30K Maintenance Overkill Recommendations

I change my oil every 5k and do a full system service every 30k on all my vehicles because I'm boring and can't remember stuff on complicated schedules.

My 2wd Taco is about to hit 30k, so I'm going to throw it up on the lift and do the things so I can update my fancy TRD notepad I keep in the glove box. I'm sure some of this isn't necessary yet, but it makes me feel warm and fuzzy and sleep better at night.

Transmission Fluid
Differential Fluid
Coolant
Brake Flush
Air Filter
Cabin Filter
Fuel Filter
Oil & Filter


What else would you do while you're at it?

 

I've tried a lot of stuff, but 10 mg Melatonin works the best, especially if I avoid alcohol before bed.

Most of your list I would typically do closer to 100,000 miles. Surprised spark plugs aren't on your list. They also don't need changed at 30,000 miles.

 

Can we just get one person to never do anything but put gas in the tank and tires. I say it goes over 100k

Another Update - 3rd Gen Maintenance Maps - Get 300k+ miles | Tacoma World

 

I hit 30k on my truck in less than 2 years. That list looks overkill to do every 2 years. How old is your truck? Street truck, or heavy offroad use?

 

I got my truck may of 2020. Yeah, its overkill, but I have a lift... so why not?

 

I changed my oil (10K interval) and air filter and briefly thought about the pumpkins but got tired and went inside and took a nap.

 

A truck rarely fails from over maintaining. Oils are cheap, parts aren’t

 

Power steering fluid.

Change PCV valve. ($10 part.)

Clean MAF & throttle body.

Wheel/tire rotation every 5K, plus check air level in spare tire.

Inspect all front suspension components for wear/play: ball joints, LCA bushings, steering rack bushings, etc.

Rear suspension: inspect rear leafs for cracks/breaks or obvious sagging. Check to be sure all rear suspension bolts & U-bolts are tight.

Check all wheel bearings for play or noise when free-spun by hand.

Driveshaft & U-joints, carrier bearing (if present): Check for play. Make sure all driveshaft balancing weight(s) are still present.

Serpentine belt: loosen or remove & check all idler pulleys for noise when free-spun. Also check the radiator fan clutch for proper spin. (By hand, just give it a spin and it should be damped down/stop in less than a quarter rotation.)

If you have a CCA/battery tester device (good ones on Amazon less than $50,) run a battery cranking test.

Radiator: use a hose or better yet a pressure-washer (gently!) to clean dead bugs etc. out of the front of the radiator.

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If you are pulling the plugs anyway, why not do a compression test at least every 60K miles, writing down the results in a log-book for future comparison. Also consider borescoping & taking video of inside of cylinders & valves. Modern flex-neck cameras are dirt cheap and high quality these days. Here are 2 different people who've shared extensive in-cylinder views of the Toyota 1GR-FE engine (V6 4.0L) engine:

One with what looks like serious head gasket issues (major oil leakage into cylinders):
https://www.youtube.com/@stillincarlsbad5633/videos

One in normal operating condition, doesn't burn any oil or coolant. Light vertical scoring noted on one or two cylinder walls but otherwise normal.
https://www.youtube.com/@JohnDoe-cw3yl/videos

 

Don't forget to drain and fill your transfer case. It takes different fluid than your differentials.

Man, imagine if everybody has this kind of free time? We'd cure cancer in a few months.

 

He said it's a 2WD... but yes, for 4WD owners, xfer case oil.

 

Oops, I keep forgetting these come in 2WD. You've got a good list dude, I think you covered it all.

 

Good luck with the fuel filter.

 

It's part of the fuel pump, "lifetime filter".


Window wiper blade inserts!

 

Trans and coolant at 30K

Wtf lol you need another hobby dude

 

10K..living dangerously

 

Its going to be hidden somewhere with lots of stuff to remove isn't it. lol

 

Deep inside the gas tank.

 

Service is cheap compared to dropping $40k or more on a new vehicle.

I asked around a few shops about A/T flush vs drain and filter.
The response I got back was interesting: skip the full flush, do more frequent drain and filter cycles.
Apparently there is some potential risk in the full flush process.
Some of the trannie shops here won't do it.

Sam's Club is offering a jim-dandy sale on Mobile1 0W20 right now.
If one wants to go top drawer, this is an attractive price, especially when closer to the price of house brands (Kirkland, SuperTech from Warren Oil).

 

Weird to have a truck as a hobby, when on a truck forum.