Help with Suspension

Hey TW fam, I have been spending a lot of time reading posts on How-to’s and other threads and trying to wrap my head around what I’m trying to accomplish. I don’t wrench on the truck too often, but am confident I can get this particular job done myself with a couple of friends.


Here’s the facts:

2009 DCLB 4x4 Sport w/ an ARE MX shell w/ 138k mi

It’s my DD and do some off-roading and camping trips about 5 or 6 times a year. Rear sags BAD, especially when I have all my gear in the back.

Considering the mileage, I’m assuming all my components (LCA’s/UCA’s) are worn out, as the ride is really rough.

I’m trying to be as economical as I can and give me a setup that’ll last my well in the future without constantly replacing components.


I would like lift it 2” up front and replace the rear shocks and leaf springs. New UCA’s and LCA’s.


I have several other maintenance things I need to take care of.


Rear drum brakes

Driver side CV axle


I have budgeted $5k to get it all done, which is possible if I do the work myself, but the LCA issue is bigger than I assumed and could pose a massive hit to the pocketbook.


I’m looking at a package deal from shocksurplus.com:


Front:

OME 2885 springs with Billy 5100’s , set at factory height.

Rear: Icon RXT set on the 2nd stage and Billy 5125(?) which should take care of my sagging problem. This setup will run me around $1600 or so.


For the UCAs I’ve chosen to go with Freedom off-road’s. These are $370.


Here’s my questions:

1: Based on what I’ve gathered , if I’m using the OME 2885’s (2”) that will give me the lift I want and then keep the 5100’s at factory. Is this correct?


2: Icon’s website says the RXT multi-rate leaf springs, setup in Option 2 would give me 2.25” of lift height (unloaded) but with 200lbs of weight (my shell is 200lbs) it’ll sit at 1.75”

Or at Option 3, it’ll sit at 2.625” unloaded or 1.125” with 600lbs, which if all my camping gear and family stuff is on the back, I would definitely hit.

Also, the Bilstein 5125 are for 2”-4” in the rear.

I don’t mind having the rake, just as long as I’m not sagging, fully loaded.

Do I put the RXT at Option 3 for the anticipated part-time weight when I go on trips or Option 2 ?


If I go with Option 2 do I just get Bilstein 5100’s (0-2”) or do I put the Bilstein 5125 (2”-4”)


If I go with Option 3, I would go with the Bilstein 5125’s. Do I need longer rear brake lines? Is there anything else I need to think about?


3: The LCA debate. My local Toyota dealership quoted me about $1000 for both LCAs, not installed. I was thinking about finding a OEM set at a junkyard and replacing the bushings and ball joints. I’m assuming I could find a shop to press the ball joints for me, then install myself? This seems to be the most economical/ fastest way of doing this.


I’m getting ready to pull the trigger and move forward. It’s time to organize and execute. Thanks for any advice.

 

Whoa there. From reading most of your post, it looks like you’re planning to replace quite a bit that may not need to be touched. The UCAs and LCAs aren’t necessarily trashed by 138k miles…

 

Like Jason said...I'd start with the rear leafs...are you LOOKING to lift it or just wanting better springs for your gear?

 

Thanks for bringing me down to earth. I’ve gone down the TW rabbit hole and I’m mentally exhausted.

 

Everything is original, except the rear TSB. The shocks definitely need to be replaced all around.
I was initially going to do an AAL, but determined it wouldn’t be enough to solve my ass from dragging. I want to give it a bump in height, but also want better springs for my gear.

 

I’ll send you back down the rabbit hole.

if your weight is that variable, maybe airbags would be a better solution rather than a leaf pack designed for your max weight and when empty, ride super high and rough.

 

I agree with the sentiment that there may not be a need to replace the UCAs and LCAs. Unless your ball joints are shot, I'd leave well enough alone. For reference, my 2nd gen had 200k on the original ball joints, and they were still in very good shape.

With the cap, if you don't have skids, sliders and a steel rear bumper, the heavier leaf pack may be a bit stiff. I have those and a 2nd battery in the back, and the ride is firm with heavier leafs. I like the suggestion to go RST option 2 with air bags in your situation.

Whatever your leaf pack is expected to lift the rear, I'd plan on adding that to the front. I think the Bilstein/OME will get you there.

 

Yeah, I’ve considered this option, might still be considering it. Do you have any personal experience with a setup like this? It would be nice to have a setup with onboard air.

 

I guess the first thing is figuring out if my ball joints (upper/lower) are in good shape, then go from there. I’m all for saving as much money as possible. Thanks for the input! Do you have any experience with airbags?

 

Go OME 884 or 885 / 5100 in front
5100 rear
New leaf pack ( I went general spring HD)
ECGS bushing and call it a day.

gave me 2” lift all around. I think I paid around $1500 for parts. Most recommend budget setup you’re gonna find, you can spend more or less on the leaf pack or do an AAL but I’d go full pack. This was on my 2013 TRD sport with 145k and it is a new truck now. No LCAs or UCAs needed for me, no vibes with that bushing

 

No experience with airbags, just familiar with what they do.

 

IMO. I’d start with replacing all the shocks. Then put Firestone airbags in the rear. May be all you need for the 5-6 times a year it’s loaded up. The basic airbag set up is about $400. Or you can put controller in cab or go wireless for about $800-1000.

 

TTX LCA's on RockAuto are $130ea.

5100 is a Dollar Tree shock.

 

I do not, but my Dad has had airbags on his 2005 ACLB with ~400lb camper, plus probably 200lb in interior buildout and gear.

He just uses a bicycle pump to adjust the airbags as the volume isn’t that much and it isn’t worth adding on board air in his case. I have driven his truck and a few PSI difference in the airbags makes a big difference in the rear end feeling stable on the highway.

If you were going off-road in HARD situations, airbags may be limiting and you may damage them, but it doesn’t sound like that’s the use case for you.

 

Thanks. Yeah, I sometimes do some rougher trails with a local group, but I’m not loaded down with a bunch of gear.

 

My rear is tired, so regardless it’s gotta be replaced and I don’t want to put a bandaid on it. Sounds like I need to take a better look at the LCAs and UCAs and go from there.

 

yea go with a leaf pack. I paid $550 for mine. I think it’s rated 500lbs over stock. It’s plenty rugged

 

lol. OP says he goes camping 5 times a year.. what’s he need a $4000 setup to accomplish that?

 

6112/5160 isn’t $4k