6 inch lift to 3.5 inch lift

From a 6 inch rough country lift to a 3.5 inch rough country lift. What a difference

 

In what way ?

 

Just in how the truck drives and handles. I ran 6 inches with 35s, you had to hold on to the wheel with both hands drive long because it wandered on the road so bad.

 

Glad you like it better now,6 inch lifts don't really do well on Tacoma's.

 

I bought the truck with the 6 inch lift already installed. I immediately had a set of custom 6 inch rear spring's made to replace the blocks and factory springs. It did ride a lot better but, were I live is a lot of back roads and it was a pain driving. It would wonder from lane to lane. Power wasn't really an issue the 4.0 and 6 speed manual handles the 35s pretty good. But as I get older I don't need that big of a lift. 3.5 is perfect. Wasn't much to taking the 6 out and installing the 3.5 other than welding in the front rear crossmember

 

The consensus is
-maximum of 2-3" lift
-not rough country

 

That's good everyone is entitled to there own opinions.

 

Kinda factual that rough country lifts are shit though.

 

That's perfectly fine. It's all in what you like, better yet we can agree to disagree. I like the way my Tacoma rides with the 3.5.I've never had a problem with any rough country lift I've had. I've put them on anything from a 98 k1500 to my 14 Tacoma.

 

@Junior19 do you have any pictures or more info on the welded cross member? Looking to remove my 6in lift as well.

 

I wanna see a pic of these 6" lift leaf springs.

 

I had them made by Alcan springs in Colorado, look them up if you don't believe me, I could care less

 

yes, I'm working on uploading pictures now, but I had to get the front factory spindles, both front 4wd factory differential mounts, new oil seals for front spindles part # 710573 National oil seals will work. I lucked out and got both front spindles the 2 diff mounts a cut out factory crossmember piece, most of the bolting and the factory skid plate and bolt off of marketplace. so basically, what i did was removed the 6-inch completely, reinstalled the front diff with the factory mounts and the diff drop in the front and tightened the bolts then in the back placed a ratchet strap under the diff, bolted the factory crossmember to it and let it down until it fit up were the cross member could be welded in place. on the frame side I did have to install a piece of flat plate to make up the difference in the length of the crossmember piece I received. no big deal. I fitted it all up and had a buddy of mine weld it up will i tweaked it into place as needed.

 

I bet someone would buy those Alcan springs in this thread

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fabtech-procomp-6-lift-or-more-pictures.43093/

 

I have a Daystar spacer lift (front) in my truck and have for several years now. I'm not a 'wheeler' but do occasionally go off-road and it's been fine.
Ignore the negative comments. You've made the right move in my opinion and will have a much more useable truck now.
Good move.

 

Appreciate it, I'm not worried about everyones negative comments, like I said before we can agree to disagree. You like what you like, everyone has there own flavor.

 

Lol chill dude. I know they can make them. Just had never seen a picture of 6" lift leafs before. That's a wild amount of arch!

 

why did you have to reweld the crossmember rather then leaving the RC crossmember in instead? reason i ask? i have a 6" RC kit on now and am wanting to go down to either a 3 1/2 or their 3" kit instead

please let me know!

 

My opinion, going back that low and running the lower crossmembers would take away from your ground clearance, and you would still have to run a longer strut to make up the difference. It would have to be basically the 6 inch lift strut