1999 TRD 4X4 Off-Road Manual SR5

I pulled the trigger and bought some 3k4 paint through Automotivetouchup.com. After researching costs vs final outcome, I decided that it’s going to be a better look and a look I know I’ll like until I’m older and grey. I might as well hit the hood as well while I’m set up for it. I bought a quart and a pint. This should be plenty for the camper shell and hood. $132 for the quart and $70 for the pint with a grand total of $202 shipped. I got quotes of $500-650 from MAACO and up to $1800 from local shops just for the camper shell. I’ll be spending $100 more before I’m done on clear coat and various supplies, but at $300 all in I might as well do it myself. I’m kind of kicking myself though because I should’ve bought a full 2 quarts. If I’m feeling froggy after the hood and shell, I’ll hit the roof up as well. It doesn’t really bug me, but it could look a lot better. I’ll move my project car(‘73 Dart Sport with a built 360/904) over as far over as I can and T50 staple visqueen throughout the entire garage and set up a couple fans for ventilation. They’ll be plenty of space to do the hood and shell. I start a job on the 7th and the paint won’t get here till right around then, so I won’t be starting the spraying process till the 3/18. I’ll have it all prepped though, ready for paint.

 

I just ordered some T1A metal door handles. These stock ones feel a little janky and my driver side needs to be repainted, or replaced anyways. I also purchased black interior door handles and nice black seat covers from Caltrend. I’m going to paint the replacement door arm rest and original passenger side armrest black. Im going for a two tone look. If it doesn’t work out, I’ll respray the armrests back to the original color and buy a new driver side door handle to match the original look. I feel pretty good about it looking nice though. Def better than what I’ve got going on now. I have a dark brown door handle, a tan armrest pad from a ‘95 4Runner and the original brown armrest brown. It’s pretty comical.

 

I installed the new black door handles… Interior and exterior, painted the door armrest and installed the new Caltrend seat covers. I’m happy with how it looks and glad I went with more black interior pieces.

 

I finally got to painting the rear bumper. It looks great. Besides the removing and painting the emblems and painting the camper shell, this pups about done! Well, until I start messing around with the sound system.

 

What made you choose Sem Trim as opposed to Rustoleum Flat Black? Also, did you add any rust primer to rusted areas prior or was sanding enough?

 

I like the finish of SEM paint and had a few cans lying around. The issue is going to be longevity, but at worst it’s an expensive base coat if doesn’t hold up to abuse. I hit all rusted area with a wire wheel and removed as much as possible. Where there was pitting, I used a rust treatment and then painted directly over without primer. It’s rained a bunch since and everything’s fared very well and the paint seems to be holding up nicely. Every surface passes scratch testing. Time will tell.

 

Thanks for the input, I'm planning on doing the same next weekend. Which primer did you use?

 

I used a rust converter, no primer. SEM doesn’t require a primer. I probably will in the future though. I had to respray a couple areas and a coat of cheaper primer would’ve done the same job.

 

I took the truck in to get smogged and she failed… I knew it wouldn’t pass because the drive cycle was incomplete after I did some electrical work and disconnected the battery. I needed to start driving it though. I got a 60 day permit with the transfer of ownership and a recent(within 90 days) failed smog test. Now, the evap won’t cycle and I have a new p0505 code that showed up. All good though. I removed the throttle body and it was caked in carbon build up and I’m going to clean it up and replace the old hoses. I removed and cleaned my air filter and re oiled it. It was pretty crusty and needed a refresh. I’m hoping after I clean and put it back together, the code clears. The evap cycle should complete over time and take care of itself and I’m not going to worry about it… Yet. There’s a few driving cycles that I can do and redo over and over again, that could potentially/should expedite it, but I have 60 days to get it smog ready and I’m not trying to stress over this.

 

I cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the control valve, replaced some crusty vacuum lines and replaced my drive belts. Idle went way up from 1100(before cleaning) to 1500-1800 after cleaning while cold. I don’t think the ecu has completed enough cycles to reset the idle yet. I’m heading out to A Payson AZ in a few hours. I feel like the 800 miles round trip will do the trick. There’s a slight gap between the throttle body and butterfly… Not bad, but not true. I’m hoping that I won’t need to send my throttle body off to maxbore.com and remain hopeful that my file will get corrected and the p0505 code doesn’t come back.

pro tip… People seem to struggle installing the alternator/supercharger belt. Use a 3/8” drive socket wrench and fit it into the supercharger tensioner and pull that thing into position and slide the belt into place. It’s all about the mechanical advantage. No need for two people.

 

Maxbore passed away recently. The p0505 is likely your iac. I just went through this whole ordeal and have a thread on it.

