Tacoma Driveshaft Yoke Flange Bolts

Some asshole crawled under my truck and stole the driveshaft yoke on the rear diff side. Bad news for him is there's like 4 different styles depending on spline count so it probably doesn't even fit his truck... Good news for me is I happened to have a whole spare driveshaft.

What I don't have is the bolts. I pulled the parts numbers and could order them but I'd rather not pay out the ass and have to wait on shipping.

If I remember right these are just four bolts with a lockwasher and nut. Is there any reason not to just go to autozone or the fastener store and buy some 10.9 grade bolts? Toyota wants $12.86 EACH for the bolt/washer/nut...
Anyone know the sizes?

Part numbers below:
Bolt 90080-10294
Lockwasher 90560-10H00
Nut 90080-17239

 

I have a whole bunch of them at home, they're an oddball thing cause they're ultra fine thread, M11x1... you read that right. I can see if I can rustle up a full set for you and send em out of what i have. Have a few 4wd trucks worth I think

 

Lol damn that is weird thread. Man that would be amazing if you had a set, more than happy to pay you for em too! I did find some online from a couple of the 'yota shops but I'm stuck either waiting on their slow ground shipping or paying an extra $20 to expedite a couple of bolts.

It does look like there's a 10mm version sort of randomly on some trucks, I'm gonna grab a caliper when I go by my shop in a couple hours and check the hole size.

 

I get home in a few hours and I'll sort em out of the parts bins and see what i have, should have at least one set of 4

 

Looks like these are the 10mm x 1.0 if you have any. If not no worries!

 

That’s some tweaker shit to steal a flange lol.

Personally I’d stay with OEM.

 

I was thinking of replacing my drive shaft. I have had this slow wave vibration that starts about 30mph and stops by 36mph. I don't think its an emergency its been there for about 65k miles and has never gotten worse. I have read that many 1st gen Tacos do this so It may be a nuthing burger. I happen to have a shop that makes these in town for a rather decent price. I am not a machinist though and I have to provide them the exact measuring specs length and bolt hole pattern I think. I wish I could drop it and take it to them to replicate. Maybe I should do that single shaft MOD and get rid of the two piece.

Anyone here do this? If this is discussed elsewhere in this forum please send me a link and apologies for stepping on the thread.

 

I found a set of 4, message me a name and address and I'll pop em in a bubble mailer to ya this afternoon

 

incredible man thanks so much

 

Do you grease your u-joints? Have you checked them? How’s your center support bearing? CSB most common cause of driveline vibrations.

If that stuff is new to ya I’d start by dropping the shaft and putting in a new OEM CSB and while you have the shaft out you can grease all the u joints and inspect them.
Easy to do in a couple hours and I think the CSB is only like $70. Just make sure you watch a video or check a write up, you wanna mark your shaft in a couple places before you drop it so you don’t accidentally clock it when you’re putting it back on, and you need to chock your wheels so you don’t run yourself over when you disconnect the rear axle…

Could also have a driveline shop balance the shaft, unless you’re modding the truck or have a specific reason I personally wouldn’t put the cash into a custom driveshaft but that’s just me.

 

also fyi even if you carefully mark that sliding bit on the differential end you’re not going to be able to just take them the shaft to make a one piece they would need the whole truck. Deleting the CSB will change the overall length

 

Do you have a couple more of these? And if you do, would you mind parting with them and how much? A couple of mine are rounding the flats on removal. Thanks

 

Just pop one out, measure them, and hit McMaster-Carr.. They'll have 'em at your door the next day...

 

Huh, how about that. That's the first I've heard that these could be sourced elsewhere. All discussion I've seen is that they're pretty unique and stock ones are the way to go.

 

They’re m11x1.0 and not m10x1.0