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All Kinds of Stuff Happening with My Suspension

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Miss4x4coma, Jun 5, 2024.

  1. Jun 5, 2024 at 11:41 PM
    #1
    Miss4x4coma

    Miss4x4coma [OP] New Member

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    Angela
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    2009 Tacoma 4.0 TRD off-road
    Ok, I have a story to tell in hopes I can get input in what is going on with my 09 Tacoma. It has been to 6 mechanic shops and stuff is still dominoing. (**breathes in deeply**) ok here it goes:

    I had to stop my truck in a ditch one day. Messed up the driver corner panel, light housing, fender and warped the door jam just slightly. I took it to have it looked at and they said nothing was wrong other than cosmetics (they were so wrong). First thing to go out was the a/c. Found out that to be due to a pin sized rub hole in the aluminum hose. Next thing to then go out, (first problem in my ongoing category of problem, the driver side cv axle completely snapped at the booted joint. When it was replaced, they both did not look the same and I was concerned (but I wasn't the expert). My tacoma drove ok for a while, until I got an alignment done. Before the mechanic could touch the alignment he said I had to have the front wheel bearings and ball joints replaced because one of them were almost siezed up. While the mechanic was doing so, he somehow stripped 2 lugs on the passenger wheel (didn't tell me just said they were a b*#[× to loosen) a week later I change my own brakes and I discovered he put over 800 lbs of pressure, on my passenger lug nuts. The outcome of the brake change- 1 snapped lug and another half stripped out, but I was successful with the brake change. A few weeks go by and all of a sudden I lose all ability to brake! No pumping, no nothing. While changing the caliper on my driver side (because I saw brake fluid pouring out and I thought it was a piston seal) I discover that the aluminum brake line was cracked when the cv axle was replaced. Changing the brake pads somehow finished separating the line. I replace that and get new tires. It runs again! And now there is sqeaking squawk happening when I am accelerating or going over bumpy terrain. That sound stops when the truck has warmed up or driven at higher speeds for a duration. And another sound that accompanies it. This sound kind of sounds like teeth slipping and locking. Tonight yet a third noise has replaced the sqeaking, and is now almost like a clunking sound (maybe the soun of universal joints on the drive shaft or the cv axle slipping out of its hole where it attaches before the driveshaft). That sound was gut wrenching. Not to the ears, but to the actual gut.

    Also, just some history on the truck as a whole- the universal joints snapped before, while driving on the interstate, the day before I receive the recall letter for them. The universal joints and carrier bearing are aftermarket parts along with what was mentioned above.

    Can anyone help me figure out what is going on? What could the current noises mean/come from? Is it ever going to stop (domino effect)? I know I have to get 5 functioning lugs on my passenger tire. That's kind of a given. Was I correct on being concerned about replacing the cv axle with a non look alike? Is that the starting fallen domino to this whole current fiasco (besides the initial wreck)? I am done with trusting local mechanics and I am not a mechanic but am getting to become one with everything happening. I started working on it myself due to the fact i can only be mad at myself if it fails in the end. Plus I don't break surrounding stuff while fixing it...
     
  2. Jun 5, 2024 at 11:51 PM
    #2
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    Yes
    Where are you located ? It really sounds like you need a referral to a local shop with a good reputation.
     
    Torspd likes this.
  3. Jun 6, 2024 at 2:57 AM
    #3
    Shawner1974

    Shawner1974 Well-Known Member

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    This is exactly why I don't take my truck to any shop for anything other than an inspection or an alignment. I have always been handy, so I will buy the tools I need and learn how to do it. I've been stung too many times by bad mechanics. Saves me money in the long run and gets me much more intimately acquainted with my vehicle. I do realize that not everyone has the desire or time to do so, so a new shop that's highly recommended is just what the doctor ordered.
     
    Torspd likes this.
  4. Jun 6, 2024 at 2:59 AM
    #4
    deanosaurus

    deanosaurus Caveman

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    It sounds like you have a lot of stuff that is naturally reaching end of life, compounded by some damage and possibly poor repairs.

    Diagnosing this over the internet is going to be... difficult.

