Garage Door Remote Mod

I wonder if I can do the same with my Linear opener without too much trouble

 

That is a dual function swich. The top is for the drivers side footwell lights (left foot) and the bottom is for the passenger side footwell lights. (right foot). After these were installed, I added footwell lights under both back seats too and they are now wired to the passenger side switch.

 

My 2017 SR5 does not have this

 

sweet! nice touch

 

If you dont meind me asking, what did you use for the footwell lights and where did you get that switch? thx in advance

 

These are the lights I used.

BRIGHTEST Light Bolt - Flush Mount 12V LED Light for Bumper, Grille, Cars Interior, Dash, Ambient Lighting, Motorcycle w/SLEEK Aluminum Housing & Screw Nut (11 mm Black, Cool White LED)

$10 Oznium BRIGHTEST Light Bolt - Flush Mount 12V LED Light for Bumper, Grille, Cars Interior, Dash, Ambient Lighting, Motorcycle w/SLEEK Aluminum Housing & Screw Nut (11 mm Black, Cool White LED)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ADHUXGU

The swich I had custom made on Amazon. I sized the images of the feet, uploaded them and customized the button selection.

 

Right on, thx man! very nice setup... air on board has nice switches that I use. They have the light blue to match the tacoma's int lights

 

Thank you for putting this write up together...installed mine a few weeks ago and works like a champ...plus it also provides at least 100 cool factor points!

 

I agree... I think I may re-route mine to the over head console as well. I think its easier access to it and looks a lot better there

 

I have the same style and brand clicker as you and am getting ready to do this mod and am trying to confirm if I need to solder my wire below the circle like it appears on your or right on top of it like you did on the right hand side.

 

Hey All,
I just got my second remote in, so if I bugger the other one up I’m not left without a way to operate the garage door. And I also received my switch from Air On Board, and it shows a relay and 1amp diode, relay with 86, 87, 85, and 30 on it as contact points, as well as a fuse. Can ANYONE help me out an tell me if 1) does anyone sell the relay, diode, and fuse needed? 2) if not can someone point me to where I can get these items, and lastly 3) which ever option I have received said parts, can someone step me through where and how to connect these items together. Also, I thought I read where someone installed there’s minus the battery so it would not have to be exchanged once it went low or dead. I do know that the 12v has to be stepped down so as to not overload the remote because it operates on 3v. But the lights of the switch runs off the 12v system of the truck. Anyway, I’d really appreciate any help I could get, thanks..
Rip

 

IMO, I think you are making this more complicated than needed. The battery in the remote will last for several months, if not a few years.
As far as needing the relay, all you need to do is solder a wire to the 2x contacts in the remote and run the wire to the switch. The switch just needs to close the contacts temporarily. No power required for this. Only power needed is to illuminate the LED in the switch.

 

If you want to use truck power, buy a 12V garage remote. You don't have to use resistors or anything. I went thru all the thoughts you are going thru and just kept it simple. Mine is hard wired to ignition sourced power and then the buttons on my overhead switch panel.

 

Then why does it say use a relay and wire it connecting to this point (XX) and this wire to (XX) on the relay and the other two to (XX & XX) not to mention it says you need to wire a diode in.? I wished I could watch a video of someone stepping through this….

 

I’d like to help you… where does it say “relay” and “diode” and stuff? Tried to do a quick check from your post and from the original post. Should be as easy as what @oostroma states above in his post.

 

I'm loving this mod. Just finished mine up recently.

 

The switch is just mirroring the button function on the remote.

 

I thought I’d chime in to say that while I’ve since upgraded my mirror to a homelink one, I still use my push button garage door buttons because they feel better to press. I use liftmaster 850LM’s to have compatibility with different branded openers at 3 different locations.

Wish I had small switch blanks in my 2 other trucks, stuck using the homelink mirrors for them.

 

Okay, I have a remote that has no underside with any circuitry at all, it’s all on one side, so I would connect one wire to the front side and the other wire to the back side circuit. Just basically making that switch mute and the new switch I’m installing the one true switch. But I have 2 questions:
1) can you note make a jumper or connect the wire for the light to another switch beside it on the “lighting” wire without having to install a dedicated power wire and add a diode to step down the voltage?
2) is there a way to make the fob wired into the truck’s power instead of relying on a battery that would eventually have to be replaced?

 

Yes that is true, but the lighting circuit and wiring to eliminate the battery would be advantageous to those with little electronic backgrounds.