For sale: 2003 reg cab, 4x4, manual Tacoma SR5 on clean frame

2003 Regular cab Tacoma:

• Southern truck on clean recall frame w/ light surface rust (pictured)
• Manual trans.
• 4x4
• 3rz-fe (2.7L 4 cyl.)
• SR5
• 6-lug
• Bucket seats
• 33" Dextero AT tires, like-new
• 292,XXX miles
• Some body rust above rear passenger mudflap (in picture below) and bottom of driver door (pic below)
• Catalytic converter delete (prev. owner)
• Engine doesn't run, likely electrical (read below)
• AC blows hot
• Otherwise, other systems are fine
• Garage kept since it stopped running
• $5k obo, open to trades

This lovely Taco has been my project for a minute, and I don’t have the budget or motivation to see it through the way I know some folks on here would or could. I’d rather it go to somebody with the time, dime, and knowhow than let it sit in my garage. It's mostly stock. Only aftermarket stuff I can discern (all done by previous owner) are:

• Small body lift,
• New head unit w/ CD player
• 33” Dexteros
• Cat delete

I have replaced:

• Throttle position sensor
• Clutch position sensor
• Idle air controller
• Spark plugs and boots
• Remanufactured ECM

Body/frame: It was bought new in NY, but has lived in eastern Kentucky since getting a recall frame (to my knowledge, but can confirm later). Frame and mounts look great besides a little surface rust/scale. Some body rust on rear passenger quarter (including a hole) and bottom of driver door. The steelie wheels have a little surface rust too (pictured below).

Mechanical: I got a great deal on it, and it ran great for about a year as my DD. Then one winter day it would crank but stall out after a couple seconds of rough idle and white smoke.

No check engine lights. Battery was fine and basically brand new. Oil level was fine, no bubbles in coolant either. No leaks on the ground either. The gas wasn’t old and the fuel pump worked, so I checked fuses and relays. All were fine too.

I pulled the sparks and they got spark just fine, though they could use a change so I did (along with the boots). Same result: crank and no fire.

Tried again the next day and same results, but now with check engine lights. Code reader wouldn’t communicate with it. Neither would the next three I tried, including one I borrowed from O’Reilly’s.

So I pulled the ECM. Circuits to the IAC and TPS were blown, so I sent it off to get remanufactured. In the meantime (it took them a month to do it), I pulled the throttle body, IAC, and TPS. The latter read ohms through the roof so I replaced it. The IAC had a spider’s nest in it (lol) and it was grimy so I replaced it too. Also got the throttle body clean as a whistle while I was at it. The clutch position sensor was bad, so I went ahead and replaced that too. I also changed the oil since I figured uncombusted gas from trying to start it had likely run down into the pan.

A month or so later when the ECM came back, I tried again and got a similar result, only no white smoke and it ran a tiny bit better and a second or two longer before dying. The OBD reader still wouldn’t communicate either, so I figured it’s some sort of electrical fault or bad ground, maybe.

That’s when I kind of moved on from it, honestly. I disconnected the battery, siphoned the gas, and let it rest in my garage since last year.

I’m no electrician, can’t afford to hire one, and don’t feel like just shotgunning parts at it without codes to go by (esp. if the whole thing is electrical to begin with). My next step would be to replace the MAF (though it reads fine and wasn’t too dirty).

I’m sure this would be a breeze for plenty of folks on here to troubleshoot into a badass little DD. It sure was when I drove it. It could make a great trail or wood rig too.

I’m located in Lexington, Kentucky. If it’s something you’re interested in I’m happy to talk, via DM.

Other odds and ends:

• Parking brake cable frayed behind dash. I have the replacement part and plan to swap it out if sale isn't quick.
• AC also blows hot. I haven't checked for leaks or recharged it yet (though I have a bottle of refrigerant with pressure gauge to go with sale/trade). Heater, fan, and diverter all work great, though.
• Fuel door stays closed but is missing its spring.

More pics to come this weekend, with focus on frame. Feel free to request any specific shots you'd like.

 

More pics:

1.) showing slight rust on bottom of driver door.
2.) odo showing 292k