 

I’ve read your thread a couple times and it was very helpful. My IAC was caked with carbon buildup. I cleaned it thoroughly. I just got back from a long trip(950 miles) after cleaning it and the code cleared. Thank you for your thread! I’m sure it’s helped many more people. My idles still a little high and my Evap hasn’t cleared its drive cycle. I’m going to replace the rubber vacuum line at the tank and then do a smoke test. Maybe it’s not completing the drive cycle because there’s a fault in the system? I’m new to Toyotas… I’m learning though.

 

I got into a pretty hectic accident as a passenger in my brothers truck a couple weeks ago while visiting him and it delayed some progress. We hydroplaned and ended up off road, dropped into a 4’ ditch and then barrel rolled a couple times. We both walked away, but with limps. With that said, I finally got back at it with this truck. I got 2 new codes last week while trying to complete my drive cycles… p0130 and p0133. I removed and cleaned both O2 sensors and cleaned my air filter again. I used the K&N oil on the intake and I’m figuring that it could be the issue. For anyone reading this and needs to change out the upstream sensor, take your time and try and be patient. It’s a pita to release the harness from the plastic connectors. Use the appropriate sized flat head… Insert, twist and lightly pull. The downstream sensor will take minutes, plus the time needed for penetrating oil to do its job. Don’t skip the penetrating oil.

I removed the windows, window door and weather seal from the camper shell and went over it with 240 and a 17” sanding block(for the most part). I need to bondo some screw holes that were used to rig speakers to the interior roof and then go over it again with 240 tomorrow and then work my way up to 800.

 

I bondo’d the screw hole and repaired some chips in the fiberglass and wet block sanded down to primer with 240. I’m going to do a skim coat on the roof next. There’s some small indents from the speaker rigging and some previous bondo work that I went a little hard on and needs some more filler. I took off all the weather seal on the windows and fully cleaned the windows and weather seal and reinstalled it. Probably should’ve left it off because I’m going to paint the window trim in the next couple days… oops. I’m going to recondition the rubber with VRP as well it works really well at bringing old rubber back to life. Funny fact… I sanded my fingerprints off today. It was a trip to wash some dishes. They felt soapy even after an eternity rinsing. lol.

I hate to admit this, but I never checked my LBJ’s after mis hearing my buddy who I thought said that he replaced them while he owned it. They’re f’n shot. I ordered the pair and new black bolts today though and I’ll get to that repair the second they’re in my possession. They were $55 cheaper a piece if you ordered them from my local dealers website instead of on the phone directly with them. The only downside is they might take an extra day to get to the dealer, instead of early tomorrow.

 

I went to install some new lower ball joints and the previous owners mechanic welded the passenger side spindle to the LBJ. It was a funny moment after realizing that once again I didn’t fully inspect the truck. All good though. A member here on this site reached out to me and hooked me up with fully built knuckle assembly, minus dust shield for what I’d consider as one hellava price. It came sand blasted and ready for paint with perfectly set bearings. @zippsub9, thank you again! I’ll be installing on Monday.

It’s a big day for my daughter who’s performing in a play today. Otherwise, I’d be installing this bad boy today. I built some set pieces for the play and donated and hung all the drapery for them. Super satisfying to be able to join in and help.

 

They welded the LBJ to the knuckle!?! Would love to know the thinking on that.

 

Yeah. I’m finally getting to it tomorrow morning. I’ll know more after I pull it. Potentially it’s a sheared bolt or maybe stripped out thread… Who knows. All will be revealed in 10 or so hours though. You’d need a good reason though right?!? lol.

 

After pulling the spindle and knuckle assembly, grinding off the welds and taking off the LBJ assembly, it was easy to diagnose… There was a sheared bolt. I was able to back it out fairly easily and after filing down the welds for a bit though, I realized that I’d never get it close enough to perfect too feel safe. I decided I should probably get a new Spindle and knuckle assembly all together. After a couple work related delays, I finally installed them today. I had to get new uni-ball adapters for the spindles and press them in, which isn’t too difficult. Only advice I’d give though, no matter what your setup is, just take your time and make 100% certain that you’re true. Only start applying real pressure after you’re 100% true. I took it on a short test drive and it felt much better. No creaking or weirdness. I’m taking it In tomorrow to get an alignment and new tires. My current K/O’s are a bit dry rotted and replacing them is something that I should’ve done from the start. I ordered new O2 censors that should arrive on Wednesday. I’m hoping that it’ll solve my code issues and I pass SMOG. I’m going to hopefully paint my camper shell tomorrow. It’s ready for paint. I just need to setup the spray booth in my garage and do a final sanding.

 

Just got it aligned and new KO2’s installed. I’m going on a little camping trip this weekend, with a little “easy” off-roading. I’m stoked to finally have this thing back on the road!