    I would absolutely recommend taking this to a reputable mechanic and having them give you a full inspection - doing so up front is very likely to cost less than chasing individual problems one at a time, and let you prioritize what needs to be fixed first and what can be fixed together to save labor costs.
     
    wilcam47 and GilbertOz like this.
  5. Jun 6, 2024 at 6:17 AM
    #5
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Pictures and videos if you can. The more that you can offer, the easier it will be to help.

    Where on the vehicle are most of the noises coming from. Front, middle, rear, certain side?
     
  6. Jun 6, 2024 at 10:12 AM
    #6
    Miss4x4coma

    Miss4x4coma [OP] New Member

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    The mechanics I took the truck too were reputable, several people recommended them. Also I cant afford a full diagnosis. Or partial for that matter. Nor do i have 1 ounce of trust in the mechanics in south Mississippi, in my area. I can get pics/vids in the next couple days if the rain stops. Most noises are coming from the rear I think. That clunk/vibration I felt yesterday was definitely under in the back.
     
    Torspd likes this.
  7. Jun 7, 2024 at 8:45 PM
    #7
    TCTND

    TCTND Member

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    Well, we can all sympathize with your situation but the only real solution, as others have said, is to have it inspected and evaluated by an expert. Some of the possible faults could be down rite dangerous and you will never feel comfortable driving it until they've been sorted out.
     
  8. Jun 8, 2024 at 8:46 AM
    #8
    muddog321

    muddog321 Well-Known Member

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    09 Tacoma DCSB 4wd TRD Off-Road w/e-locker Pyrite Mica
    TW 1-piece driveshaft with 1310 u-joints All Pro and Budbuilt skid plates OME Dakar rear springs 3" with 5100 5100 front set at 1.75" (3rd groove up) with stock springs Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/70R16 2018 TRD Offroad wheels 16x7J with +25mm offset Powerstop rotors with Z36 pads and rebuilt with OEM caliper kit Complete rebuilt rear brakes drums, shoes, springs, wheel cylinders Rebuilt rear diff with Yukon 3.73 ring/pinion Denso 130A rebuilt alternator AGM 24F Battery New OEM idlers and tensioner assembly New AC compressor New PS hose and flushed Walker SS Quiet Flow muffler Denso Iridium long life plugs #3421 (SK20HR11) OEM coolant, cap, and thermostat NAPA CV axles and new seals ECGS bushing Rhino front guard Shortened mud flaps Alziria Black Tail Lights Nilight Headlights X-Bull Traction Boards Maaco full single stage paint job 2023 Nat CV to Knuckle seals 710573 New SKF wheel bearings/hubs BR930978 New Moog stabilizer links K80946 & 948 New MOOG K80819 Suspension Stabilizer Bar Bushing 28mm New Dorman rear wheel bearings using complete axles 926-139 & 140 New Radiator support bushings Dorman 924-267 (front body mounts)
    If an 09 I'd guess high mileage so please tell us actual and exactly list all parts that have been replaced so far so we get a good baseline.

    When they did lower ball joints they took the CV out of the wheel bearing hub and should have carefully supported the brake caliper. Then unclipped the speed sensor in the hub so not to damage the wire. Probably when all the damage occurred they were sloppy/lazy. Most aftermarket CVs do not look exactly like OEM Toyota which have some flat notches on the inner ends so you can put a bar/punch there to knock them out of the front diff as held in by a c-clip.

    If 150k plus miles yes your front wheel bearings/hubs may be junk, as well as your rear wheel bearing which are pressed on the axles so expense for a shop to do. If you have hauled or towed heavy loads the rear differential also has bearings and a pinion crush sleeve so they also could be an issue. Also the rear diff has a ring and pinion that have teeth on them and a common way to break some of them is heavy/full throttle to get out/over something and the truck bounces up and then on road contact snap you broke a tooth or two.

    As others said u-joints and carrier bearing could be bad. If you dumped hard in the ditch did the driveshaft get hit or bent?
    If you or a friend have jack stands get the rear end up on them and in 2 wheel drive put it in drive and watch/listen to the driveline and rear diff and wheel bearing. Do not do this in the garage facing the interior wall to be safe or if you do not feel safe doing it as it can be dangerous. Jack stands must be good heavy duty and securely and properly placed under the rear end like under the spring mounts and U-bolts plate and the wheels/tires clearing the ground so no contact.

    My 09 has 203k miles and if you look at my info you can see all the crap I've replaced.
    Good luck and be safe.
     

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