Exhaust reroute heat questions

I had the exhaust reroute done to my Tacoma and have been paying close attention to the surface temps around the rerouted pipe.

I wrapped it with a header material which seems to have dropped temps about 15% but I'm not sure what the components surrounding it are rated for.

The temps I'm getting are
- t case closest to pipe temped 190f
- e brake hanger temped 190f
- e brake jacket (non shielded segment) 170f
- t case control module temped 172f
- u joint 165f
- underside of cab temps around 180-210f

The exhaust itself temps at 370-280f the further from the cat I go, and the unwrapped portion immediately after the cat is around 440f which is warmer then the non insulated passenger side, making me question whether the insulation ( 2 inch wide, 1 inch overlap ) is actually worsening temps as the passenger side exhaust temps around 280-290f .

Are these temps within reason or should I likely tear the header wrap off and use some other method for shielding such as the thermo tech 2'x 4" clamp on pipe shield?

 

The only reason why I still didn’t do the reroute, the heat around the transfer case.

I would like to think that the engineers did it the way they did for a reason.

 

I suspect you are charting new territory. I’ve not read of anyone measuring the exhaust pipe and surrounding area temperatures. Did you take measurements before the modification?

Personally, I have not modified my exhaust because it has not yet showed itself to be a problem. I have found the tow hitch and front/rear bumpers to be the lowest hanging fruit.

 

This is mine, which has not failed yet. I could always put some $80 heat wrap if I get worried.

 

I didn't wrap the crossover pipe and haven't seen any issues with T-case actuation or any evidence of the plastic actuator case melting. (And the T-case actuator is the most sensitive part. The rest are metal and don't care about the heat.)

I've had 5.5 years on my current setup and 5.5 years on my previous 2nd gen with a similar reroute (done by the same shop):



Unless you're in a desert environment, the wrap will trap water and rot out the crossover pipe in a few short years.

 

I did the reroute for (1) remove the low-hanger part (2) so I could buy the "taller" transfer-case skid from RCI (without the "bump") when I do buy.

 

I was thinking of doing the Borla Y pipe with my TRD catback. I don't think it's a true re-route, but I wonder about temps with this setup.

https://www.borla.com/products/toyota-tacoma-connecting-pipe-60699

 

I thought that kit came with heat insulation material. Last I recall when looking at them online ...

 

The instructions show some kind of heat shield. Not sure.

 

I believe all of this is unnecessary. I have the same reroute as do others but no one is wrapping the pipe. The heat from pipe causes no issues. Take the wrap off. It will be okay.

 

I went with a 4"x8" clamp on shield. Put that on right by the actuator. Did that about 4 years ago and haven't looked back. I'm also in the desert in AZ so my temps get a little hotter than normal, ha. No problems at all.

I also did it so I could get the flat transfer case skid. Same week that I installed them, they got used, ha.

 

I have never had any issues with reroute. Don’t worry

 

IMHO departure angle is the weakest link when off-roading in a 3rd Gen.

 

I think that is true off all pickups when compared to SUVs especially jeep wranglers. Trade offs.

 

I would do the same thing if I was going to add a transfer case skid, but I have no plans to (yet).

 

Typically the grade of stainless steel in exhaust applications isn't all that resistant to rust, especially with welding and constant heat. The pipe shield will be a more durable solution than the wrap IMO.

The 4th gen exhaust crosses behind the transfer case. Toyota put a brazed heat shield over it (similar to the one on your tailpipe for protecting the spare).

I think the Borla Y-pipe is relatively new. If you DIY the install, the part still costs about double of getting a reroute done at a shop.

If your state doesn't have visual emission inspections, the URD Y-pipe which deletes the rear cats and crosses under the transmission pan is another option.

 

I agree that departure angle is worse than the exhaust dip but optimally you would be replacing both the rear bumper and doing an exhaust reroute.

I'm 2 years into the Borla Y-pipe and haven't had any issues. Agree that the t-case actuator is the only thing that has any concern and it's not showing any signs of excess heat on the plastic housing.

I went the Y-pipe after I had a local shop do the reroute and the weld on the catalytic converter flange failed, resulting in a $2k expense to replace the catalytic converter. I still don't know how they managed to cause that weld to fail, likely too much pressure when holding the reroute in place to weld it, I suppose.

 

I bought some heat shield material and built a shield for the transfer.

 

Pulled the fiberglass wrap off and put a thermo tec 1'x4" clamp on heat shield on it, but that doesn't cover the t case actuator as much as I'd like.

I'm going to drive around on the highway later today to take some temps with this setup, but I currently have the following on order.

- 1/2 and 1/4 ID aluminized heat shielding wrap for the exposed portions of the parking brake cable.
- embossed aluminum sheet for extending the heat shield above the car as well as building a janky shield around the T case actuator.
- m8 1.25 , 20mm flange bolts for securing the improvised heat shield around the actuator.