3rd Gen Moderate Audio Upgrade - Good or Change?

I have a 23 SR DCSB (obviously non JBL). Not an audiophile and not a bass freak - but the audio in this truck just sucks - simple as that.
Confident that I can DIY the work based on past experience and skills.

My goal here is bang for the buck. Below is what I am thinking.

Head Unit - keeping the factory head unit

Dash Speakers - Replace with Kicker/Subaru

Front Doors - Kicker KS 6x9

Rear Doors - Kicker KS

Amp - Kicker Key 200.4.

That’s it. After I install those I would decide if I wanted to add a powered sub like the kicker hideaway 8”, if I feel I want more bass.


Questions:

Would the Subaru/kicker dash speaker also run off the Kicker Key or just the head unit?

Front Doors - I see the Kicker KS in both 2 way and 3 way. Since I will
be adding the Subaru kicker tweeters in the dash - would 2 way or 3 way be the right choice?

Rear Doors. - there are 6.5 and 6.75. Does it really make a difference?

Potential Sub - I have manual seats. Will the 10” hideaway fit under the seat or do I need the 8”? Not totally opposed to using the rear storage but would prefer to keep it. May not add this at all.

Thank you!

 

Don’t get the Subaru tweeters and kicker coaxials

get the component set that includes the tweeter and crossover

 

looks pretty straight forward, you've done your homework on what most people run. if you're interested in 'going off the reservation' a little, i can provide some non-car audio speaker options that could further save you some money.


Questions:

it really comes down to how you utilize the factory wiring. it is best to keep it on the amp so the overall volume will stay the same. jumping one set of speakers off the radio, and one off the amp means you're going to be limited in how far louder you can make the system.

 

So, you would recommend these (in terms of kicker) in lieu of the Subaru tweeters and Kicker KS 6x9?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651KSS69/Kicker-KSS690.html?tp=105

 

Soundman98 - do your ideas add complexity?

I don’t mind tinkering, but I also want to keep this “easy” by my standards.

 

i guess the better question is what's easy by your standards?

 

“easy” to me means not having to modify the truck to make it work. I don’t mind taking things apart, of course.

 

There’s not any more work doing the components, just one extra step in the install. But no modification or anything

 

These trucks come apart so easy.

Ditch the head unit. Get something good.
Get some nice components.
Add an amp
And put in a real sub.
Run new wires.
Add sound deading while you have it apart.

Crank the tunes and enjoy

 

so if i can provide options for plug adapters that would connect to the factory wiring, you would be comfortable with making modifications(cutting/splicing) to those adapters, just as long as the truck-side wiring is left as it came and/or could be easily reverted back to how it came?

everyone's electrical experience is a little different. so just trying to get an impression of your capabilities.

 

Still debating on how I want to proceed here and whether to stick with “traditional” car audio products or look at alternatives. If I continue on the kicker path for door speakers, which KS set would be the one to get for the doors and dash if I am running the Key amp?

Kicker KSS690 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651KSS69/Kicker-KSS690.html?tp=105

or

Kicker LSS269 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651KSS26/Kicker-KSS269.html?tp=105

Appreciate the input!

 

I put Polk Audio DB692 6x9’s in the door even though Crutchfield says they don’t fit. Sounds way better from the Kenwood 6x9’s I replaced them with. My system is basic, mostly everything is plug n play.

Entune 3.0 headunit with AHH harness
Kicker Subaru tweeters (may replace these)
Polk Audio DB692 3 way 6x9 FD
Kenwood 6.75 3 way RD
Kicker Key 200.4 amp with Taco tunes harness.
Fosgate

$310 P300-10T Single 10" 300-Watt Amplified Truck Sealed Box Subwoofer - Black

P300-10T powered sub.

sounds great and pretty loud, one day I’ll put some sound deading material in there.

 

Honestly you’ll be happy with either.

I’ve got the set with the traditional tweeter (not the 2.75”) and I love them

 

the kss690 will take a little more work to wire the included crossovers into the truck.

the lss269 will only require speaker adapter harnesses. all of the oem wiring will work as-is with that model.

otherwise, both models use the same 6x9 woofer, so it comes down to how you like your high range. the kss690 will likely sound a little more authoritative on higher frequency musical instruments, where the lss269 will have less of a bump in the higher frequency instruments, and bring vocals up more to the top of the dash. neither is horrible, just different characteristics.