BassAckwards' AWD Turbo 2TR-FE

The 20psi range, seems to be where various plastic manifolds exit the chat. Across a variety of platforms.

 

Here is but one manifold, from Malaysia.

 

They make an awesome looking billet aluminum valve cover as well

https://www.cncinnovationsmy.com/pr...nnova-hiace-van-lancruiser-prada-billet-valve

 

Not a bad price considering you get a fuel rail too. I wonder what throttle bodies this is made to fit. That valve cover could be your crowing jewel for your built engine.

 

I was wondering that as well. To me it looks like there are provisions for a larger throttle body or you can use the adapter to use the stock one.

I love that billet valve cover other than the top cover/logo. But I did realize that it won’t work with my setup, as my downpipe occupies the spot where the AN lines come out of it.

 

Have you added to cart and selected Buy Now yet!?!??!

 

Haha it’s been tempting me, but not as of yet. I already have a billet fuel rail and I am wondering if there might be clearance issues with the one I have. It might be better to go with the one Mike has since it was designed around that one

 

Installed my NST aluminum water pump pulley today. I ordered this 8/17/23 and the first one they sent me was for a 1st gen 2.7 taco. I sent in my stock pulley so they should have the dimensions now if anyone else is interested. Cost me $150

 

Dropped my block and head off at the machine shop today. Went with with 9.0:1 CP Carrillo pistons, Pauter chromoly rods with ARP bolts, ARP main studs, balance shafts have been deleted so the rotating assembly will be balanced, +1MM intake and exhaust valves, Viton valve stem seals, and dual valve springs with titanium retainers. I smoothed out some of the casting on the head yesterday as well.

 

All of the goodies!!!

 

This is going to be awesome!

 

This I am pretty excited about! Almost as good as when the turbo went on. Just hoping the weather cools down some before I get it back

 

Exciting stuff man! I’m curious to what your thought process was choosing a machine shop to do the work.

 

Definitely looking forward to the next phase of this build. The pistons are +.020”/95.5mm so the block needed to be bored out, one of the main bearings on the crank was starting to go so the crank needed to be checked and the appropriate bearings ordered too. Also the larger valves require the head to be machined so everything was already there.

I’ll be doing the rest of the assembly when it comes back. I chose a machine shop to do a short block and a valve job for me because of the specialty tools required to do it right

 

Sorry my wording was off. I was asking about choosing the right guy for the job. I would imagine any reputable shop could handle the bottom end but does the head work require a more performance oriented shop?

 

Ohh gotcha, yeah i have taken cylinder heads to this shop in the past to have them resurfaced and crack checked and they have always done good work and were very professional. I was also considering going to a shop in Houston that @Torspd recommended, but this was quite a bit closer to me. I think most machine shops can also do valve jobs, but it definitely is a little more involved when you’re going to larger ones.

when is your build getting turbocharged?

 

I just caught up, looking very promising!

 

Thanks man!

 

The build took a pause since I’ve been moving around. I will be starting with head studs, clutch and fuel pump soon though. I’m limited to outdoor work space so I don’t know how I’ll tackle the welding yet. Maybe just crank up the gas and hope for the best haha.

Why did you go with a smaller turbo?

 

Yeah not having a place to work can present some challenges.

I ended up going with a smaller turbo since my truck has 34” tires and I’m running the stock gears. I wanted a little more drivability and I wanted it to spool super fast. This has definitely not helped with the mpg’s, but I drove it on the hwy the other day and it cruises pretty nice now