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Good gawd

Discussion in 'General Tacoma Talk' started by SomeTacoDude, Apr 7, 2024.

  1. Apr 7, 2024 at 10:11 AM
    #1
    SomeTacoDude

    SomeTacoDude [OP] Well-Known Member

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  2. Apr 7, 2024 at 2:06 PM
    #2
    soundman98

    soundman98 Well-Known Member

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    using a power tool battery is a great way to fubar every single computer in the vehicle.

    power tool batteries average 20v. most vehicle systems are rated to 15v max.
     
    GilbertOz and Bivouac like this.
  3. Jun 19, 2024 at 9:47 PM
    #3
    SH10151

    SH10151 Farang

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    That’s the most California thing I’ve seen all day.
     
  4. Jun 19, 2024 at 9:50 PM
    #4
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    I've seen a lot of customers that are willing to boost their car every day, inflate their tire every day or top up fluids every day.

    Flashy clothes, big house, no common sense.

    I'd do this in a desperate pinch, but ideally with a 12-16v

    20v will start it, but a lot of ECU's will shut down right away unless you take it off quick.

    Nothing will be damaged if the polarity is correct.
     
  5. Jun 19, 2024 at 10:05 PM
    #5
    GilbertOz

    GilbertOz Driver

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    If the battery in the vehicle is at a fairly low state-of-charge, say, at 8 volts or so, when you apply an 18-20V power-tool pack across the vehicle battery terminals there is only a very brief moment when it is actually supplying 18-20V. Maybe on the order of 10s-100s of microseconds before the 18-20V power pack sags under the extremely low resistance offered by the flat/low vehicle battery.

    That is, if the pack is at 19V, the vehicle battery at say, 8V, the difference is 11 volts, then assume the internal resistance of the vehicle battery is 0.02 ohms (typical for a car battery,) the 11V differential will result in a current flow of 550 amps from the 18-20V pack. (About 6 kW.) Never tested an 18-20V 6.0Ah power tool battery but I would guess it sags down several volts (or more) instantly when subjected to that kind of current demand, which would take it conveniently into the safe range for automotive electrical systems.

    Separately: Is it reasonable to assert that ECUs start to just keel over and die at 15V, when the normal charging voltage from an alternator can easily be in the 14 to 14.5V range? Doesn't seem legit. I'd think they're able to withstand voltage spikes/overloads to at least 20V or so?
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2024
  6. Jun 19, 2024 at 10:09 PM
    #6
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    Predator tube steps, Ranch Hand grill guard, Magnaflow CatBack exhaust, Toyota tool box & bed mat, 2LO Module by @Up2NoGood, Rearview Compass/Temp Mirror, Tune by @JustDSM.
    Had a guy come in one time and told us that he tried to charge his car battery by wiring an extension cord to his battery and plugging it in and after that his headlights wouldn't turn off and the car would no longer start. :crazy:
    He never brought us the car but I'm sure all the modules were toast.
     
    I-Give-Up likes this.
  7. Jun 19, 2024 at 10:12 PM
    #7
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    They shut down after 16-18 volts, all modern ECU's have voltage protection. Older 80s and 90s vehicles would get damaged from alternator surges.

    Even if the ECU could handle high volts, it makes sense to shut the vehicle down to protect the battery.
     
    GilbertOz[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Jun 19, 2024 at 10:12 PM
    #8
    GilbertOz

    GilbertOz Driver

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    Welcome to Just Rolled In... customer states...
     
    Dm93[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Jun 19, 2024 at 10:18 PM
    #9
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    No kidding, I had a hard time containing myself when I heard that story.
    He apparently didn't have a battery charger and figured he could just plug the car in to charge the battery:rofl:
     
    I-Give-Up likes this.

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