Title change...it lives...it lives!

I just did both. Threw an alternator in, too for good measure. Functioning original is now my spare. 180k.

 

hit the starter

 

alternator

 

If his truck goes completely dead, what makes you think it's the alternator or starter? I would think you could remove both of them and still get lights and such.

 

A bad alternator won't cause a no crank.

It's a main power or ground losing connection, we need a test light or meter to see where we're losing power.

Do you have a picture of your battery cables?

 

Cables are snug and clean

 

u have a duralsast battery, take it back and get a new one

 

Not even the dome light works?
Not even if it's set to ON manually?

Grab a test light and figure out where you do/don't have power.

 

Manual so Clutch start switch check its working or jump/bypass it to see.

 

I bet it's this mess right here, those things can look good but they are terrible about losing connection.

 

I see extra wires and a "less than desirable" Negative terminal for the battery.

What extras do you have installed on the truck?

 

Me and you both thought the same thing at the same time......

 

How old is that battery? Looks grungy.

 

If the battery is checking good, you should at least get some accessories to power up. I don't think it's battery or alternator.
Although, I have nothing else to offer at this time.

 

I had an extremely similar thing happen to me recently and all I could figure out was a diminished battery reserve capacity.

Turn the key you get one click and no crank and all electronics stop working even door locks. Good starter good alternator and battery didn't show low voltage.

Put in a fresh batt and I think it solved the issue.

 

I slapped a new battery in it. It still didn't want to start. Got it to roll start....drove a mile turned on the headlights and it immediately died again.

One thing I notice is that even when the relay or what appears to be a timed circuit breaker is taking it's time to reset If I put the key in the ignition I get a very faint low oil pressure light with the key in the on position. When it appears like it wants to work again it all of a sudden (along with all the other dash lights gets nice and bright again.

I was supposed to spend the day packing my moving truck....not messing around trying to get my stupid pickup back to the house. Fortunately I was planning on towing it to Maryland tomorrow anyway.

 

Electrical gremlins somewhere. Start by doing inventory of aftermarket parts. Check all stock grounds. Check for parasitic electrical draw.

 

Got a friend to pull me home in the expedition.

All electrical parts are stock. The truck has run like a champ the past two weeks.


Oh....and I lost my wallet

 

The extras you see are for a trailer harness, an HF radio, and for an HF HPA. All three have independent fuses less than six inches from the battery terminal.

When this started happening I immediately removed all three inline fuses to try and rule those out. The issue still persists.

 

Do any of the accessories attached to your battery work at all since you’ve been having this issue? I’m assuming you’ve grounded them to body grounds in the vehicle?