Using grade 5 in driveline?

I was replacing my carrier bearing yesterday and mushroomed one of those 4 driveshaft bolts while tapping out with a mallet. At 7:50 pm I ran to Ace and grabbed the only 4 bolts that would fit, which were m10x1.0 class 8.8 which is equivalent to grade 5. Will the truck produce enough torque to shear these or should I not be concerned?

 

While you will probably be fine with 8.8 I'd go ahead and source some 10.9 and install them ASAP. I'm not sure what the bolt spec for those are and I tend to over bolt everything. (Always go with 10.9 or Grade 8 stuff) Seems like a pretty critical application.

Edit: sounds like you need 12.9

 

Here is AI's answer.


In other words, 10.9.

Edit: sounds like you need 12.9

 

Yea this is pretty much what I figured. It will have to do for a few days until I get my hands on those though

 

McMaster-Carr is a GREAT resource for bolts and hardware if you don't have a local store.

 

There can be a time that more isnt better. I.e. a 10.9 doesnt always become a failsafe replacement for a 8.8. Sometime too much of one quality can be bad. An example that comes to mind is the Ford 3.0 where the headbolts and main bearing bolts where too hard and snapped. The campaign replaced them with softer bolts

 

Fastenal is available in a lot of major cities

 

What were the markings on the old bolts?

 

Them and bolt depot. Even have JIS

https://boltdepot.com/Metric_JIS_hex_bolts

 

I'm assuming this 11 is referring to class 10.9

 

I just like McMaster-Carr cause they usually deliver the next morning, or sometimes even the same day. But that's probably due to proximity more than anything else.

 

Here is a reference from Toyota

 

Tell me you order from Amazon a lot without telling me you order from Amazon a lot

 

I'm an idiot and don't know what to make of this

 

According to Toyota, the oem 10mm 11 bolt is good for 87 Nm of tightening torque, which means you need a grade 12.9.


Tightening torques:

https://www.fastenermart.com/files/metric_tighten_torques.pdf

 

That could be for something else because the thread pitch for mine is 1.0 and that is referring to a 1.25

 

You still have 3 of the 4 original bolts right? Why did you replace all 4?

I wouldn't be overly concerned if you still have 3 of the 4 original. Order a replacement from McMaster when you can.

I believe they are fine pitch which is probably more important - so that the same torque spec yields the same clamping force as the factory bolts.

 

Didn't want different weights to throw off the balance lol I'm an idiot.

 

Off to Yoda Jim's to scavenge an old driveshaft

 

Wouldn't worry about it unless the new bolt is vastly different length.

I see you are in VT. What is Yoda Jims? A local JY I should be aware of?