Motorcycles BS Thread 2.0

Where can I buy a spark plug removal toll (socket) locally? I don't want to wait a few days buying it online.

 

I remember I had couple extra tool kit s from my shadow 750 and cb 125, that was years back.

 

autoparts store will have any flavor of size you are looking for

 

Already, thanks.

 

Correct, south central PA I'm right between York, where Harley Davidson has their assembly plant, and Harrisburg the state capital. Been through Quantico several times in my travels.

 

I drove to Media PA to buy a 1978 Yamaha DT 400, but did not buy the bike, and head back to VA, bought the Honda instead.

 

I had an 04 CRF250X, pink wire mod, 06 250R Cam and 250R exhaust can with spark arrestor (kept stock longer X header for more low ens), did the CCC mods with all jets and main needle including wiring the accelerator pump cam lever, and perfectly aligning the AP nozzle. Amazing bike, the absolute most crisp throttle response ever. Had it 11yrs put ~650-700 hrs on it and NEVER had to rebuild it before I traded it in running (it needed valve stem seals when I traded it). Only had to shim valves when I put the R cam in early on in its life (to be expected with a cam change), then once after that. And this was riding the piss out of it with half n half MX track and trail use.

It apparently was an absolute unicorn with the motor lasting like it did given it's use. I used Rotella T4 15w40 it's entire life in both engine and transmission side.

My advice with the CRF250X of that gen.

CHANGE OIL AND FILTER OFTEN. (Max 10 hrs on oil, filter every other oil change - transmission oil I would do every other filter change so every 4 oil changes).

MAKE SURE OIL IS FULL ALL THE TIME. From brand new mine would chew through almost the full dipstick (from full mark to low) in one day of hard track riding or ~100-120mi of trail riding. Got to remember there is only 7/10ths of a quart of oil on the engine side to lube it on a motor that spins like 11.5k with a very small piston skirt.

IMO for 300 bucks difference I'd buy the dual sport out the box and get rid of the extra emissions / unnecessary street stuff. Also factory wiring for extras etc. That's less than you will spend on necessary dual sport kit to turn the R into street legal. Also the R might not have the lighting stator than the dual sport does.

Really just depends on how much street matters to you, I guess I'm skewed here in CA as it's nearly impossible to make a dirtbike street legal and I kid you not... Lots of cool dirt trails are open to only street legal vehicles (or small key portions of dirt trails are "street" only so the govt can limit how you ride). Needless to say I'll never own a primary dirtbike that isn't street legal as long as I live here in *swallows acid reflux* CA

 

Ya it ain't much but from what everyone has said on the forums it's easy to just add the tusk Enduro kit and a led headlight for about 200 bucks and then you are good to go and have no issues with it.

For me street doesn't matter to much since I got the bolt. I'm wanting to just do more trails and explore and dont need a plate for most of them at all here. Now there is ways to put a "plate" that shows it's for dirtuse and then you are fine as well. Out here in the Midwest we can kinda just do as we please. Oh you don't wanna register that dirtbikes with the gov or put insurance? Well you take the risk here but you do you I guess. Is kinda how it be out here lol


This also heavily depends on what is available around me. There is one dealer with a r and it's a 23 the rest all have the dual sport or a sm

 

You trying to tease me.... cus its working....


Yeah if the 300R fits your needs send it! That is a great bike platform, priced right, similar vibes of the ole "XR250/400" days of the 90s/early 00's of an off road moto that wasnt full send race dirt bike but did the job off road DAMNED good, was easy to maintain on both frequency and needs of care, stupid reliable etc.


Lets put it this way, I have a beautiful aluminum perimeter framed fuel injected WR450 high end dirtbike (read that as an Italian supermodel), and while it is leaps and bounds above the xt225 I have (that hasnt changed since 1986) and I definitely keep/prefer it for strictly off road.... 95% of the riding I do off road could easily be done on ye ole xt225 at 90+% the pace. While weight is definitely a factor off road power really isnt on a moto.

