AC not working after three 95deg days

That's great to hear. Ill start off trying the cheaper option with the clutch and see what happens there. OP i'll update this thread

 

Following as my Tacoma is doing the same thing.

 

Ordered the clutch plate, should be coming in tomorrow. Will update if that fixes it! (Will also update if it doesn't fix it)

 

It’s important to put the old shim back in with the new hub. That sets the air gap and you need around .015” to .020” of clearance. You should check it.

 

i adjusted in a simplified way, install the clutch without bolt and no shims, and rotate by hand. you will see that it drags on the pulley face, (engages); but you only want it to drag while activated! so add shims one at a time and repeat; until the new clutch does not make contact with the pulley any longer. insert and tighten the bolt and check again; you may find you need to add one more. You are Not pushing in on the clutch while hand fitting, just holding in place and checking for drag. Remember that the pulley freely rotates with engine, except for when clutch is energized. When Not energized, the clutch face is static; So when not energized, you need just enough clearance that there is no rubbing.

i like this method, because it minimizes the gap to just enough; excess gap will require excess flex when electrically engaged. that excess may shorten life.

best of luck!

 

To tight will give the clutch a better chance of slipping. When engaging the clutch accelerates having a harder engagement. It’s designed for that clearance.

 

I kindly cannot agree entirely. Rubbing would be bad, but the computer prevents the clutch from being energized, when high pressure exists, so the compressor is not under stress when the clutch is initially engaged. The electric magnet generates the clamping force, and any additional gap is only more stress on the flex material (stretches it more), and more tension Opposing the magnet. The flex material is what failed, so less stretch should equal longer life, and increased clamping pressure (realizing the full force of the magnet).

Yes it is designed to the specified gap, as you state; but it also failed. I suggest to use the standard gap as a maximum not a minimum, and I stand firm on my suggestions, no feeler gauge needed. For those that rather trust written instructions, I also agree that any gap up to the design gap, is acceptable. I simply urge that there is no need to be concerned with feeler gauges or how to properly measure the gap. It can be done well, just by feel, with no need to be concerned if you are not an experienced mechanic. BTW, did mine several years ago, has not failed again.

Now keeping track of those tiny and extremely thin shim washers, is something that REQUIRES Attention!! very easy to loose them, and want to add One at a time. When removing the face from the shaft, keep an eye and a magnet handy to remove these shims from both the compressor shaft and in that old clutch face.

 

any update on your repair?

 

@Bigezee @Kindadinosaur
Mine went out this morning, any info would be a big help.

 

Mine AC went out also. Every time I turned on the AC it sounded like belt grinding. I changed just the front plate as shown in the pic and no grinding and works perfectly!

I bought a new belt and going to change it while i am here. quick question...

I of course had to take off the skid plate. One of the bolts snapped off so I was just thinking about leaving it off. Is that ok to do that? I won't be doing any off-roading so no worries there. Just worried about if it will affect the cooling of the motor without it being on there.

thanks!!

 

Congratulations!

Might you describe how difficult/easy it was to replace and get the shims right; for others to better understand how easily DIY this fix is?

I do not think leaving the skid plate off will make a noticeable difference to cooling. Mine has been removed from an '09 for allowing a plow frame, and although the frame makes a turbulence, that is different from just removing the skid plate alone; I can say that I have had zero overheat issues, and my experience includes HEAVY towing.

Again, congratulations on saving a Bundle by replacing only the part of the compressor that failed!!!

 

Omfg, 3 days of 95F+. A Toyota was not built for that. Trade it in for a Saab.

 

The hardest part of if all was routing the new belt.....until...wait for it......after confirming it worked great i went back under to to make sure to snug up everything and i snapped that small bolt that holds it all together. F**ck!! of course with not much room i spent 3 hours trying to extract what was left with some Dremel tools and prayer. It was the difference between a 2 dollar bolt and 1,000 for new compressor install at a shop because that bolt threads into the end of the actual compressor shaft. I finally got 4-5 threads with the new bolt and put a few washers and some RED Loctite. at 136,000 miles it should last another 100,000?

the original had 2 shims in it so i just put those in the new one and it seemed fine and didn't bind at all.

Hell after that mess I will appreciate extracting out just one skid plate bolt that you can actually reach. I kinda like the look of the skid plate the more that I look at it.

Reminder to buy a 90' drill next time. Maybe Harbor Freight has one.

 

Yep! Sorry everyone waiting. Was also moving the past week

The clutch plate I ordered fixed my issue immediately. No squeal or any issues. Was an extremely simple fix and for $50 a good starting point to fix

For me I just looked to see how many shims were in the one I took off, and I put that many back on the new one (it was 2 for me)
I didn't mess with tolerances or anything, should I? Probably but I cant be assed to do that lol

 

I had the clutch plate melt on my second gen