What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Well shit! Where did you get the other codes from?

 

Story time about ToyotaPartsDeal. One time they missed 7 parts in a ~20 part order. When I contacted them they wanted "proof". I just sent them a picture of my box and all the parts evenly spread out. They took two weeks to respond and dragged their feet the entire process refunding me.

I'd probably spent thousands with them between mine and family vehicles. Wild that they treat their customers like liars.

 

I'll shoot you a pm.

 

Damn I was going to shoot you my local dealer because they got it at $507 but it's local pickup only.

 

Bought mine from there last month, honestly thought about buying another and mothballing it in the garage.........but then I remembered I barely have enough for the one I actually needed lol

 

I bet people would jump at you selling those brand new oem tire’s for a hundred a piece

 

When I install the new rack, I think I'm going to send the old rack that's in there now to Solo Motorsports and have them rebuild it.

Sounds like they can rebuild it for right around $350, and they also do something to it to increase the line pressure.

Running 37s now, I have a feeling having a spare rack on hand is probably not a bad idea anyway.

 

Decided to just let it be with the steering rack order. Too much of a pain in the ass to try and cancel it etc. (And let's be honest, it was still a pretty good deal).

But I did get me an even better deal on the PS pump. Thank you @ToyRyd04

 

So what’s the discount promo code??

nevermind. Lol

 

Having this whirring/grinding noise coming around 30-40 mph from the driver side. Checked wheel bearings with the 12 and 6 o’clock tire check, doesn’t seem too bad if any play. Greased drive shaft and swapped a bad center bearing and it’s still there. Kinda at a loss, tried putting it in 4wd when the noise happens and it’s still there as well. Any other tips?

 

Turn the radio up.

 

When my rear wheel bearings got bad they never once had play when doing the 12- and 6- oclock checks.

Mine instead would clunk real bad when turning into a driveway that also includes a slant (incline or decline), as if when the weight of the truck shifted up off of one side and back down onto that side the wheel bearing would give an audible clunk that I could feel through my seat even. Tried a million other solutions to include new leaf springs before trying rear wheel bearings and solving the issue.

So I wouldn't rule out your wheel bearings. Could be worth pulling an axle shaft and inspecting them.

 

Have you tried coasting downhill in neutral? Is so, is the sound still there.

 

Did you check the dust shield? Make sure it's not bent over and rubbing on the rotor.

 

Sounds like a rear bearing to me. I chased my tail for 4 months as it resonated through the frame/body thinking it was the front. Even replaced the front bearings.

Then the rear blew up like 4 days later when I was in trail in Utah.

If you haven't done your rear bearings and you're over 150-200k that's likely it.

 

Highlights of our trail clearing trip from a few weeks ago.

https://youtu.be/DQQ5yNPT8cA?si=PrVLQj6s-mRQ-hb5

 

First time doing drums (also wheel cylinders), first side took probably 3 hours, second side took maybe 45 minutes. Still need to do a ton of adjustment but noticed going in reverse and working the parking brake a ton made a huge difference. The old drums looked pretty great for 230k.

 

Anyone have experience with the "Toyota Genuine MVP" line of radiators (not the regular Genuine Toyota line) being better than aftermarkets like Denso from Rock Auto or the "Replacement" brand from Carparts.com (where I picked up a complete set of best priced Eagle Eyes front/back/side light fixtures for the 1st Gen Tundra recently)?

Have a Denso replacement radiator in the Tundra (from Napa) that's lasted since 2018.

But on the 2004 Taco - swapped in a Denso (from Napa) in July 2020 that outlasted the 1 year warranty but looks like this today.

Can maybe get a Toyota MVP radiator locally on 7/8/24 or 7/9/24 for about $33 more than another Denso from RA that would arrive about same time. But don't think can wait roughly 10 days it took on my last Serra order to get a non MVP Genuine Toyota radiator from Serra on the 20% off sale through 7/8/24 for about $105 more than the Denso. And with this recent experience, unless the MVP will likely last longer than 4 years, seriously considering the $110 lifetime replacement from carparts.com and waiting the few days to arrive and install this weekend....meh!

Looking at these options:

• Toyota: Toyota Genuine #16410-AZ025 for $245.60 from Serra (but took about 10 days to arrive on last Serra order.)
• Toyota: Toyota Genuine MVP #16410-AZ025 for $173 after local 20% discount (hopefully pickup 7/8/24 with 12 month warranty).
• Rock Auto: Denso brand #2213138 for $140.99 shipped arriving 7/9/24 (1 year warranty)
• Carparts.com: Replacement brand #P1755 for $110.45 shipped arriving 7/13/24 (with "lifetime replacement" warranty).

TIA

 

Agreed on the location of the sound being a bit deceiving if diagnosing from the driver seat where it sounded like it was up front. Had similar experience and even a shop giving a free diagnosis couldn't determine after they checked trying to rock the wheels and test drive.

Finally pulled the brake pads to eliminate any drag noise and put all four wheels off the ground. Was able to use mechanics ears (stethesope) to track from front wheels and diff, down drivelines, transfer, carrier bearing and rear diff to right rear wheel where could hear the click and grind.

Swapped the bearing on the right rear axle and that solved it.

 

Yeah I'm pretty sure it is still there, will have to check into that more but I don't think it's driveline related.

Yup I was hoping it was that, but they are bent enough back.

Damn, I'll have to jack up the rear and test that out. I replaced the rear seals a few years back and I believe I swapped the bearings as well