Lower ball joint PMS

Hello
Considering recommendation from Andy01DblCabTacoma and other places, I am looking to do the preventative maintenance; replacing lower ball joints on a 2002 PreRunner 4cyl 2.7
I've checked out a few "how to" videos, might be something I can tackle myself.

To verify, are these the correct OEM part numbers?
Lower left ball joint - 43340-39465
Lower Right ball joint - 43330-39585

Most vids show use of an impact wrench to remove the 4 bolts and castle nut.
I have an electric one that is rated at 230ft lbs. Will that be enough to remove the old bolts provided they are treated with rust treatment e.g. blaster?

I don't recall any of the vids mentioning doing alignment afterwards. Is that required?

Any helpful hints or other tips?

thanks

 

The impact will be more than enough. Just make sure you have a decent set of 6-sided sockets. Removing the tapered studs is by far the "hardest" part- so renting/buying the right tools for that are key. I usually combine methods- use one of the pullers to put pressure on the studs, and then give things a solid whack with a 5lbs hammer (not a dead blow), and they come right apart.

You shouldn't need an alignment afterwards.

Do one side at a time. The first side / first time is going to take a lot longer as you'll be figuring it out as you go. The other side will be a lot quicker.

 

No alignment needed.

Quick 15min job each side.

If you're worried about the bolts being seized, just hit them with penetrating fluid 24 hours prior to let them soak.

 

Thanks for info so far.

Do those part numbers look good?

or is it these -

Lower left ball joint

$136 43340-39436 Ball Joint Assembly

43340-39436
Lower Right ball joint

$215 43330-39556 Suspension Ball Joint

43330-39556

 

The fun part will be getting the ball joints to break loose out of the tapered hole once the castle nut is loose. Leave the castle nut on, flush with the top of the threads so it doesn't mushroom, get a good puller on it and get as much pressure as possible (pullers will break, don't ask how I know.) Apply lots of heat and impacts with a BAH around where the ball joint goes into the spindle. You might get lucky and it will fall right out, but I spent hours just getting TRE's to fall out.

 

The part numbers you've listed are the ones I used on my '98 4runner. While they may work on a Tacoma, they certainly will not be a 'beefy" as the ones for the truck.

Here is what I used on my '02 Tacoma:

Tacoma Passenger side (RH)

$215 43330-39556 Suspension Ball Joint

43330-39556
Tacoma Driver side (LH)

$136 43340-39436 Ball Joint Assembly

43340-39436

 

If one is going to use 4Runner LBJ's, then 4Runner TRE's must be used as well

 

That makes sense. The TREs are definitely different between the two vehicles.

 

Owned both a Tacoma and 4Runner; when I wanted to install my new OEM Tacoma LBJ's on my 4Runner, I found I had to buy new Tacoma TRE's as well.

Same goes vice versa.

But yeah, otherwise both work great as long as they're OEM!

 

Are you purchasing those from a genuine YOTA parts dealershop
They do VIN matches so you know you have the proper part

 

I would expect that would have effected the toe as well and then required an alignment. IIRC, the Tacoma ones are a tad longer and their shape is a bit different.

 

Doing a direct replacement (Tacoma parts on Tacoma), no change. Same for a direct replacement (4Runner parts on 4Runner).

But if for some reason the OP decided to replace their LBJ's and TRE's for 4Runner parts on their Tacoma, yeah I'd expect an alignment might be warranted.

When I installed the Tacoma parts on my 4Runner, I did so as part of getting rid of said vehicle anyway so I can't speak on the alignment part. But I would definitely recommend one you're right.

 

yes, I have done some additional searching and validated that.
thank you!

 

I have since cross checked, the first part numbers I listed were wrong, they are for 4runner.
Sorry about that.

I see over and over people saying replace with OEM ONLY!
I have to ask - If the original OEM parts were prone to this unexpected failure, what makes them "mandatory" for replacement?
Have they been improved that much?
What kind of lifespan can be expected out of a non-oem part e.g. Dorman/Moog/Mevotech?

Mind you I don't intend to do any off-roading in that sense, just want something that will fit and not fail and kill me LOL

 

It's not that a newly purchased pair of OEM ball joints have been improved that we recommend them, it's just that the aftermarket brands quality and design is far worse than OEM. You're really trying to get the best of a bad design. I wouldn't trust aftermarket* LBJs for more than year or two. OEM are going to be reliable for 50-70k before you get into the living on borrowed time zone again.

Some folks who wheel a ton, are comfortable running the 555 brand LBJs, but they also know they need to change them out more frequently. So it's a trade off- use the cheaper ones, and run the risk of premature failure and having to change them out more frequently, or stick to the OEM ones which are generally safer for 50-70k.

* Total Chaos has released a good quality replacement lower ball joint, but it's very pricy. Outside of OEM it would be the only other recommendable option.

 

OEM LBJ can Go for at least 170k miles if rig not seriously lifted above stock height and the roads you wheel upon are not badly roached with holes after holes after holes

 

OEM LBJ are pricey at full MSRP imo
How much are those total chaos?

 

I, and most here, disagree. The number should be much lower than 170k. 100k is absolute max before you're just driving an accident waiting to happen.

I know things are expensive these days, and it might be hard for some to rationalize spending $400 bucks for OEM ball joints, but that's pretty cheap when you think about the damage and safety concerns caused by a failed ball joint on the road.

I don't wanna post a price directly in the forum cause it's likely to change over time: Toyota Tacoma 1996-2004 1ST GEN TACOMA LOWER UNIBALL CONVERSION - OE TIE ROD | TOTAL CHAOS FABRICATION

 

The TC page does a good job of describing the issue with the LBJs in general:

 

If OEM LBJs are considered pricey, maybe that person shouldn't own a 1st Gen