 

So, XT225 things..... When I sorted the pro moto rear rack and extra givi side case / top box from my super tenere as a top box on my XT225 during the time I committed to the xt225 as my "around town bike" after selling the grom I realized the need for some rear blinkers that were visible. Past posts have likely documented my saga of this but I ended up on some of these on the rear rack with a plug to remove the rear rack /blinkers easily in case of full send off road.

$16 ciciTree 2Pcs 12V Mini Bolt LED Motorcycle Turn Signal Indicator Blinker License Plate Lights Universal

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VGZ9THM

That has perfectly worked for my size desires out back on the bike and visibility. They shoot 90* from their mounting post like a normal blinker as well as directly out sideways from the bike. I wired them up awhile ago and have been super happy out back no issues.

Then I realized HOW MUCH BRIGHTER and visible from all directions they were in all conditions given two different directions they projected compared to the cheapo LED front blinkers.

Just so happened on an aliexpress order I plopped 2 pairs of these lil dual blinker sets on my order to the tune of under 5 bucks. Took tonight to wire them up as a "secondary" blinker to the

$10 NEOBEAUTY 4 Pcs Motorcycle Turn Signal Lights Indicators 14 LED 12V Motorbike LED Indicator Blinker Stalk Arrow Light Motorcycle (Amber lens)

LED stalk blinkers (link to the upper ones in pics below I have ran for years on motos) that I have had on the XT225 for some time.



From the side:



Can hardly see the little blinkers (bottom of the headlight) but those are the bright ones in the pics above.





Reason I didnt just fully replace the front bigger dimmer blinkers with the little guys is mounting options. The stalk wasnt long enough to get out from behind the front "fairing" to be visible. I could of made some extensions but went, eh a second blinker in the holes of the DOT reflectors that were long gone work just as good.

 

You guys be careful out there. I was headed into work. Didn't notice the power line hanging down. Caught me right in the face. Stayed upright....just feels like a sunburn on my face now

 

Damn! Glad that wasn't worse. Did you notify police or power company? That could kill somebody.

 

Yeah. Called the non-emergent PD number just to have a report. They kept asking if I needed EMS. I said "No ma'am. I'm headed to work at the freestanding ER....if I need to be seen...I'll do it when I get to work"

I'm surprised it didn't pull me off the back of the bike

It wasn't one of the "normal" wires, it was fairly thin.

 

Thoughts on doing a tubeless conversion to a spoke wheel?
Anyone here done it?

 

I haven't done it, but the previous owner of my F800GS did it to the rear wheel. What was odd though was it still had a tube in it.. so extra insurance or it didn't work haha. Seen tons of people on ADVRider have great luck with the outex kits or DIY with sikaflex and whatever nutty 3m tape they use. From what I gather its just like painting where 90% of the final product's success is in the preparation.

 

The Outex kit was what I was looking at, and saw the mention of using 3M tape as well.
Picked up a spare front tube today and have no idea where to pack the thing, so the mind started to wander off in another direction.
Apparently the X 300 has a safety bead wheel on the rear but not the front. That's just to keep the tire on if it loses air right?

 

The tube is primarily because of the spokes, right? I can't see the tube holding a tire on the wheel any better when flat than a tubeless tire would on the same wheel.

 

Well I used the motool slacker to set the preload on the FZ1. I had it all wrong. I had 48mm of rider sag! To get 35mm in the front I had to bottom out the preload and just got 35mm. There is no more adjustment unless I either lose weight or get different springs. 35mm is what the bike calls for so it’s fine with me. On the rear ohlines shock I didn’t have enough preload so that is a super simple adjustment by turning the knob. This shock you don’t have the collar it’s all hydraulic. Was able to get 10 static and 30 with me and all my gear. I need to take it out on a test ride.
I also installed a stock seat and handlebars. I had 1st gen bars and a Corbin seat that seemed hard to me. We will see if I like the stock seat. If not I will have it customized.
I will do the KLX next week when I am replacing the brake lines.
This tool made it super easy with just on person.

 

Saw this in a fb group

 

Mmmm... not sure cos playing as a pirate gets the most women... just sayin'