95 cranking but not starting

He has fuel.
See post #3.

But what we don’t know is, if he has fuel getting fired into the cylinders. (Injection).
And somehow, he has spark, but still can’t get ignition. Even when spraying fuel into the intake.

I think it’s time for a noid light test.
And maybe even a compression test.

 

Even if a big gasket failure occurred between 2 cylinders I imagine he’d have some stumbling or rough running at idle. If the truck ran with no issues the day before and would crank but not start the next day, it (most likely) will be one thing that happened that is causing it not to start. Thinking of a list of things it could be is probably a good quick idea to rule out possibilities.

I think you’re on the right track with it either being fuel or spark. That said, to rule out mechanical issues you could

Make sure the timing is right on the timing belt and while rotating the engine by hand, make sure it’s not locked up and puffs air each time it should.

You could also see if there’s a bunch of fuel in the cylinders from cranking it to confirm injectors are opening.

Things off the top of my head that I remember could (emphasis on the could since I can’t claim it will cause this) possibly cause things like this were bad coolant temp sensors, bad grounds, knock sensors / knock sensor harnesses, clogged fuel filter, fuel pump that runs but providing insufficient pressure, fuel pressure regulator, unplugged / faulty maf. Can’t say I know much about pre 97 truck nuances, that said. I know that OP said fuel is coming out of the fuel line so it seems there’s pressure at the rail so could either be something else fuel related other than pump / filter or spark or an X factor we don’t know about it seems.

 

Well my truck was running a on the bad side. When it was running it had a lack of power even in low gears.

 

Did you check for a clogged cat? Would it go beyond low rpms?

Was it overheating?

If it was running rough there's a better case for running a compression test - they can be rented / loaned at autopart stores. You need to make sure there's passage of airflow through the exhaust before that will be worthwhile - you can use a leak down tester out of a cylinder on the exhaust stroke. Probably you could run shop air into a cylinder on it's exhaust stroke with your fingers covering the rest of the sparkplug hole to seal it well enough to make most of the pressure go out the exhaust and listen down at the tailpipe too. If you're not sure how to check for the exhaust stroke, just crank the engine over by hand slowly with a long ratchet on the crank pulley bolt while putting air down the spark plug hole of a cylinder and at some point you should hear air coming out of the exhaust pipe more than the intake or back out the spark plug hole (on the compression and power stroke).