Looking for a recommendation for a spot to perform a Regear in Los Angeles

Thinking about regearing my rig.

Who here has had a shop do it in the LA area?
I am a bike mechanic by trade and know that not all shops operate at the same level.
A good referral would be much appreciated!

Also while in the topic,

ive got a 21 OR 6M/T. Running 33s. (285/75/16) with a leer shell and some armor. Not too much weight.
I know the MTs are already geared close to the 4.88, but would you guys recommend 4.88 or 5.29?

And what should a good install run me cost wise?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/o-shoots-group-buy-promo.838746/

In Riverside.

 

@lit_taco4x4 has a spot. Shoot him a dm

 

@Superdave1.0

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/superdaves-lift-installs-mechanic-service.682299/

 

find a shop that has done it on 3rd gen's before

 

I'm on 285/75R17 (34") tires w/4.88 gears, I find it's about dead-on perfect. I drove on the stock tires for a couple months after getting the 4.88s... I was glad to finally have the 285s on it (shifts were very short otherwise). I would imagine 33s on 5.29s would be similar (5.29 seems better-suited for 35-37" tires on a manual).

As for a shop recommendation... it's been decades since I've had a shop do a gear install (I do my own) so I don't have any current recommendations. Long ago, there was a shop called Hoopers in Sun Valley that used to be decent (if a bit $$$). Not sure if they're still decent or even if still there. I'd lean toward one of the more-current shop rec's already posted above and go from there.

 

Those guys ripped and broke the tabs on my fender flare and of course never told me and when I called them out they blamed their “contractor” told me they would make it right and blocked me and ghosted me I would be very careful if you use them, if they lied about that if they fuck up your diff they’re sure as shit going to hide it from you

 

I would recommend 5.29 for 33” or larger personally. It revs a bit higher than stock but not really in any detrimental manner and it certainly performs better than stock. I have run 5.29s on 31”, 32”, and 32.5”. I’m back on 32’s and personally I wouldn’t change anything.

When factoring the extra weight, leverage, and rolling resistance of 33’s, going with 4.88 puts you pretty much back to stock. Slightly higher rpm than bone stock, but performance will be at about stock level. If you’re happy with that, the. 4.88. If you want more, 5.29.

One thing to keep in mind is very few who went 5.29 regretted it, even on a manual. Plenty who stopped at 4.88 did regret it. Plenty also are happy with their 4.88, but they also didn’t try 5.29. Those who went to 5.29 and are happy don’r need to try out 4.88 to know that they made the right choice because they went past 4.88 and don’t wish for less change than they got.

It’s really not a dramatic difference between the two, it’s only an additional 8.4%. At highway speed it’s about 200 rpm.

 

I'm sure 5.29 is awesome offroad. Indeed there are times I do wish for lower gears while offroad, however my intention is to remedy that with a crawl box (a.k.a underdrive unit).