Replacing the Steering Rack (1st gen)

I depicted where the tie rod exits the steering rack and pinion boot because this is where the difference between the 2 versions is most easily discerned- for me, anyway. If you've got a 1st gen 5 lug Taco, you've most likely got this style of tie rod (and boot exit), and the 44250-04010 steering rack and pinion. At least that's my understanding.

 

Imma need this write up in a few days/weeks. Just commenting so I can't find it easily later

 

Rebuild kit for 5 luggers.....

 

Remanufactured Gear Assembly Pow 44250-04010-84 | Toyota Parts (mcgeorgetoyota.com)

 

Every suspension on a 5 lugger is unique.....
steer rack , inner/outer tie rods, upper/lower control arms.....
ball joints, wheel bearings, brake calipers, sway bar,

5 lug is from a different generation......T100's, hardbody's, ect.......

replacing that lower ball joints on these is a big deal.......

 

So, managed to pull the steering rack and pinion with the outer tie rods attached- which I can't loosen, no mater what quantity of PB Blast is applied for however long.

Some important differences in the 1st gen 5 lug 2.4 L model: several of the bolt/nut sizes differ from other models and the inventory included in the lead posts to this thread- as does the torque requirements; check the manual for the correct torque specs, as some provided above aren't the same. A few of the tool sizes:

Outer Tie Rod Castle Nut: deep 17 mm socket
Power Steering Lines: 17 mm flare nut wrench (same)
Fluid Line Retainer Screws: 10 mm
Steering Column U-Coupler Pinch Bolt: 12 mm (same)
Vertical Mounting Bolts: 19 mm deep socket and angle headed open crescent wrench

Some glaring differences and issues (aside from size):

No Horizontal Mounting Bolt. No need to remove sway bars. There is no bolt securing the Upper Rag Joint to the Steering Shaft! What does this mean? The Upper Rag Joint will not slide up, out of the way for removal of the Steering Rack and Pinion Assembly; instead, the Steering U-Joint will allow the Steering Rack and Pinion Assembly to be rotated out and drawn off of the Lower Rag Joint Splines. I anticipate this will be a royal PITA when attempting to re-install the Assembly. Finally, the Driver Side Vertical Mounting Bolt is so long it demands the use of a Deep 19 mm Socket- something impossible to fit to a socket wrench due to surrounding features! I was able to loosen this nut with the use of an Angled Crescent Wrench pressed by foot- but have absolutely no way to get at the fastener with a Torque Wrench for re-assembly. I very much doubt applying the Torque Wrench to the bolt head is the same as torquing the nut.

FYI: when applying a Pitman Arm Puller to the job of separating the second of the Outer Tie Rods, the tool slipped over one side of the Tie Rod End, damaging the rubber bushing and jamming in place; after centering the tool, attend closely to any deviation.

 

Touching back in with part number confirmation for my 1998 Tacoma X-Cab 2.4L 5 lugger, for any who can use it:

4250-04010-84 Factory Rebuilt Rack and Pinion Stearing Assembly
45046-39285 Steering Tie Rod End (Left, Right)
90170-15001 Steering Tie Rod Adjustment Nut

 

As stated above, the 5-lug 2.4L does not feature a sliding rag joint. When reinstalling the steering rack and pinion, there is sufficient play to displace the hydraulic lines and hand press the steering splines together if the passenger side bolt bushing is first loosened (you'll be happier if you do this before positioning the part under the vehicle). As it would happen, the bushing on my rebuilt wrack and pinion was misaligned and misplaced, and required loosening to adjust anyway.

My Toyota-contractor rebuilt steering rack and pinion was painted silver all over; handling revealed the rebuild did not include actually cleaning the part before spraying, as silver paint rubbed off easily to reveal patches of oily grime. Of course, the misplaced bolt bushing had to be reseated, revealing even more unpainted part. We'll see if it leaks.

 

Anybody have the torque spec for the steering rack and pinion passenger side bracket bolt for the 5-lug 2.4L models? -not the through-bolt that mounts the bracket to the vehicle frame, but the single pinch bolt that fixes its position on the steering rack and pinion housing. My manual omits this value.

---

Appendation: once the bolt pulls the bracket haves together, there is nothing much to be compressed; I just bore down on the wrench as much as I could without leveraging my body, managed to not twist the head off, and called it good.

 

Amzing writeup. Just what i needed at my fingertips.. u rock. Only thing ill be using my midtorque 1/2 milwaukee instead or one side wrench on other on a few of tbe bigger bolts u stated as well as every other bolt i can fit it on then ill go to 90° one im done with any handtools unesserary my hands stay so beat up from welding an wrenching buncha aito an farm repair an cant take it. It hurts ukno.. wear like 3 diff types of gloves too depending except when i forget an jump on somting bare hamd only to have use a sos pad an kitchen lemon foam soap on my hands... man after years no bueno.. i guess i really shud be using like fast orange when i need it an did back in the day but it wasnt the best... anyhow great writeup i love to read them in my opinion its the fastest way ro know every trick for every vehicle to make the quickest most painless repair and i appreciate it allot. So thank you very much from NC.... also idk if u ever check this thread op but i have a midtorque 1/2" and it looks diff. Was wanderin on the model of urs. Mine is a

$168 2962-20 M18 18V Fuel 1/2" Mid-torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring

2962-20... then i have a midtoque 3/8 which i like think aswell.. those rubber protective covers are really nice thwy make for em have one on my 3/8..

 

For my 3/8 midtorque..

 

The pic is of my buddys truck which has spacer lift i milled down for him to about 1.1" cuz they were1.5 = 3" and had like 4 in body lift.. i made him buy the oem body mounts an wheel spacers no doubt...told him it was just unsafe alltogether.. then his left front wheel fell off LBJ bolts 2 fell 2 broke off.. had to fix the knuckle an the cv axle..plus source new longer version bolts an do both lbjs right.. only to discover the rack seal had been ruined from wrapping under the truckTold him buy some bilstiens a year ago.. nope..im convinced the spaver lifts caused all this...but i will say tall body lifts def make for easier access to stuff an way more head room!

 

remanufactured rack in, the outer tie rod ends were new not long ago so I just left them in for the process. Unfortunately the new rack didn't come with indexing marks so I used my best gues. Seems like there's 3½ rotations from lock to lock so I just split the difference and had my wife hold the steering wheel straight.

There's a few more exposed threads on the passenger side tie rod than before but the alignment looks decent with the eyecrometer, will take it in for adjustment later.

Thanks for the right up Turbodb

Don't forget to check your power steering reservoir screens while your doing this job, it's only three 12mm bolts and a hose clamp to get it out and mine was NASTY.
Before:


After:


Also noticed that my replacement rack looks like Dan's new rack and the Old rack looks line his new one. I think I'll have to rebuild this one and keep it as

 

Take some string, twine, whatever and secure it around the back axle or any convienent point. Bring the string accross the back of the rear tire and bring it forward to the front tire. move the front wheel until the string just touches the outside of the front tire at the front and back and do the same for the other side, draw it up tight. Compare the air gap if any between the string at the front/back of the front tire, thats your toe. It isnt as fancy as a laser alignment rack but its good enough to get it close and down the road.