Inexpensive but reliable 16" wheels with negative offset (-12 or more). Recommendations Appreciated.

I bought my truck with cooper discoverers on it. 265/75 r 16. On the OEM snowflakes. I was sad they were in such new shape because I wanted to put bigger wheels and tires on her. It took years before those tires started getting bald. YEAR and YEARS. I waited so long.

But they got too bald when I was too broke. So to avoid new wheels I got 285/75R16 Cooper AT3XLT discoverers just a couple months ago. Shop said they would not rub. But they do. Inside of the tire on the frame.

SO. I guess I have to buy new wheels anyways with a 0 or even negative offset. I currently have the stock rims of 15mm.

What is an inexpensive but bomber 16” wheel brand/model? I do not care about aesthetics. Ability to lift off the "spokes" with a hilift is handy. 6 lug. Thanks for your help.


NOTE EDIT: title of thread was changed from "0 to negative" offset to now read "negative offset (-12 or more)"

 

Use Vision steel wheels from Summit. They're perfect for you.

 

Those actually nice tires! Cooper doesn't get too much love around here but I'm a fan

 

Wheel spacers

 

A 16x8 4" back spacing wheel works for my 285 75 16's. I can't say they never have made contact with the frame, but I can say it's super rare, maybe when aired down, wheeling and at full lock. Even that is minor, non issue. Daily driving, full lock, no rub. I'm running a wheel similar to this
https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-c...xXhHVXfOtbOUGZYcr8xoCc-cQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

The steel "D window" style look to be inexpensive.

 

Check out this thread for SCS blemish wheels. Great value and usually can’t even see the blemish-
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/scs-blemished-wheels.264466/

edit to add, I don’t know if the 1st gen has the same bolt pattern as the 2nd and 3rd gen…

 

".....4" back spacing..." on the same tires.
That is helpful

• Size: 16 x 8
• Bolt Pattern: 6 on 5.5
• Finish: Flat Black
• Offset: -12
• Backspace: 4
• Max Load: 2200 lbs
• Center Cap PN: PXA8425042

So... 4" backspace is -12mm offset and you rarely rub when inflated. So go with -15mm offsets, not 0. Y/N?
This helps remove the risk of guessing how much i need. Thanks. It think the tread on the sidewall of these new coopers is what the local shop was not counting on when they did their calculations. Do you have side wall tread?

What lift do you have in the front?
I have a toytech adjustable strut with only about half or 2/3 the lift used. nothing more. So maybe 2" or 3"

 

It is an option, but the following are concerns
-1/2" spacer or even 1/4" means you are loosing a good distance of thread on the lug.
-1/2" or 1/4" spacers are rarely hubcentric compared to the much fatter ones that mount the wheel to the alternating lugs on the spacer, not the hub.
-I want to keep the surface of the hub as close to the center line of the wheel as possible so putting super fat spacers on is unwise for me.

If you want to recommend a good hubcentric spacer that is cheaper than new rims I am all ears.

Thanks for the help.

 

Thanks. That was my initial plan, I was posting partly to see if folks here had alternatives and how they stacked up.
I had them bookmarked before posting here. What is the longevity on those?
I think i put those on my boat trailer and they see no use sadly (big project).


Will those spokes/webbing/holes deform or chip if using this to lift a tire? https://hi-lift.com/accessories/lift-mate/

 

https://www.fnwheels.com/ call Dustin and ask him if they have deals going on. Its my opinion but getting lighter than oem wheels that are hub centric like oem wheels but stronger than oem wheels is really the only way for a wheel to be a true upgrade if you aren't they type of person that needs a beadlock type wheel. Dustin is the best dude in the business and he can hook you up with good deals.

 

I will investigate this. Thanks.
$175 is not cheap this year (building a home). I should have upgraded rims and wheels when i had the cash flow 3 years ago.
The webbing/spokes look chunky enough to accept a hilift. so that is good.
thanks

 

Yes. After having coopers on several vehicles last SUPER LONG compared to what cooper estimated and going a (near) decade without a leak.... i am now a brand loyalist.

 

Really the rub is so rare that it was almost not worth mentioning.99.9% of the time there is no rub. But there is evidence that it has, YMMV. I don't do well with offset numbers, so I don't know what -15 would be in back spacing or how common that is. Most of the wheels you find will be a 4.5, 4, 3.75...back spacing, 4" is about perfect IMO. As far as I can tell, a 0 offset on an 8" wide wheel equals 4.5" backspacing. That is the same as stock, so no, I wouldn't do 0. Another thing to consider, the more negative offset you go, the more likely it rubs elsewhere (pinch weld maybe).

I am on OME 882's. They have been on the truck for many years so probably sitting at 2.5" of lift. Lift amount isn't going to have too much impact on frame rub though, unless the suspension never moves haha. Tires are Duratracs, before that I had an older version of Goodyear MT/R's in the same size.

 

I've been using them for a lot of hard offroad miles and they haven't let me down. I haven't tried using a high lift on them, but I don't see why they wouldn't handle it.

 

Yeah. If steel i assume it would not yield

 

What about rough country?
How does rough country compare to vision in longevity and quality?

https://www.roughcountry.com/product/black-daytona-steel-wheel-pcw51-6883

$75 Rough Country Black Steel 16x8 | 6x5.5 | -12mm-RC51-6883 Wheel with Painted and Center Cap is Not Included (16 x 8. inches /6 x 5"es, -12 mm Offset)

https://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Daytona-Steel-6x139-7/dp/B08JHCR2KC

no way to measure this other than ask opinions, thanks for being here people.

 

Vision HD 85 Soft 8 Series Black Wheels with -15 offset sadly are not able to be mounted without a spacer as they hit the brake calipers (front only). I am posting for archival reasons so no one else buys 6 of these and then has to return them. Bummer.

 

In a 16" diameter? That's kinda crazy.

 

Yep I did the same thing. But you can go to oreillys and buy a cheap set of washer style spacers, 1/4" and they work fine.

 

Now that i think about it.... steelies are often a flat wall where alloy is cast with more space down there. I should have know.

I will.... begrudgingly.... try hub centric spacers now. those lugs looked so short the 1/4" or 1/2" spacers looked like not enough lug length. Spacers over 1/2" (with its own lugs pressed into the spacer) looked like overkill putting the weight too far out. But i will. too many here say it is the way to go. thanks.