How to Install? (Pls need help :[ )

there's typically 3 different methods, from least invasive to most:

1. mount with magnets

2. use roof rack braces across the front door openings.

3. drill holes in the roof and bolt through.


1. typically, rubber coated magnets are used to attempt to minimize paint damage (though prolonged use will still damage the paint). in this case, you'll likely need 2 pairs like this to properly support a light bar like that.

$40 Exzeit Strong Magnet Base for Led Work Light Light bar，Powerful Magnetic Mounting Bracket with Protecting Rubber for Off Road Driving Lighting (Two PCS)

https://www.amazon.com/bar，Powerful-Magnetic-Mounting-Protecting-Lighting/dp/B08P38BBNZ

2. something like this(be sure to measure critical dimensions before ordering, i just grabbed the first link i found as an example), which grabs the door frame opening. you'd need to move the light bar forward for it to work, but it's a little more permanent, though there's still risk of damage to the paint surface.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Adjustable-Upgraded-Aluminum-Snowboard/dp/B0CW68CJSW/

3. there's lots of methods for mounting through the roof. some people like using nuts and bolts on either side, sometimes with an added plate of metal for additional support and rigidity. in any case, you'll need to drop the head liner to gain access to the roof sheet metal. my preferred method is riv-nuts through the body, with proper-sized fender washers on the back to aid in distributing the stresses from the light bar. plenty of silicone is going to be needed to seal the holes, and you'll also typically need some tubing risers(nylon, painted steel conduit, etc) to raise the light bar to clear the curve of the roof.

and lastly-- be sure to test the light bar first before going through any mounting effort. many older light bars no longer work, which is how they end up to be so cheap/free.

 

@soundman98 Thx so much for the mini quide I was wondering I have taken a few more photos of it not being on the cab and instead on the frontward area of the topper so I wouldnt have to drill holes into my cab as well as if I were to use the magnet method would holes still need to be drilled? and if so were and if possible avoiding the cab (I got it off of FB marketplace for about $200) I would also like to know how to test it? kinda new to this whole thing and wanted to test ebfore mounting just dont know how. Also if I were to do the 2nd option would the just overall prevent paint damage because thats what would be most keen for me to do.

 

These get my vote, but with the rounded cab sides regular roof racks won't work, no seam. I'd go with magnets, big ones.

 

the core idea is that there's 2 main problems to address. first, it needs to be mounted somewhere. second, the wire needs to get to a switch somewhere, somehow.

that means either it's got to go through the door opening, or rear sliding glass, or down the windshield with a wiring holder like this, or dropped down between the cab and the bed, and brought up through one of the many rubber plugs in the cab floor, or ran along the drivers-side frame rail underneath the truck to a relay under the hood near the battery that would then be controlled by your new switch. or a hole can be drilled right under where the light bar is mounted, and routed to the switch from there.

if you can find any model number or branding info on it, i usually start a google search for "______[brand]____,_____[model number]___, user manual" . many bars have multiple features, with different connection methods to activate different functions. sometimes finding any info on the brands wiring color preference, or a manual for the same series bar, but a different model, can be enough to work out the wiring colors and their specific functions.

as for how to power it, any 12v battery will work. whether that's the battery in a vehicle, or a 3-cell lipo pack like the milwaukee m12 batteries.

i'll use a set of test lead clips like this to connect from the battery to the wires.

$8 KAIWEETS Alligator Clips Electrical Test Leads Set, 15A Jumper Wires Heavy Duty with Protective Copper Clips, Premium PVC Silicone Cables for Electrical Testing, Experiment, 2 Colors 39.6"es

https://www.amazon.com/KAIWEETS-Alligator-Electrical-Protective-Experiment/dp/B08PBHZ4DF

 

Little update it does indeed work I’ve tried all the wires and only one gray one seems to not do anything thanks for the info by the way I will look around on the bar itself to see if I can find any sort of model# because I have found the brand but still looking for a model #

 

In terms of using the 3rd option of drilling holes into my topper for mounting where would I look to find something that could attach it?

 

what does the bottom look like?

 

@soundman98

 

that one appears to mount via the slide rail. many times locally-stocked carriage bolts like this work.


most times 1/4-20 versions of carrige bolts work though sometimes 't' or 'tee' bolts work better, though a carrige bolt can be ground down to create the same thing. i've had to mount a few different items with similar slots, and always go for carriage bolts because most hardware stores have those in larger/easier quantities, where t-bolts are more specialty.

this is what a 't' or 'tee' bolt looks like.


that takes care of the bolt connecting to the light bar. you now need the brackets. iirc, you posted some brackets in the initial post, that were either c-shaped, or s-shaped. those could be made to work, or you can locate something similar to this
https://www.amazon.com/Permanent-Brackets-SpeedTech-Lights-Emergency/dp/B08511M4RP

or this

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Mounting-Brackets-Support-Thickness/dp/B0BDQCW23Y

the second one is actually for mounting deck posts-- sometimes in a situation like this, i roam hardware stores like home depot, and check every single department for something appropriate. many times there's something that can be made to work far easier than making it from scratch.

after that, you'd just need some rubber pads like this, to seal up against the truck, combined with your favorite silicone, and choice of bolts.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-6-in-x-6-in-Rubber-Packing-Sheets-59849/203193498

 

@tcBob i can and so can the other ppl idk also why was my post watched

 

Oh ooops