Serpentine belt shredded and broke radiator hose?

After replacing an alternator it appears the belt wasn’t aligned properly and shredded after a week. It also took out the radiator connection as seen in the image below. Does anyone have information or a diagram of what this hose should connect to?

 

That's not a hose, just a cap on the bottom of the reservoir to allow draining.

 

Did the belt end up behind the crank pulley by any chance?
If so, keep an eye for oil leaks.

The 4.0 likes to suck the belt into the crank seal, which in turn "can/has" resulted in an oil leak.

Other wise, throw a new belt on it and call it good.

 

Thank you. Coolant was completely empty and seemed to spray everywhere so thought it severed somewhere but if that’s a drain ill check other areas to be sure, and check for oil leaks.

 

The hoses going to the oil cooler and throttle body would be suspect for getting cut with a shredded belt.

 

Out of abundance of caution, I'd also throw in a thorough check of all your pulleys, if you haven't already. To ascertain what shredded the belt in the first place, and rule out one being borked and about to shred a replacement belt as well.

Also make sure the belt is routed correctly. It's possible to route it incorrectly and have it still "work"...for a while...ask me how I know. lol

Then start it up with a new belt and coolant filled, and check for leaks.

 

The reason for the shredded belt is entirely my fault - I had my alternator go out over a week ago and pretty sure I didn’t seat all the belt ribs correctly on the new alternator. Heard some squeals a couple of days later that I should’ve taken as a sign, but I think once some drips of water got on it the squealing went away and naively thought it was fine. If I actually investigated it then it could’ve prevented my OH SHIT moment on the highway when the belt failed.

Live and learn. I’ll spend today in the Texas heat performing a full inspection to ensure there’s not additional damage or other problem areas as you and others have pointed out.

Thanks all for your feedback. Really love this community.

 

That's pretty much what happened to me a while back. Changed the belt as routine preventative maintenance, and a day or two later it started squealing real bad, especially with load on the alternator/PS pump. But everything still worked. Took another look to investigate the pulleys and realized I had the belt on straight but routed incorrectly, so it wasn't tensioning as tight as it should. Ate up the brand new belt pretty bad and definitely would've broken it if I left it alone any longer.

The routing isn't super intuitive and kind of a pain in the ass to get right with only two hands. Pinning the tensioner open helps a ton but the belt still has a mind of its own when it's loose lol

 

Click the link in my sig and get a belt diagram sticker. If you have it posted up so it's not a problem, it'll never happen again, like keeping spare parts around for when the old one finally fails so they end up lasting forever.

 

Very handy to have. Thanks!

 

The only damage I could find was a small crack on the side of the coolant reservoir which explains the coolant spray. The majority of the belt was wrapped around the base of the cooling fan and took a while to unravel/cut out, fans and pulleys still spin smoothly, and everything else seemed in tact from what I can tell but I'll probably bring it in to a shop afterwards for a more thorough inspection.

It looks like the coolant reservoir is directly part of the fan shroud and would require replacing the whole thing. The crack is on the slope below the MAX line and only about 2mm wide X 5mm in length. I was thinking of just filling the crack with some hi-temp silicone or epoxy for now with plans to replace the whole shroud in the near future, unless someone tells me that's a terrible idea.

With that said after confirming the crack is sealed and new belt installed, should I just fill up the reservoir and then run the engine until the thermostat opens and just re-fill reservoir as needed? Or is there a better way to do this?

 

I would clean and dry the reservoir inside and out as best you can without leaving any paper towel debris or whatever inside. Sand the exterior surface of the crack repair area with some 220 grit to rough it up and the clean and degrease the area thoroughly with denatured alcohol. When it has flash dried, use a small amount of two part epoxy to adhere a piece of window screen (get a repair patch from.the hardware store, and cut a piece about 1/2" larger than the crack), allow it to dry, and followup with another thin layer of two part epoxy over the entire patch. You can use a small amount (strategic drops) of superglue to make sure the screen is laid flat and smooth against the tank before the first layer of epoxy.

Let it dry for longer than the manufacturer recommends, with the reservoir cap open and loosely covered to keep out junk.

With the truck cool, fill the radiator directly to full, and then fill the coolant reservoir to the cold max line.

This repair may last the life of the truck, or it may last a week.

 

Did the truck overheat with no coolant? Not to be a Negative Nancy, but depending on the extent of the damage, I think I would also be on the lookout for symptoms of a blown HG. Eg the chocolate milkshake, white exhaust smoke, etc...

I'm no mechanic but I am an idiot DIYer who has caused his fair share of self inflicted major cooling issues.

 

When it initially occurred, saw all the dash lights and engine temp high so pulled over immediately and when popping the hood it wasn't smoking or anything. The sprayed coolant appears to be just from the cracked reservoir.

I'm optimistic but will definitely get it fully checked by a professional.

 

Installed replacement belt (I must have checked it 100 times) patched the reservoir crack, refilled the coolant and got the air out, and she’s running like a champ, at least for now.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

 

DIY live and learn. We've all been there I'm sure, one job or another... Happy you sorted it out!