftover birch plywood that used the existing threaded holes from the old storage bins. Rock solid. Carpet simply wrapped around the edges and stapled into place.

Should be able to get the subwoofer installed tomorrow once Amazon bothers to deliver my jigsaw.

 

Sub is mounted and box is carpeted. Subwoofer ring barely touches the back of the seat, so we'll see if that causes any problems in the long run. Now it's time to tune...

 

Any update to fitment and sound?

 

2 8” W3 in JL’s ported box. Pretty happy with the output on these for 8’s. Curious to see how a sealed 10” running off the same power sounds like in comparison. I wavered between a sealed 10 and 2 ported 8s for a while. Finally just went with the 8’s. Running it off a JL XDM1000/5 at 600 watts rms.

 

That’s impressive, must sound amazing. I think 8” subs are the way to go!

 

Well I pulled the plug and here they are the newly installed in my front doors Morel IPBMW82SUB AS MID BASS IN MY FRONT DOORS
I set the crossovers at 70 hz @ 24 db and high cut off at 700 free band pass or not sure if that’s what you call it I turn down the dbs until they where completely off and I ended up with some decent cohesiveness with my 3.5 AUDIO Control coaxials on the dashboard which are set at 450 hz all the way up to 20000khz.my sub is set at 80hz and I cleaned up or turned the eq down on the ranges over 100 hz so it’s now hitting the deeper notes mostly.
I just did the tuning by ear and not using any RTA mic only the iPad app from audio control. So far I am very happy with the fuller mid bass although it is not highly powered to rattle the neighbors doors but rather more SQ. I’m feeding all the channels with a 5 Channel JL Audio XD 1000/5 V2so the Morel mid bass drivers are getting no more than 85 to 90 watts max even though they are rated at 2 ohms each
where as the 3.5 mids are only getting like 65 watts and the Audison 10 inch sub is getting around 400 watts for me is louder than what I can handle so I’m planning to get the system properly tuned and then decide if I need more watts for the mid bass.

 

Nice work!

 

Thank you Corny Taco

 

I tried. If you have the powered rear window motor it won't fit, unfortunately.

 

I went to finally install the box and sub tonight. No chance.

I might could get it to fit if I cut the baby seat anchor, but I'm not sure that is worth it as I'm not sure that would solve the issue. Even if it was that simple, there would be a lot of dead space behind the box. I was able to get the box to drop down almost to the floor by moving the seat-back up and down, but no chance of it closing.

I'm considering ripping down the middle of the box with a saw and cutting out where that support beam is. Downside there is I risk totally destroying the box. Other option is to build custom, which would honestly be about as much work as ripping up the existing. I'm open to suggestions if anyone has any.

 

Is the plastic removed from your seat back? That's ended up being required for mine to fit. Same for the plastic bin part on the rear wall.

 

So my goal was to build a sealed box with regular (non-shallow) subs, maximize volume, and also be able to fold my seats down and not remove the seat backs. Wanted a ported box, but the space it just not there. Many, many hours later..

Crazy shaped back to fit around the hooks and window motor:
Interior with the cut out for the seat bracket:
Inside of baffle:Front:Profile:
End product:

Two JL 10 W1v3 4 ohm subwoofers from Crutchfield, volume was about .65 ft3 per subwoofer (so a tiny bit above recommended), 400 watts to each (guess I just voided my warranty...). I miscalculated and had to cut out the back to get the magnets to fit. I wound using a Bondo fiberglass kit for the cut-outs. Knowing what I do now, if I were to do it again I would use fiberglass much more of it, because the space is tight with 3/4 MDF (as Soundman mentioned previously). I also messed up thinking the grills would fit, so they got bent by the seats. Overall though, came out well.

 

Plastic bin behind the seat removed, but I like the hard flat surface of the back seat when folded down. It holds the fridge nicely.

 

Ah gotcha, I can see why that would be a dealbreaker. Hope you can work out a solution.

 

For those of you that have had an 13.5 or two 10s in the Tacoma. I’ve been debating on doing 2-3 8s instead. I personally love the sound of a 13.5 deep bass but it’s not often I play music that loud anymore but it does happen. Just afraid the 8s won’t thump enough

 

I went from the JL 13.5 to four 6.5” subs and it was leaps and bounds better.

 

There are some really insane 8’s out there nowadays. 8’s can absolutely thump. A good 8” sub with the right enclosure and power won’t let you down.

 

Those boxes slam. Used to put two vertically on the 60 section folded up, but really need back seats. I built a .25 cu ft box for a single 8 as the whole box has storage around it. If anyone has a good recommendation for an 8 that will sing in .25 cu ft, please let me know. My current sub hates the small enclosure but it's as much space as I can sacrifice.

 

8's will thump. A ported 8" will sound really nice too.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13628LW3V3/JL-Audio-CP208LG-W3v3.html

This one sounds surprisingly good for its size

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P3008P/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-8P.html

 

That's great, haha! I miss that kind of bass.