Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

It is the HST

Talking to my dealer it seemed like a 50/50 thing on doing it at 50 hours which was mostly why I was curious what people did here.

 

By the service manual I'm about 10 hours overdue for a complete fluid change service. I heard the belt squeal for the first time yesterday, so I'll get one of those too.
I've also had issues with fuel, some debris issues but particularly with water in the fuel. So after the second fuel filter change I completely removed my tank, cleaned it and blew the lines out. Then I started using one of these as a prefilter.

$45 Mr. Funnel AF8CPOLY Fuel Filter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SOKE5E I've not had any fuel issues since the fall of '22, probably 100+ hours of use. I also change my fuel storage location from the barn to the garage. I'm still on my original air filter. I've removed mine and blown it out with the air compressor a few times. Depending on how it looks when I get to doing the service I may replace it, or I may just blow it out again, time will tell.

 

The initial service is pretty simple, there are some YT videos that cover what needs to be done. I'd buy the filters from the dealer while you're under warranty so they can't say you didn't do the required service. Having an HST means you've got two Hydro filters so that's few more $$, but for them to do it would probably cost you $$$, vs DIY for $$, I think you'd save a couple C notes. Of course I also highly recommend adding filter magnets to every filter. They can get expensive for the more powerful magnets, but they are a one time cost. Every filter I've opened after service has had a good collection of fine metal shavings lining where the magnets were placed. I used this one on the end of my hydro filter.

$16 Universal Oil Filter Magnet Protect Our Performance Engine Fits: Most Cars and Trucks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016H588VE I'll be interested to see how it performed vs the Filtermag

$139 FilterMag SS Series - Maximum Protection

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VS4L2W2 which have gotten really expensive. In fact while get those links I think I'm going to order these

$17 Junarter 20 Pack Super Strong Neodymium Magnets, Powerful Rare Earth Neodymium Bar Magnets, Heavy Duty Magnet Bar with Double-Sided Adhesive for Fridge, Garage, Science, Craft, Office, DIY - 40x10x5mm

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRSBPLYJ and make my own Filtermag.

Edit: these look like a better deal for the DIY filtermag

$17 FINDMAG 24 Pack Powerful Neodymium Bar Magnets Rare Earth Magnet Bar, Strong Bar Magnets Neodymium Magnets with Double Sided Adhesive - 60 x 10 x 3 mm

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W5BZ9Y7 put together with some Kydex and see if I can make a good filtermag.

 

The hydraulic oil to me is more of a personal preference in my opinion.

I changed mine in my Ford tractor shortly after I got it so I'd know it was new. I've checked it and changed the filters since but have no intentions of changing it anytime soon since I don't use it much.

I figure what moisture from condensation gets in it burns off when I run it, hopefully. Oil has gotten expensive, I saw a 5 gallon bucket of AW32 yesterday and it was $74.99

 

Don't see many, if any other than this one around where we live, it's a cool tractor that pivots in the middle.

Built from 1980 to 1981, 170 hp 7.6 liter 6 cylinder engine, 90 gallon fuel tank, cost $57,000 in 1981

https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/3/8/383-international-harvester-3788.html

 

I tell my wife tractors are a good investment

 

I need a new spark plug coil for my toro timemaster and I am having difficulty finding the oem part number for it, the engine is a B&S 223cc. I found a few no name brands on Amazon that say they fit but I would rather the actual oem one.
I have checked Toro, Jacks Small Engine, and Ereplacement parts.

 

Can you get the model & spec number off of the engine and share it? May be on the valve cover or shroud. Possibly a sticker on the engine.

 

Y’all help me decide, I inherited a Ryobi battery powered trimmer from my grandfather and it does a pretty good job for the life of the charge. I usually end up finishing the trimming with my gas powered trimmer, which I’m starting to think is slowly dying (got a compression tester on the way to check). So I either buy a new gas trimmer and edger attachment for 350ish or buy a new battery and maybe an edger attachment if they have one for the battery powered one which will be a little less than 350 but not significantly. Which would y’all choose? I maintain 2 lots with a total of 5 acres maybe? They usually aren’t cut on the same days and I’m pretty sure a second battery would last both lots for me.

 

Gas is better IMO

 

I'm strictly a gas tool guy as well BUT, I know there are lots of people who like their battery powered stuff as well. @308savage

 

This is what i found but double check.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/briggs-stratton/84005272

 

I prefer gas powered tool for larger lot of 1+ acres. I think the electric stuff is ok for the small stuff and folks that don't have the upper body strength to manage gas powered equipment. My chief concern with the electric tools is the battery cost is high and service life of the batteries is not very good. Where as you can generally tune up or replace a carb on the a gas trimmer for $30-50, and the powerhead will last for years.

 

Heck I'm probably selling my echo pas 2620 with a trimmer, edger, pole saw, hedge trimmer and extension end of July if you'd want to drive to new orleans. $900 for everything.
I think you could get by with electric but if you needed to do everything same day you would need 2 or 3 batteries.

 

These four pictures are all the ID I can find on the mower/engine. Does B&S just have one coil that they use for pretty much everything?

 

Those are squirrely to drive. Articulating hydraulics are so powerful outside of the field it’s like being on marbles don’t try to go down a road in top gear with any other traffic.

 

I can't find anything at all searching any of those numbers. I'm thinking there are some numbers scratched away on the white decal in the 3rd photo.

If you take the old coil off, it should have the numbers you need on it. I don't know if it's a common coil or specific to that engine.

 

Usually b&s cave their model number stamped into the valve cover. You can get all the specs from that number.

 

Nothing on the valve cover.

Guess I'm taking the coil off and hoping a part number is on the coil.

 

Maybe this helps?