Show off your 3D printed parts

Probably an un-popular opinion but ditch the ender and get a P1P. The cost is obviously a hurdle, but it changed my 3D printing focus from equipment tinkering to design tweaking focus. The P1P was a game changer. Only had 2 major failed prints. both were my fault from a slicing setting standpoint. The ender is great for understanding fundamentals, the P1P is setup to almost eliminate the learning curve. The presets and material profiles are dialed in 95%+. An enclosed printer really creates a more consistent environment for real world daily use filaments. My biggest gripe about the Bambu is the AMS. It works great when using often. If machine sits idle for a month, filament tends to get brittle and breaks off in bowden feed tubes requiring AMS dis-assembly to clear. There are Hydra mods to improve but my work-around is manually retract filament prior to idle period, or cut-off lead filament before a print session. it prints 3x-4x as fast as my ender ever did.

 

Im right there with you. The problem seems to be multiple prints. Pei works fine for a few prints, but then breaks in and stops holding. The absolute best for asa is GR10. Problem there is, it's too good. The first few prints will pop off like a dream, but once it breaks in you have to start relying on tools to separate the part from the bed. I use that and glue stick as a release agent. Gotta apply it every 3-5 prints though. couple of weeks ago I had it take a chuck out after almost a year of using it. That said not sure if they have it for enders. I buy sheets and cut it down. And yeah, ASA is a shitshow. took me a long time to get it right.

 

I have an X1C that dropped down to a 78% success rate for asa. That's with adding a heater to the chamber. I just fixed the hotend, again, hopefully I fixed it or i might throw this thing down a flight of stairs... That said though, they're the closest to being a consumer grade printer right now.

 

I'm pretty novice, but also looks like you might be under extruding? I print at like 103% flow and its helped me a ton when I was having issues...





Oh.. and I glue stick and blue tape....... too lazy to fix my real issues on a clone of a clone cheap ass 5 year old printer haha

 

Wasn't seeing the full pictures on my phone. If your bed is just clip on, there are some sheets on @mazon that should work great. I've had asa prints so stuck to g10/fr4 that I had to chisel them off with a drywall knife, and the plates are so hard that it didn't even damage them when I did that. Mine is glued and screwed down though, being able to flex it woulda probably removed them much easier, though I don't guarantee that. I use glue sticks as a release layer. I used 1/16" thick. With just the binder clamps you might go a size or 2 up to fight warpage. These

$10 G10 FR4 Sheet Fiberglass Panel, 3D Printer Build Surface Plate Semi-Flexible Sheet, 235x235x1.5mm Yellow

AMAZON sheets should be exactly the same as what I got, though full disclosure, I got mine from mcmaster, but only because they were the only place with big enough sheets. This stuff is HARD to cut, so i'd get the right size. The sheet on there now has lasted 2 1/2 years, and is still going strong.

 

I have a P1S that I am printing ASA on.

It took me a bit to get the ASA printing correctly, but with what I am working with what I do is the following.

I heat the chamber for about 20-30 minutes using the bed without fans turned on before I start printing. I also have a towel that I put over the door to keep the heat in to ensure that the chamber stays heated.

I use a Print Profile in my slicer that is used only for ASA printing that keeps the fans off for a certain amount. When printing ASA, if it is something that has a larger flat surface touching the print bed, I use a pretty good size brim to help with warping.

When printing is finished, I leave the print on the bed for at least 40 minutes, and I let printing cool down with the exhaust fan at about 10% to prevent the print from cooling down too quickly.

EDIT: If printing ASA, I be sure to put my ASA filament in my filament dryer for at least 10 hours before using it, regardless of it being my filament dry storage.

 

If the parts you are printing don't need to be impact resistant, consider using PETG. It's nearly as strong as ABS, UV resistant, heat resistant, and sticks easily to PEI. I mainly print in PETG.

 

It's for inside a car so the heat/UV resistance is what I need the most

 

PETG works just fine. I've been using my 1" ball mount in my truck that's sat through 100F (outside temp). The truck is 100% outside since I have no garage.

 

My ball mount

 

Well I let the ugly print with tape complete last night. The ugly section looks to have cleaned up after about 1mm(layer 5?). Does this suggest that I should run cooling sooner, keeping in mind no fan to get the first layers to stick?

My settings are 0.20 layer height, 245C extruder, 100C bed, 0% initial fan, and regular(50%) fan speed after layer 5.

 

I'm no expert, but from what you're posting, it would seem that having good layers after the fan kicks on would indicate cooling is needed after the first couple layers. I've never printed ASA, so I'm not sure. Do you print inside an enclosure? I've read that's a must for ASA. When I had issues with parts warping, I printed with a brim. I would suggest trying that and letting the fan come on sooner.

 

I do print in an enclosure, and do print everything with brim. Made some design changes after test fitting and the 2nd print is infinitely better.. The only difference is the garage heat is set to 80F.

 

A lot of things could be happening with that bottom layer. If your bed leveling is inductive, it wont detect the blue tape, and would squish the first couple of layers. It could also be heat retention, but I would try lowering the bed temp before I would ramp up the cooling fans. As for garage temp, the higher the better. Ideally ASA wants a chamber temp of 80C (176F). 60C is where is starts to show promise for reliability and repeatability. 70C is where I run my big printer, but that will cause problems with a lot of air cooled hotends.

 

I think the enclosure(garage) temp was the ticket. Now where can I get a small desk heater that has a duct or one can be made for it to plumb to the enclosure so my garage can be bareable again.

 

What kind of insulation does your enclosure have? I would think that a properly insulated enclosure would negate the need for an external heat source.

 

Whats the insulating factor of clear acrylic? So basically no insulation, I was of the understanding that it was more to keep a/c and drafts off the print rather than actually hold high temps. I like being able to see the print and any failures, without opening the door, so I might line it with some of that foil bubble wrap but leave windows. I think a small PTC heater might still be a good idea to lower the preheating time with just the bed heating.

 

How is the auxbeam mount mounted to the roof? You have the STL posted anywhere or for sale? I want to install mine but dont want to give up the sunglasses holder

 

It's just bolted to the headliner haha
That's my old setup obviously.

 

You have any more info on this?