TRD Off-Road vs. 20 TRD Pro Wheels - Weight Comparison

100% agree with you. FWIW I really do feel a performance difference when the tank is full vs empty. My Taco is a manual, so when I shift on a full tank vs empty I can feel the weight difference through the gears. Shifts when empty do feel a lot smoother and the acceleration is quicker and smoother. I also wonder how the weight of other aftermarket off-road (Methods, Black Rhino, SCS etc) wheels compares to this.

 

I can confirm the weight of the wheel is correct as I weighed mine on a postal scale and got basically the same weight (this is without the center cap). The center cap adds about 2.5 ounces.

I find it funny how people say less unsprung weight doesn’t really make a difference. These same people obviously have never tracked or raced a car. As little as a pound makes a difference on the track and can also be felt. Yes, won’t make a lot of difference on a heavy truck but any unsprung weight you can loose (like these wheels and going with a lighter weight tire) adds up. I dropped right at 10 pounds by switching to these wheels and going with a lighter tire. Easily noticed it while driving as the truck handles better and doesn’t gear hunt as much (even with my 4.88 gears). And I think these wheels also look great!

 

Roughly, 10lbs of rotation weight is equal to 100lb chassis weight.

 

When I said I saved 10 pounds, that was 10 pounds per corner. So according to your estimate, that would be like taking 400 pounds off of the chassis. Pretty substantial.

 

What tires did you go with to save that much weight?

 

Does anyone know how much the 17" TRD Pro Wheels that come on the 4Runner weigh?
Thank-You

 

Read though this thread https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-specs.30754/

 

Just under 25 pounds (24.8) so just under 4 pounds more than the 2020+ Taco Pro rims.

 

Cooper AT3 XLT tires. Great tire and one of the lightest 285/75r16 E load tires available.

 

Got it. Not looking to lift or do cab mount modifications and am looking to keep weight down as much as possible so I went with Cooper Discoverer AT3 4S in 265/75. Seems to only weigh a few pounds more than the stock Pro/OR tires so with the added wheel weight loss it should balance out.

 

FYI- lifting a truck doesn’t help with fitting larger tires. When your lifted suspension compresses it will end up in the same location it was at before the lift. So many people think lifting a truck helps in fitting larger tires when in reality it doesn’t. Something to keep in mind if you ever decide to move up to a larger tire.

Those Coopers are also a good tire. Going with a 265/75 is a great choice especially if you don’t plan on doing too much off roading and also don’t plan on regearing which is something you might need to do depending on how much weight you add (armor, bumpers, winch, etc.) when going with something larger than a 265/75. Ran a 265/75 tire on the wife’s Pro Taco and it was a great size for the stock truck.

If you ever do decide to move up to a 285 tire the XLT is a nice option and when using the Pro Taco rims you won’t have any rubbing anywhere and won’t have to worry about a CMC.

Happy trails!

 

Thanks! Do you know if the 21 4Runner 17" Pro Wheels are Lighter?

 

Thanks

 

Not sure as I haven’t paid too much attention to them but do think the look is a nice upgrade from the originals. We do a fair amount of overlanding and having more tire is a big plus so that was another reasons why we sold our 17” Pro 4Runner rims and went with these new 16” Pro Taco rims. Much happier with them!

 

Shock tuning is affected by a change in wheel weight perhaps more than rotational mass changes handling. As the weight of a wheel decreases, you need less compression and more rebound: Less compression resistance because a lighter wheel cannot kick against your springs as hard, and and more rebound because your springs can kick against your lighter wheels and tires more effectively.

Lighter wheels are not always better. Most shocks are not adjustable. They were factory tuned for an assumed wheel and tire weight. That said, most shocks are tuned for comfort and not performance, and more relative compression can be a good thing.

Heavier wheels are also better for crawling. Shannon Campbell of W.E.ROCK was known to fill his tires with steel shot or water for these reasons: Heavier wheels and tires fight against a vehicle's tendency to tip in off-camber situations, and they press harder on the tire tread after the sprung weight of the vehicle has pulled away in uneven terrain. This is also why preload is important in springs.

 

Thanks for this. I looked everywhere for OR wheel weights!

 

Having just switched from '19 OR wheels/Wranglers to '20 Pro wheels/Defenders of the same size, it is clear that even a small weight reduction (and less rolling resistance in the case of the Defenders) makes a big difference in ride quality and efficiency. The truck is just more nimble with the new combo. Lighter off the line, holds higher gears better on slight inclines, and rolls forever. The only down side is that potholes/imperfections are slightly more jolting than before. Glad I made the change.

 

Well I can confirm that TRD Pro Wheels (

$278 PT946-35200-02 w/Center Cap

PT946-35200-02) installed in July of '21 have not faired the greatest against "pot holes" or whatever - as I do NOT know the cause specifically? I certainly never damaged the tires, I have no air leaks, tires maintain pressure, etc.
Anyway, had balance issues and my local tire guy said, "We moved the two worst back to the back so you don't feel it as much - you have two bent rims" "WTH!?" was my response - my mind racing to think of event(s) that could've done this? Nothing really stood out that I haven't done in other trucks - doing truck things, trails, dirt roads, hwy. He just shrugged. I walked away miffed, wondering if a chance he might be covering up for a new tech?

Sure enough, when I rotated those wheels back to front during DIY oil change 5000 miles later... it wasn't long before quite noticeable steering wheels shakes on the road when leaving the house - when hitting 60mph and higher - arggghhh!.

I followed this video's method - and damn, if the two wheels didn't come up "bent" (other 2 passed, one being especially good) - actually they are egg shaped, in manner of speaking. Wheel Repair place said it would at least be $150 range to fix (he runs the same wheels on his Taco) - brand new one from Bam parts are $193 (cheapest I could find - used market no one wants to sell only 2) - and yes "egg shaped" are harder to repair vs a certain dent spot" (of course!) - if the repair doesn't go wrong on cast aluminum - cracks, etc). He recommended I just replace the two - not the "$7000 magnesium wheels" he told me he was working on - holy sh*t!



Was stunned the wheels were bent - as I have ton of side wall w/ 265/75/r16. SMH - bottom line is they are bent, no matter how it happened, & shake at high speeds - over time, will be much rougher on even tire wear, wheel bearings etc. So, replacements ordered - side note: When we ordered 4 black wheels for my wife's Outback from Tire Rack - 3 of the 4 came "egg shaped" - that was lot of fun back, and and forth. Needless to say, I will be roll testing these when they arrive before running them to the shop - making sure they didn't arrive that way as precaution - before I'm told I have bent wheels again.... look, I can't rule out hitting stuff (pot hole, curb, yada yada - have 35,000 on the truck ), but geeez you'd think I would know, bending two?

Of course, going down this rabbit hole of bent aluminum alloy wheels on YouTube and forums - I had no idea how common bent wheels are? Most rampant are w/ the "fashionable" low profile tires - they really don't handle potholes well - no cushion. Mine are the opposite in terms of side wall, and I have the same issue for cripe's sakes .

I read these wheels are cast aluminum (never paid attention to different types before) are not as strong as next step up "flow formed" - true? Interesting, many of the TRD Pro knock off wheels advertise they are "flow formed".
I can't help but know look a bit sideways at the strength of these wheels?
Other cynical folks like on sports cars forums say, "Its' a matter of when not if on bent aluminum alloy wheels"

 

Everyone's talking about saving 3 or 4 lbs per wheel and I've got 33" tires that are over 20lbs heavier (each) than the stock kevlars what were the weight of the stock trd off road tires again? 30 or 40ish?