Rod knocking after pulling trailer up steep hill

Agreed!

 

Here's the old and new phaser parts, are these just different enough to cause problems, or are they basically the same?





Here are the old and new bolts that fit in the center of the end of the cam, same question for these bolts, I'm planning on putting all the old stuff on the donor motor and hoping for the best. Anything else I should be looking for to swap/replace?

 

So True! Never mind the stress I felt just seeing the engine pulled. This would have my family hiding as new words would have been invented.

Glad you are still posting. I am learning lots.

 

I don't think they are different, but this is based on looking at RockAuto parts through the years. They list the same parts from 2016 through 2021.

 

What are these little disks, and are they supposed to spin or just sit in place? Both the old and new look the same, are they? The older one is kind of jammed in place, but the new one moves freely, wondering about using the new disk on the old phasers.

 

Looks like those are oil channels. It uses hydraulic pressure from the oil to rotate the cams.

 

We've measured most of the parts with a caliper and can't find hardly anything different. The hollow "bolts" that screw into the center of the phasers seem to be different, what other differences are there?

We're also swapping out the crank sensor thing that is under the flywheel. I'll try to get a picture of that.

 

Did you confirm if timing was correct? Your data was showing about 30° difference. If you look at some cases of jumped tooth out there, the difference is about ~30°.

 

We noticed when we pulled the motor that someone, for some reason, at some point, had the front cover off and it wasn't us. That might lend more credibility to the timing being a bit off, vs just thinking it skipped a tooth for some reason. I have to dig back through the giant manual and figure out how to do/check the timing.

We're putting the cam phasers and crank sensor back together, using the new little disc vs. the old one since they mic out the same. Hope the heck this all works. We'll definitely use the old center bolt thing, since that's visibly different from the newer one.

 

Hope the timing isn't off...being an interference engine I would think the valves incurred some damage if that was the case.

 

If the timing is off, it really couldn't have been off by much, since the thing ran in limp mode. If it was off by one tooth I wouldn't think that would hit the pistons?

 

In post 631, 2nd pic of cams. It seems you showed bank 1 and I see 11 chain rollers (small timing chain) between marks on intake (intake mark looks lined up with a notch on the bearing cap) and exhaust cams.
There should be 12 rollers.
The exhaust mark seems behind and if you line it up, the intake will be past its mark. So you would need to move intake counterclockwise to line up.
It could be distorted image,but this would be a classic example of the jumped tooth.
Make sure cams are linedup and small chain marks line up as well.

 

Okay, so here's what we have, look okay? The passenger side intake phaser off the old motor looked a bit rough so we used the new motor one, but the center bolts are indeed different, so we're using the rest of the parts off the original motor.

Note the cement shop floor, not the dirt outside

 

Impossible to tell from that photo. Skip to the final check on marks on this video. If you did this, it is probably good.

 

This engine has not been maintained in leu of regular 5,000 mile oil changes. I apologize if this has been said already but I’m not reading through all these post. If the dealer has been maintaining this truck regularly I would be talking to them. My opinion this engine failed due to neglect. It was probably low on oil when pulling up the hill pump ran dry and spun a bearing.

 

Can you post a print out documenting all the oil changes?

 

Dealer never changed the filter, though they did the oil changes. Pic of filter in thread.

I'm trying to provide as much information so others can work on their trucks and know what to expect, rather than focus on blame. You can pick up a donor motor from a wreck for a few thousand $'s or pay $16K for the dealer to do it with a new motor (or more), my "revenge" on the dealer is that more people won't be scared to do a motor swap on a weekend. Even if you factor in some motor oil and yes, a filter, you'd still save enough for >520 cases of your favorite beverage

 

OP accepted he may have been screwed and tore the engine out, and replaced. So I would guess it's well past the point of getting the dealer to pay up. For $20k they would seek insurance maybe legal representation, and neither of them are are gonna pay up without a fight.

 

Maybe you should read the thread? I asked questions that I’ve already been answered? If you don’t care enough to read the thread, quit asking questions. There are many answers posted if you care to read.

 

Looks like there is one in every crowd! If you had understood the question you may have figured out I’m trying to verify OP really had the dealer do the oil changes.