Any woodworkers?

Finally had time to make some sawdust. Resumed work on the bar top for the deck. Did some sanding and got to the dry fit.

 

So in all seriousness, as I am not paying 4k plus for a sawstop, what are the opinions on Harvey, Laguna, Grizzly etc for a 120v cabinet saw? If I were to pull the trigger on this I'd like to stay around $2500 or less. Thanks!

 

I bought a lightly used Unisaw that's about 20 years old for $850. It's freakin fantastic. I had no concept of precision until I bought it.

 

Thanks for the comment, I'm not a fan of buying used equipment so I'd like to stick with new. But I've heard nothing but good things about the Unisaw. As I've been on hold for Delta tech support for 2 hours in position #1, I think Delta is off my list.

 

Delta has virtually no parts support, it's a Chinese company now.
All are good. But I think if I was looking at staying with 110v I'd probably go grizzly. I think they have more to choose from and have great customer service and parts availability.

 

Yes, Grizzly's customer service is fantastic. +1 and thanks!

 

I have owned a Grizzly 1023RL since January of 2017. I originally went with the Grizzly due to price. I was new to woodworking and could not justify the steep price tag of the SawStop. I had it shipped to my house and everything went very smoothly. It arrived in good shape and the blade was square to miter slots out of the box. I have been happy with it since my purchase, have not had any issues or regrets. My FIL has had a Powermatic table saw for over 20 years and it still runs sweet.

You should also check out the Harvey saws. They look pretty nice. I am happy with the band saw that I purchased from them. Watch the prices at Harvey they jump around all the time.

All the new saws are expensive, so make sure you get the one you want the first time.

A pic from when I first got it. My garage/ shop has changed a lot since then.

 

Ok, so this is the lid for my dads cremation box. The two pieces are screwed together from the backside, and will also be glued. Should I apply conditioner or any type of sealer between the two before glueing? Will the glue stick if I did? Someone told me if you dont, moisture can get between and cause warping, but I also read the glue wont adhere because of the oils and such.



Also, I was originally going to stain it a coffee color, but I dont really know if I like it on my test pieces, so I might just put a semi-gloss protective sealer on it and leave it natural. Would that need conditioner first? I have an old can from previous projects that doesnt say specifically to condition first, so my assumption is no.

 

No don’t seal between. The glue should provide the seal necessary to prevent moisture from getting in between the layers

just my opinion. I’m no professional, just a broke redneck with strong opinions

 

Speaking of urns

had to put down the best fucking dog I’ve ever owned on Monday. Still gutted over it but I’ve been working on one for him too. Wood isn’t done, just roughed to fit in the metal box I welded up. Going to trim it up and miter a frame around it in a lighter color wood so that there’s some contrast

 

Glue is all you want on the joint.

I've never used a conditioner before staining or sealing, so I can't offer more than see what the label recommends. I'm still learning some things jumping back into this.

 

I dont use conditioner on glued pieces, only stuff ive used it on was pine and i didnt care for the result. It seemed to block the stain.

 

I would glue it and screw it. Face grain will glue super strong. Minimize squeezed out and it will hold / look great. Don’t listen to me though, I am just a hack in my garage.

I like the fish!

 

Sorry for your loss brother.

 

Sorry for your loss, condolences.

 

I found that fish in my dads garage. He cut it when he picked up his scroll saw. My mom said he was pretty excited to get a scroll saw because it would make is lure making a lot easier. I figured it would make for a good top piece for the box.

 

Sorry to hear that.

 

A good glue is strong enough especially with screws.

I used General Finishes "Seal-A-Cell" (pre-sealer) and "Arm-R-Seal" on an all-maple desk I deconstructed/re-stabilized/stripped/resealed ... both are designed to augment the color of the wood without highlighting the differing grain inconsistently. Both adhere to wood but not screws (I know you hid your screws) like polyurethane covers the metal. "Seal-A-Cell" first, will absorb and provide internal sealing, 1 or 2 coats of Arm-R-Seal for a surface layer. Apply with soft cloth instead of a brush, my opinion, for better appearance ... test with remaining scrap first.

"Gloss" finish has more finishing/sealing content. "Satin" has light-deflecting parts that make the seal less solid. I applied "gloss" as a first coat of Arm-R-Seal and switched to "satin" for a second coat of Arm-R-Seal to appearance.

Seal-A-Coat and Arm-R-Seal are NOT $3 per can.

 

So here's why my workbench build got put on hold. Garage was in need of repairs, new windows and eventually a door will be put in. Garage was built in the 50s.
Here's the new used windows, like new takeout, two of them are opening casement windows.

What will be replaced.

Lots of rotted wood. I evicted a few ant colonies.

All framed in.

First window in.

All 3 are now in. Windows had a nice nailing flange all the way around so I just used roofing nails to install the windows.

And they open! Old windows didnt open and where just screwed in.

Looks pretty good from the inside. Nice view out and will let more natural light in.

Well that was all this old man could do today, back is fatigued. So it's ibuprofen, some grilled burgers, a shower and chill the rest of the night. Still gotta trim the windows and put the electrical boxes back up. But that's for another day.

 

More of the same today. I still can’t get over how clean the dry joints are using the Domino. Still a lot of work left, but last progress for a while. Leaving tomorrow for 2 weeks vacation of hiking and off-roading in Utah and Colorado.