Home Improvement Today?

Cabinets

Fridge magnet arrangement:

 

Ripped out our 50year old, way overloaded, cluster of a panel this weekend and put a new one in. Added several dedicated circuits that werent before, PB30 hookup, and traced and labeled. 200A service upgrade is next when I feel like it.. Good times.

 

Just be careful, a lot of cheap Chinese ones get real brittle and break in the cold regardless of ratings.

 

Alright boss, I see what you're saying now. I have this tiny diamond disk for my dremel that I used to make small cuts for the outlets. I might be able to pick up a few more grinding wheels and use that. Oh boy those are going to be a lot of tiny miters to put the edge back on the tile. Guess I need to just send it. I'll post my successes and failures when the project is done.

-J

 

Just try a few cuts and fitting miters dry, see how you like it, always have some waste either way.. project is looking awesome!!

You can also get a diamond file or tile and stone specific sanding at Home Depot or Lowe’s in the tile tool section.. same technique to just run back over saw cut to smooth out

 

I have a outdoor staircase that needed some posts repaired. I'm really happy with the initial results. But I ran into a problem and need some advice.



Unfortunately, when I tried to fix the posts at the bottom, I found out that the problem is much worse than I expected. The stringers are completely trashed. As I pulled the steps off, the stringers would just crumble.



The concrete slab that the stringer rests on doesn't completely cover the base of the stringer. It looks like some of the stringers may have prematurely failed there. What should I do? Note how the end broke off in this last picture.

 

No expert here, but if I was in That situation I’d probably pull all the stringers and trace them on a new piece and just replace them all. Maybe put a paver block where each stringer lands so you don’t get the water rot issue again.

 

Find your most intact section, measure the rise and run and make new stringers. There's no saving those.

 

Id dig out behind it 6 or so inches, add concrete and replace stringers

 

Cut new stringers. Add 1/2" to the tread so the heel of the stringers lands on the concrete.

 

Did we ever get any updated pics from OZ-T? I haven't kept up 100% in here for the past few months.

Here's all that I have to share in regards to house projects not getting done. I've been focused on getting the drivetrain swap done on the firewood truck. I should have scrapped that rust bucket and got something only 15 years old, lol.


I need to set up another tent and just go bonkers with the sanding sponge, this will take too long using the wet sponge method.

 

Planning to knock out patio light wiring today (3 sides to the patio and the roof, planning a door on the 4th side but trailer in the way right now). It’s currently 4 x 3 tube 4 foot enclosures I got on the cheap and swapped to direct wire for LED tubes, hanging by screw down links to galvanized angle leftover from garage door stuff. So it moves a little bit, 4 links on one side, 2 on the other.

I can recycle some leftover outdoor romex and staple it, or use solid metal or pvc conduit but I’m thinking the proper / ideal might be Armorlite?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...Metal-Clad-Armorlite-Cable-68580021/202316370

There is a single flood on a surface mounted round metal box to tap into so that part is all set. And I guess I could do solid conduit to a box or boxes then swap to flex for the junctions to the lights?

@soundman98 will tell me what to do I’m sure.

 

typically, an un-conditioned 3-sided outdoor structure would be referred to as a damp location. it means that there's zero risk of water directly entering the fixtures, but moisture/humidity will exist.

armorlite/mc cable is not really designed for damp locations

outdoor romex/uf cable is mostly acceptable. it meets the damp location rating. it needs to be clear of damage, which is typically accepted as above 8' from the ground. some inspectors will tag it on the basis of physical damage because it's exposed on a low hanging ceiling, so the pvc pipe idea is preferable for that, but generally a hassle when the rest of the structure is usually all romex already.

all depends on how strict the inspectors are.

but either method, you'll definitely want to use weatherproof junction boxes and covers for any splices to the lights.

 

I'd put an extension ring on flood light box and then pipe it on to the side of the beam. and then you can put in a double duplex receptacle in w/p box and in use cover. then use appliance pigtail cords to connect. Keep your options open. Just put the outlets on gfci circuit or outlet. Flood might already be on one.

 

Interesting. I went MC 12/2. I'm not 100% sure if this light circuit is on GFCI yet but that's something to keep in mind.

It's all 8' above the patio. I do want to do a foam seal coverplate on the junction, changed it from round to 4" square, but it's in the innermost and uppermost corner already so not really a major concern.

I have some intention of a barn door to close off the space, already have the hardware, just need to get a door built. The exterior wall is insulated and the two garage doors are as well though those are interior walls. Maybe I get semi-damp status at this point with the new exterior wall, it really changed up that space.

I guess it really depends on the door as to how damp it actually gets. I have some thought of maybe a ceiling heater since this is the "gym" space.

Pigtails seem super yucky to me, hilarious if that's OK code-wise but MC is not.

What I thought I read said MC with dual rated THHN and THWN was OK on moisture but it got confusing at that point and I'm sure I misunderstood.

Thanks for the background. This was already enough of a PIA that I'm not sure I am keen to redo. The fixtures are not sealed at all, have open backs center top (covered by the roof) due to missing brackets and I'm using 4 way push in junctions to get the input distributed to the 3 tubes so I'm sure I'm in code jail already for that one.

I could see an upgrade down the line. Also, cutting MC is no fun, I'm sure there's a tool for that.

 

while THHN/THWN has a rating for moisture and oil resistance, that's only the insulation rating of the individual conductors within the cable, the outer jacket doesn't have a moisture rating, which is what makes it an indoor-use cable. armor flex does slightly better being an aluminum outer jacket, over standard mc cable that uses a steel jacket that can rust easier, but aluminum can still develop corrosion when uncoated.

for the most part, just don't use the outer jacket as the ground, and the corrosion becomes mostly an aesthetic issue.

 

I'll do anything to involve a toyota and my family in home improvement.

 

Hi fellow earth mates.

I need a suggestion for this water supply control which needs replaced. Recently hot water stopped coming out and the movement while twisting this control has gotten sticky not rough it's not metal on metal it's not hard plastic on plastic I think the rubber in the cartridge has gotten sticky. That's my guess. In any case I put a vise grip on the brass nipple tried pulling this out it will not budge, I even soaked her in silicone spray lube. Is there a special tool that will twist this thing get her loose so I can pull it out?

 

Currently repairing a garage that had a lot of water damage. Some from the in-law apartment above pipes, some from the terrible build quality. Redoing first floor walls now, just T1-11 for siding and it wasn’t properly installed. I’m in the process of furring all the 2x4 studs to 2x6 so I can use thicker insulation and heat it.

 

lol

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