Issue with CV axle

Long time lurker here, have learned a wealth of information so let me just say thanks to all the knowledgeable people here.

I'm having an issue with re-installing the outside of my CV axle all the way into my new hub assembly in the steering knuckle. I've had it apart 3 separate times now just trying to get it to seat all the way, but to no avail. I cleaned the splines very well with a wire brush, very light coat of grease on splines. I tried jacking up the lower control arm to straighten the CV but didn't help. I hit the axle nut with the impact, axle nut is torqued properly and the cotter pin is in. So I guess I'm wondering if this is even something to be concerned about? the gap is probably an 1/8" max but I think it's less than that maybe closer to 1/16". Obviously it's not right, but I'm kind of at a loss as to what more I can do. Any help is much appreciated, thanks!

 

If the METAL portion of the inner and outer seals are not rubbing together and "grinding". Call it good.
You're only going to get it to seat so far. And the chances an after market seal fits CORRECTLY are slim to none.

For anyone else reading this. I recommend using OEM seals. I been there, done that. I had to make stuff "fit", that didn't fit.

Again, Not grinding/rubbing. Call it good.
(Spin the front wheel. You'll hear it rub, if it does)

 

Thanks for your response. There was a slight gap between the metal rings but I tapped it down so the metal rings were engaging each other but now I'm left with this very slight gap between the collar on the CV and dust seal. The seal on the CV is a brand new OEM seal but the seal in the knuckle is a brand new Timken seal. Could that be the issue? I haven't started the other side yet, if I need to get an OEM seal I guess I could do that for the other side and see how that works. The Timken seal looked pretty much identical to the OEM that came out, and I haven't heard of anyone having issues with that Timken seal, but I'm definitely not a pro so I wouldn't know any better personally. Noted for the future to use OEM seals!

 

As long as the rubber portions in the seal are “meeting” and creating a seal. I think it will be fine.

The seal on the cv turns inside the seal on the spindle. As long as they are are “sealed”. I wouldn’t worry about it.

 

That's pretty much the conclusion I had come to as well, but wanted to check in here to see if I was missing something or doing something stupid. I'm a bit of a perfectionist so I'm not happy about it but hopefully it will hold up ok. Thanks for your responses I appreciate it.

 

My only concern would be the wheel bearing coming loose. The cv axle kind of holds it together. That and dirt getting inside there.

Is that an oem cv axle? Threads of the cv axle damaged?

 

I think it's just a poor fitting seal.
The CV should bottom out on the backside of the bearing. And hold it together, like you said.
He could remove the axle nut and push the CV in some, then put the nut back on a little, an grab the nut and pull out on the CV.
You should hear/feel it "bottom out". Or at least that's what I do.

 

Yes it’s the OEM CV. I’m 95% sure the threads are good, I don’t know how they would have gotten damaged I’m pretty careful.

 

The second or third time reassembling it I put the nut on and used a pry bar carefully behind the nut to try to pull it out further and it just really doesn’t seem to want to go any further. I’m getting ready to go on a long road trip in a couple of weeks and I still need to do the other side. Now I’m paranoid this is not put together properly. I wonder if I should try a new OEM seal as much as I hate to do it all over again. Or should I remove both seals and see if I can get a measurement with no seals on? Maybe a slide hammer on the CV axle to try and force it outward?

 

You would know if threads are bad. Nut would be hard to thread on. I ask this because I had a Tacoma cv axle nut that was rough going on. When it was torqued to spec (173 ft lbs) it didn't actually tighten properly. The wheel bearing was blown out the next week after driving like that. Then we had to do a new cv axle and a wheel bearing.

I'd say if you are good after a week or 2 of driving like that, it should be fine.

 

It was a little hard to go on when it was going past the hole for the cotter pin but freed up well when it got past the hole. Were you able to get the cotter pin and retaining “crown” on the nut ok with it not fully seated? I definitely do not want to have to deal with a new wheel bearing. Trouble is I don’t really have time to wait and see because I’m leaving for a long road trip in less than two weeks. I definitely don’t want to have to replace this bearing again as I ordered them pre-assembled from someone on here.

 

Yeah it tightened down with resistance. Cotter pin and lock washer all went on like normal.

You should be able to thread the nut all the way on by hand, bottoming out on the outer hub face. If there is resistance along the way, I would suggest a new CV axle.

Once the nut bottoms out by hand, it's normal to have to use the impact to draw the cv further into the wheel bearing about an 1/8 of an inch. I watch the backside as I'm drawing in the CV. Once it bottoms out and cv stops pulling in I stop. Then tighten with a torque wrench 173 ft lbs.

 

Yeah that's pretty much exactly how it went, I was watching it from behind and the impact drew it in a bit but all 3 times that's as far as it went. Ok well thanks for the help, I guess I'm going to get a couple of new CVs (120,000 on the truck) and a couple of OEM seals for the knuckle and see what that gets me. I'm worried about leaving it like it is, especially with a long camping trip ahead. Hopefully I can find the parts quickly. Thanks again.

 

If you lived close to me. I'd let you have a NAPA HD for cheap.
I bought it brand new when I did my ECGS bushing. My OEM axle looked fine.
Never used the NAPA. It's been sitting here for 3 years now.