TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

With that in mind, would anyone be interested in selling their studs to some of the guys who have expressed an interest in future group buys? Those guys might be using stock pulleys.

 

91 pump from chevron, arco, or shell. It has mostly been arco do to them only charging me 35 cents total to use my card, instead of $2 to fill my tank anywhere else. No additives or octane boosters. I have come across info that the winter fuels will cause the red hue.

 

if I can find them may consider but also there seem to be other issues with these SCOL pulleys. which one do you go with?

 

Myself, I have the stock pulleys. Didn't even realize when I was making them that there were other options that was a different design half a c*** hair smaller diameter than stock...

 

Yeah, likely not something you would have had to consider. But that also opens up that stock vs the stock pins must have more play in them vs scol. either they are just off, or they made them to a tighter tolerance, but either way sucks. I was considering them down the line, but it doesn't seem like any reason to. @Murphinator issues were even different. I doubt sanding was an issue, but the pulleys being off, someone else pointed out, is more of an issue than the thickness being an issue.

 

I figured I'd drop a note in here in hopes @12TRDTacoma can add this information to the first post if it's relevant enough.

But many of you may or may not be aware that 2012-2015 2G ECU's that have had the TSB update (updated Cal ID) or that have been tuned (most will update the Cal ID as part of the tune) render these ECU's incapable of being converted to the TRD S/C Calibration.

I've worked out and successfully reversed my 2014's Cal ID after being tuned, back to the original Cal ID making the ECU eligible for the S/C update. This reversal will allow the BullyDog or TRD S/C CUW to be applied.

This process will require the ECU being sent to me (at this time) for the reversal process.

A spare ECU will no longer be required if you have been previously been tuned or had the TSB update performed!

 

Great work Justin, hats off to you for that!

 

I didn't know about a TSB... Do you know if that spare ECU I had shipped to you before being sent to me for my 2015 - that you confirmed had the TRD tune and then VIN matched... did that have the TSB? I wonder if my stock ECU has the TSB...

 

To be honest, I've done so many I can't remember specific ECUs that have come across my desk anymore. I suppose that's a good thing?

But if it was a '15 ECU, it wouldn't have been possible for me to update it to the TRD Cal (at that time) if it had the TSB update. Attached are the TSB updates

You can confirm your original ECU as having the TSB update or not by the Calibration ID. Simply use a handheld scanner or HPTuners to "read" the ECU and it'll report the Cal ID. If your Cal ID is the same as "Previous" on the TSB sheet you're not updated.

 

It's funny, your plugs really don't look bad at all. I thought the Ruthenium were supposed to last longer. This reminds me of a similar problem I had at the beginning of the season, iridium plugs, about ten thousand miles on them. Number 1 would just stop working after it got hot. Pulled the plug and it looked fine, nice and tan and with no visible issues. I replaced it with another iridium and everything was back to normal.

 

I’ve had my ruthenium’s in for about 16k miles without issue.

 

I mostly replaced them since I was there. But, I had come across info about spark plugs being bad without looking it. I was told check the resistance of the plug. I check one plug and oil got O.L. witch I don't think I should have received tha measurement, but the misfire followed the coil for my issue.

 

I have not had issues with mine either. But since a failed coil, I was ehh. Better play on the safe side.
But, man with the one new coil and the set of IKH-22 that came with the supercharger kit that I kept for spares, it runs and feels very smooth with the poly motor mounts. I'm not at all saying the ruthenium are bad or sub par.
Not trying to sell anything, just express my experience.

 

When I pulled my ruthenium's they looked amazing in terms of wear. I replaced them with the spec'd iridiums because NGK doesn't make rutheniums designed for this setup in proper heat range. While the ones myself and others have used seem to "work" I suspect they are harsher on the coil packs with no evidence to back that up, but I did call NGK and inquire about using them and they seemed a bit mortified that I was using those in the truck lol.

 

I am getting ready to do an install, my NGK terminals are different than the Densos it shipped with. Does that matter? They are the NGK P/N: LFER7BHX/ 95125 Rutheniums.

 

The ruthenium plugs have a different style too on them. More common on German cars. As long as the coil pack makes contact (it should) there shouldn’t be an issue

 

I've been running Ruthenium's for what seems like years at this point. At least 3-4 swap outs already and all has been good. No problems with coils, poor contact or misfires.

 

Did you ever have the rip packs installed with them? I feel like that may have been what killed mine. I think we should all bug NGK to make a proper plug for our application

 

I did run the with the RIPP packs but mine didn't die due to poor contact issues or corrosion anywhere. They just died due to bad internals (as in the coils themselves). They are resting peacefully in a landfill now.

 

Just picked up a set of Ruthenium NGK’s. I was surprised to see how different these look. Is this what you guys are running or did I buy the wrong part?

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